Chris32

I have S14 castor rods in mine, I'm prettty sure S14/15 and R33/34 are the same Not sure about the hub, the non-turbo has different brakes compared to turbos, so may have different hubs also

Ok cool, how much lower do they sit than the stock seats?

Sorry to dig this up Looking at different options for replacing my driver seat in my 4dr. Can any of you guys confirm if the Bride rail / Drift blade seat combo sits much lower than stock? I'm hoping to gain around 2cm clearance to fit with a helmet on

Dud AFM or CAS?

Any updates on the cause of failure Simon?

Problem with that, as mentioned above - the oil pressure is at its minimum while its idling, and the ECU is adding more fuel to get it up to temp quicker. Your way better just driving easily for the first 10 minutes and letting everything warm up together. In the GTT you've got the advantage of an oil temp gauge - halfway on the coolant Temp needle could be anything. 10 minutes of light driving see's my oil temp stable at 80* and then its ready for whatever Driveway ildling is pretty pointless, much like idling for minutes after you've stopped to cool your water cooled and oil fed turbo

See there is talk that United will be closing the refinery at Dalby due to government grant issues etc. Might be a few shortages coming

Been having a read of this thread - is there enough scope in stock RB25 NEO injectors to run e85 with the stock turbo?

Looking forward to seeing how they look on the car, one of my rims of choice!

I thought I read somewhere that they have a pressure sensor in the front seat for airbag deployment? Maybe it goes by the seatbelt sensor?

Back wheel bearing replaced for the third time, jeez I hope this one lasts! I think the passenger side tie rod bearing is worn, so will be doing this at some stage. No real changes, chucked some plastidip on the weather shields which looks quite good, and blacked out the skyline badge on the boot oo. General servicing. A fresh fill of Penrite Racing 10/40, new oil and air filter done. Replaced the oil drain plug with a magnetic item from gktech, quite impressed with it for the cost. Pretty mpressed with the cheapo rear tyres, they perform very well. Attended the annual Ben Simpson Memorial cruise a few weeks ago and gave it a good run through the hills with around 2000 other car enthusiasts, and the car went really well. Paint wise, I gave the car a going over with a clay bar and then gave it a good polish - came up mint. I've still got a few very light water stains on the roof, however being a daily its more than shiny enough. Attempted to restore the steering wheel too - and it came up well - until we had 2 weeks around 40 degrees and the paint cracked! Oh well, you live and learn On the wish list - a lower drivers seat so I can fit wearing a helmet, and bolt on turbo / injector upgrade Some updated pics -

Very tidy car, well done! Quick question with the seats, I've searched lots but can't find a answer - will the airbags work if you replace the front seats? I've always thought they had a sensor in the stock seats to activate the airbags in a crash?

Found these and scanned them in the other day, nice little bit of history back to the good 'ol days

Done

$16 to Perth via courier, I can PM you bank details

Yeah, I'd take $50, where about are you located mate?

Offers?

Offers?

In great used condition, don't need it anymore. Has cleaning oil and filter oil - if sending interstate I can use a road based courier so no worries with aerosols etc $65 for the lot, can ship interstate no worries - PM for cost

This is all packed up ready to go as well, due to a non payment I had last time I tried to sell it. Wrapped in bubble wrap and a sheet of corflute, so I'd happily send this to anywhere in Australia

Pretty sure this came from a group buy on here Just sitting in my shed so thought I'd move it on In good condition, happy to freight $65

Drivers side front guard from the 34? Do you know the paint code on the chassis id plate?

Ok, that makes sense. I can't feel any play from the bearing, it's like the whole hub/arm has a slight play in it. At least I'm 99% sure it's not the wheel bearing now, which was the cause of most of the play

Just put the new bearing in, done everything up and all seems ok. There is zero play if I try and move the wheel in the direction of positive and negative camber. However I can get the tiniest bit of play if I move it in the direction of in and out in terms of toe adjustment. Everthing is tightened up, could I be feeling one of the bushings in one if the suspension arms? Paranoid now with the slightest bit of play

I've dropped it off with a workshop to swap the hub over. The hub wasn't lubed when it was pressed into the bearing from memory. The guy at the bearing place said there wasn't any obvious signs of installation failure. How do you torque up that big nut Scotty? I don't have a rattle gun, but left it in gear and used a big bar to do it up tight. The guy at the bearing place suggested doing it up as tight as you can and then putting the wheel back on and doing the final torque with the wheel taking the load rather than the diff/drive shaft