jangles

what did you go with?

Bump!

Fuel set sold, fpr and rail sold. everything else still available!

.82 should easily get your power goal.. or switch to a smaller more responsive turbo as stated

perfection takes time

regular M11 bolts can handle 600hp, so 'normal' arp studs will be fine, unless youre aiming for 40psi, then there are L19 ARP studs, but i really think thats overkill. id be looking at the RIPS gear personally, not to say that there is anything wrong with youre choice

pm sent

well the manifold fits a RB26, the turbo and wastegate fit the manifold, i would of assumed that its for a RB26. It all fits a RB26, so anything that is the same as 26 it will fit also. cheers

and a very nice set of mufflers they are!!

you know you want to rob...

12mm RB26 head studs are not required, RIPS retain the standard size in their builds, leaving more meat in the block. if you contact ROB from RIPS he can sell you, 4wd adaptor,pickup and sump

Ive got my unused turbo setup for sale. items are new, have been in storage but no longer using them. located in TAS, willing to post at buyers expense 1: .81 A/R TO4Z, surge slotted. good response on a 3l, same spec has made 450+rwkw oil and water lines included. $2600 2: Split Pulse 6boost manifold, T4 flange, suit RB26, vband wastegate. $1300 3: Turbosmart 48mm wastegate $700 4: Greddy water pump and PS pump pulleys $350 5: TOMEI adjustable cam gears $450

get an aftermarket oil pressure guage, pretty important guage to have

1. RB25det gearbox is the best bolt up option (anything else i.e. RB20det box wont last) 2. take out diff and get RB26 sump modified to suit RWD application 3. 350hp is done with stock setup

firstly, im not your mate, secondly, this is straight out of your thread,a post of yours i edited for you that was completely ignored... QUOTE (XxNinjaxX @ 10 Nov 2010, 02:01 AM) i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least? what im thinking now: adjustible cam gears gates timing belt poncams standard rods (recon'd) standard pistons (new with new rings)could get forged for similar price?? N1 oil pump (or standard?, probally no need for n1 at 300>350hp) N1 water pump (same as above, only effective at higher rpm anyway, opinons?) power fc s15 470cc injectors recon'd head ballanced bottom end ARP head studs ARP main studs ACL Main bearings ACL Rod bearings Lightened flywheel R34 turbo (op-6 rear housing, possible highflow)highflow can be up to 300kw IF you want to build it yourself for the experience, just get new rings and bearings, gaskets belt etc. unless youre going to search for some sort of power above what stock can produce for years then dont waste your money! stock bolts have been proven for FAR greater power levels many times. Once completed put it in your car, then you can Rebuild the current one with better parts seeing as you'll now you have more experience and know how because youve already built one...

nope, no i wouldnt

or if it was still for sale 4years later...

BUMP!!

be good to see the other view!! by looks of where the BOV is they have done it that way so there isnt any pipe work or cable front of the engine

same as i was thinking, the balancer would heat up before the bolt i reckon

better question would probably be, why would someone pay 30k for an OS giken 3l or 3.15 block compared to a RB3O bottem end. Its just a preferance, and generally, quality.A TOMEI 2.8 fits in the bay easier than a RB30 also. Not saying that there arent a lot of quality RB30's out there, but there certainly are cheaper ones and dearer ones... RB30 still a cheaper option either way.

last one for the year, any plans for next year yet?

if you can build it to suit E85 why not build it that way??

more boost??

but then we wouldnt get any awesome threads