snozzle

Thanks for your input mate, much appreciated! Ill work on all the things you have mentioned over the next few weeks as they do make alot of sense Im not getting any overheating issues, never have, but cooler is always better!

Looks like the oil drain behind the head isnt working

My boost gauge is on the other side of the dash next to the A pillar.

Another update i should have posted a few days ago: After many issues trying to get one, the universe has finally said OK, you can now have a washer bottle/catch can unit..... Picked it up second hand off a forum member, the design of it is really good, has baffles inside the catch can side but i wasnt happy with the welds so i grinded them back to straight edges and painted the whole thing wrinkle black! Just gotta buy a little airfilter to go onto the side and shes done. Also now sporting a blue Tomei sticker on my timing cover for cooler engine temps and extra detonation protection!!

Shit I totally forgot to reply to your post mate. I think the main issue with gt35s on rb25/26s is the compressor surge you get at lowish rpm while under abit of load, ie corning out of a bend or uphill. I never get the issue on the street as its either full throttle or baby the car. On the track i noticed that whilst trying to control the throttle in 2nd gear around a particular uphill bend, the turbo was building more boost than it usually does at that rpm and i was hearing abit of compressor surge. Im thinking its pushing out more air than the engine wants to digest with the throttles half way closed. I believe this WILL result in premature failure of the turbo so before the car goes back out on track again ill have some anti surge slots drilled in As soon as i herd this noise I controlled the throttle in a way that it would stop occuring but this meant that my cornering speed had dropped also which i dont care about atm, it was only powercruise As for the damage due to the absense of a BOV when the throttle is 100% closed, im not a believer. Sorry Anywho.. I installed my oil pressure and oil temp sensors today, getting 6bar of oil pressure on a cold start 1100rpm. During hot idle im getting 2.2bar. When cruising at 2500rpm im getting 5bar so pretty happy with those readings While i was there installing the sensors i decided to remove my oil filter relocation mount to clean it, while i was tightening up the fittings into the housing itself the housing snapped :( FML - waiting on a new one to come from over east, lesson learnt! The old saying, dont touch it if it aint broke came to mind instantly haha Also got around to wrapping the loom near my strut tower in some high temp shielding as it looked like a major operation (not really im just lazy) . Ill have some pics up 2moro! Also thinking of installing a greddy radiator breather thingy i got lying around to get rid of the air bubbles while the car is running that the bleed screw fails to get rid of (or so they claim it does). Heres a link to what im talking about: http://www.greddy.co...d/rad-breather/ Just not sure where to plumb all the lines besides the obvious bleed screw near the FPR, somewhere in the rad hose and maybe even the coolant overflow tank? Anyone fitted one before to an rb26? Some tips would be nice! i just found this diagram that seems to make sense so might follow it

Stated in original post already, Location is Perth, WA. Delivery to anywhere in Australia is available.

Yeah i know! I grew tired of the lack in response and top end power although the mid-range wasnt too bad but now my car is making good power everywhere so im happy and not complaining If anyone has a gt35 vs -5 comparison on the same dyno please share!

Fair call, it is possible that something was wrong but im done thinking about it, the turbos were fine when they came off, the acuators were checked twice, correct preload, balanced while on dyno etc so im not sure what else could have been the issue. An interesting comparison would be between a pair of -5s to a GT35 setup. I didnt say 21psi is too far.. I Re-read what i wrote, i see how u mis-read that, my bad. I made 300awkw at 21psi (bleeding off to 18psi at redline) with my -7s. This being my personal experience, i am certain that if you want to hunt for the power level that the OP is after, they -7's will be pushed way beyond their effeciency range (too far). Hence why i said that -5's would be a better choice over -7s or -9s. All of my tuning ventures have been on 98ron fuel so forgive me for being more conservative than you eastern staters with e85. Yes im jelly that you have it on pump and we dont but we shall not go there

Im running a GT35 single on my stock rb26 with poncams, safe/conservative tune on 20psi is netting me 485hp at all 4 hubs. So thats around 450rwhp. Could push 1-2 more psi but im happy with the power! I was running a pair of -7s and i was struggling to make over 300kw without pushing the turbos too far (21psi) on the same dyno. Only difference was stock cams. Single > -7s. Cant comment on -9s but im told they are quite similar in terms of top end power. I rather make a comfy 450rwhp on a big single as compared running a pair of -7s or -9s to their limit to reach 450rwhp, which i doubt u will get anyway. Also, the single setups are easier to work on. Oh and im getting better response with the GT35 as compared to my -7s too The only reason why I would consider sticking to twins is to retain the "stock" look but tbh, the benefits of the single outweigh the want for the stock look, big time. Cue, single vs twin debate....

I can do them for $1550 delivered without the Garrett 7psi actuators but i prefer to not separate them champ.

Still for sale guys.

still available!

you will need either a pair of -5s or a GT35 single at a minimum to get that power

Ive had no issues without running a BOV and i know of a few other GTR owners running to4z without a BOV aswell and they arent havent any issues. Id be looking at your oil supply line and also remove and inspect the restrictor inside the turbo for any carbon build up as that will limit oil flow into the turbo and cause the bearing to wear out. Ive inspected the turbo today actually and it feels like new still

Already ruled out the TPS, Map sensor voltages are consistent with eachother but im not sure if they would be causing it as car drives fine on boost? I havent looked at what the ignition timing is doing when the popping happens but even if it is retarding, what does that imply? Yeah whenever i touch the accelerator it does that popping like you said but it never did it if my foot was off the accelerator, but now its doing it when my foot is off which is why im concerned While the popping is occuring the TPS is 0.38-0.40v and it isnt moving about which would explain the popping.. but its not

Nope, stays on 80degress

Not running oxygen sensors, was tuned without them. As i said the issue started today, before today it was fine so Im sure theres some gremlin somewhere im just stumped as to where to look..

Hey all, Yesterday my car developed a rather strange issue whilst i was driving, i noticed that on deceleration in any gear id hear a pop in the exhaust every a few seconds. At the same time that this pop is occuring im seeing the inj duty rise from 0% to 3% for a split second. Thought it might be my TPS, checked the voltages and its sitting on 0.38v the whole time and before i completely ruled out the TPS i replaced it with another one and the issue was still there. Another problem started shortly after that where I would stop at the traffic lights and my idle would drop to 500rpm or so then rise to 1000rpm again and then cycle through this about 2-3 times before it would finally stabilise and idle properly. The car drives fine when the throttle is open, still makes great power and my ignition has no issues whilst on boost, the only issues are when the throttles are closed the ECU seems to be on cocaine? Not sure if this will help but the idle stabilisation issue starts to go away after 15minutes of driving, Car is going to my tuner tomorrow to see what he can sus out but I thought id gather somo info of my own to save my tuner from wasting his time as hes quite busy! Anyone got any idea what the cause of this is ? I hope its not my ECU spitting the dummy on me !!! Thanks oz

Cheers Richard! Good to see your keeping in touch . eat_me: Thanks mate but I'm not running a BOV. Its compressor surge.

Do you still have this? I bookmarked this incase my TPS played up again and I think it is..... will confirm in a few days though

I was suprised sunday was pretty much dead too.. Hop onto antilag forums and sign up for the antilag time attack night mate

Thanks mate.

Nismoid, I am still waiting for a reply from you.

haha loved the vids Rich! I also noticed the problem you had getting into 3rd that you told me about! That must really grind your gears Are you going to be at work tomorrow? Tried fitting the catch can but it seems i need to mod the bracket but ill see what you have to say first before i go cutting anything lol

Haha I understand your paranoia, i went through such a phase but me and my donk have developed abit of trust over the years and im revving the stock motor to 8000 without sitting on limiter for more than half a second and shes happy Lol at putting on the fake mullet, priceless!