SootyR32

Ta, that's got it!

Sorry to be a pain mate but I've downloaded it 3 times and it keeps saying that the zipped file is corrupted.

Ta mate, I think it will come in very handy. You should copyright it!

Now that seems like some fairly conclusive stuff. Thanks. As for searching, I always do a search before asking anything and I couldn't find a thing on it. Ronin, that calculator seems prettu handy, how long did all that take to work out?

Well the ones I have are crap, lol. I was originally thinking of just getting R33 GTR rims and brakes and fitting the whole lot.

Hmmm, OK then. Anyway, I suppose if I just tell a supplier that they are for an R32 GTR then they should be able to get me the right ones. Thanks for the help .

Are you sure? Try sticking a GTS-T wheel on a GTR, the difference seems a lot greater than that.

Thanks guys, I'll check that site out and start looking for the right wheels!

Anyone?

I've had a quick look around the forums but can't find exactly what I am looking for. First, what is the offset for the wheels on an R32 GTR? I desperately need 17" or 18" but I keep getting different stories about what wheels will fit. Also, does anyone know where I can pick up a reasonable front bar for a 32 GTR? I have been searching for months and I can find a ton of GTR bars for GTS-T's but try finding one for an actual GTR! Any help appreciated.

It measures the amount of torque, as a percentage, that is going to the front wheels. You will often see it jump up and down between 0 and 10 but you aren't having fun until it nears 50. Unfortunately, by the time it nears 50, you are going to have trouble finding the time to watch it.

The Wolf is certainly a lot more detailed than a PFC.

I am having the exact same problem with my Wolf in my R32 GTR.

Will do. Didn't get a chance to do it last night, was out on the Wolf trying to learn my way around it. It has every option you could want but seems a bit more complicated than most.

Got fluid but I'll try bleeding it. Thanks heaps for the tip.

I hope this isn't a common question as I have used the search feature but to no avail. I have just finished my rebuild and the only real differences is that I've used a Nismo N1 block and Wiseco 88mm forged pistons. I had some head work done but basically the enigine is still stcok specs. Anyway, it runs great, though I need to get to grips with how to tune the Wolf 3D, but my problem is that the car is running in 2WD. I've checked all the fuses, wiring etc and all seems to be OK. I've put fresh oil in the diffs and all that stuff as well. Could the Wolf have something to do with it? Any help would be hugely appreciated.

That's where I'm getting the settings from, the r32 workshop manual. I suppose I should have replaced the rod bolts but 'meh', they'll do. It's nothing to do with being a tight arse (hell, I've spent 12 grand on just engine parts not including turbos), it was more to do with couldn't be arsed.

1. Can the head Bolts be reused ? Yes 2. Can the Con Rod bolts be reused ? both are in good condition though. Yes 3. How do you start tightening the head bolts? he means do you start from the center bolts then back to fwd or what is the best way, coz again he works with ferraries and its his first time to work with the RB26 enigine. Middle, then fwd, back, fwd, etc till you reach the outer bolts 4. Head bolts torque Sorry, just reread your first question in this thread. Those settings I gave you are for the head bolts. 5. Main bearings torque 6. Con Rod bearings 7. Cam shaft caps 8. Flywheel torque I will post these later today, I don't have them at hand.

Well, at first I'm hoping (after running it in) for around 250 but I'll replace the turbos, injectors and fuel pump before I start trying to get it back to what it was (320) and higher. Would love to see around 400rwkw by the time I finish.

Not at the moment. It's still sitting on the engine stand. Hopefully drop it in this weekend and tune it during next week. As for now my turbos and cams are still stock. I've done the rebuild first (was sort of forced to, stuffed the last block) and will then add some meaty cams and bigger turbos. One thing for sure, it will be tuned very much on the safe side at first and then I'll try and clock up some quick kays at low boost to run it in. Will get back to you once I start trying to milk some power. I was running 320rwkw but that was on very high boost. How the standard turbos didn't shit themselves I'll never know.

I assume they are the same for any RB26? I've just rebuilt mine using 88mm pistons as well and can give you the torque settings we used, though mine's an R32. Tighten to 29 Nm Tighten to 108 Nm Then loosen all bolts completely Tighten all to 29 Nm again Finally tigten all to somewhere between 103 to 113

It was just under 4 grand, though I think the retail is around $5000.

Loads better. Even after the rebore its got heaps more meat than a standard block. Plus it has more finning on the block itself. I didn't get a full N1, just the bare block. I have reused my own oil/water pumps, etc.

Hehe, the quintisential GTR.

Now I just have to drop it in. It's taken 10 months for various reasons, one of those being cash. Anyway, off the top of my head, here's the build: Nismo N1 block, brand new from Japan, bored to 88mm Wiseco Forged Pistons, 88mm Standard crank Standard rods shotpeened and balanced race valves and springs (can't remember brand) 1.6mm 3 layer Metal Head Gasket (once again, can't remember the brand but same as used in NASCAR) Black metal bearings, meant to be 10 to 20% stronger (again, the brand escapes me but Larry perkins uses them) Head ported and ground Cams still stock but will be replaced soon, as for the turbo's WOLF 3D VER. 4 ECU Labour has been free except for the porting and boring, yet it has still set me back around $12,000 so far. Hopefully we'll drop it in this weekend. Oh, by the way, brand new Exceedy 3-puck race clutch as well. Also, as I used a stand alone head gasket, I have a standard head gasket for sale which came with the full RB26 gasket kit.