jangles

yeah, can do them outright. but i see where youre coming from!! like going through a catalogue and picking that ONE!!

edited .......................de ja vu?

dont lewis engines offer this?

IF you want to build it yourself for the experience, just get new rings and bearings, gaskets belt etc. unless youre going to search for some sort of power above what stock can produce for years then dont waste your money! stock bolts have been proven for FAR greater power levels many times. Once completed put it in your car, then you can Rebuild the current one with better parts seeing as you'll now you have more experience and know how because youve already built one...

John drove this car, his wife has BMW's. if i was spending any sort of money this looks like its going to be id be looking at other R34 GTRs. definitely not one thats been used as a parts car, not to say it hasnt been put back to good condition...... http://www.autostyle.com.au/cars_engine.asp

pm sent forgot to mention that manifold is RB26

i certainly dont drive my gtr like i do my daily, so he is probably a smart man

~ 5000rpm, ~22psi these turbo choices just dont relate to response

no worries now you need a fuel system and turbo setup...

RB30 for torque

sort of black/brown tinge! but i think a nice clean white always looks good on any car with nice wheels

head work? what power??

theres the wheels and a colour toff

yes, please get these, they would have to be my favourite wheels

why not pink chocky? match your pink shirt

who you sending it with rob? rough price? spotted my gtr just collecting dust... STILL, the joy of waiting for engines to be built

those two are the type of colours that come to my mind when i think respray

bump

Project RB24

neither can i!! and if plans start going somewhere i know where there is a pretty nice kit and some sweet wheels

that would be for the extension only, then you have to weld it on etc. etc. hence the price if you were to click options it would of gave you a price of around $1500

by putting that bigger sump on you arent fixing the problem, which is what you stated in your first post, youre just bandaiding it, which is the same as 1l overfill on track days.. we were trying to help you out with the other little points in your original post you made... few other sumps, http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au/ http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category55_1.htm

you might be lucky, but it has been over 12 months.... and you prob should do a search for info like that

that they do, and some people run unopened engines making good power for a long time without any trouble. but seeing as this is about oil in the head i dont see the relevance... Oil drain/vent is a bandaid for a bigger issue, therefore not fixing the problem or the be all, end all. there are other ways to equalize the pressure venting the sump is one way, provided the correct restrictions and gallery mods were done. like its been outlined in the already linked oil control thread

that and the fact that they dont use them and dont have issues, maybe there should be one at the front of the head, so under heavy breaking all the oil rushes into the sump