Chris32

Mines got a oil cooler with no thermostat, oil temp sits between 70-80 degrees. I run BCPR6ES plugs with the standard gap, which is 0.8mm from memory. I've found V Power to give me greater mileage than BP Ultimate for some reason too

Jesus! I get around 460-520kms a tank, around 50L if I fill it up when the light is on. I'd be checking your O2 sensor

Two places I've used in the past are Bridgestone on Gouger Street, and Blackwood Tyrepower. Both listened to what I wanted rather than alligned to what they wanted. Bridgestone also adjusted my camber kit and castor rods to the specs I wanted. It did cost more, but I was happy to pay for a result I was happy with. This was a few years ago, so not sure if the same people still run them.

Also, are the studs to suit front or rear? I've heard they are different

How much longer than stock are the studs ? Would it require open ended nuts?

So having to do this twice in a week, i figured the second time around I'll take some decent pictures for anyone else who wants to give it a go. First time was with a second hand bearing from a wrecker, which wasn't much better than the old one. Although it 'felt' ok when it was off the car, once the wheel was on and you could get some weight / leverage on the bearing, it had plenty of play. I sourced a new replacement from CBC Bearings here in Adelaide - (08)82617122 Part Number - NJ246AKIT - $114.58 + GST. This is a R34 specific bearing, with the tab for the handbrake as per the pictures. You'll need access to a bearing press to push out the old hub and press it onto the new bearing. The locating pin for the handbrake bolt will alos need to be punched out and installed in the new bearing 1) Crack the wheel nuts and jack the car up safely, using axle stands. You'll need to apply quite a bit of force to undo some of the bolts, so you don't want the car coming down off the jack onto you. If you can't manage this, I'd stop reading now and take it to a mechanic! 2) Remove rear wheel and slide under the car for some added insurance if it all goes pear shaped. 3) Remove the brake caliper - 2 x 17mm bolts. Support the brake caliper so it doens't hang from the brake line. See pic for location of bolts. 4) Remove the brake rotor. If it doesn't budge, make sure your handbrake is not on, as this will hold the rotor on. It should come off easily, but might need a light nudge with a rubber mallet. You'll be left looking at the handbrake assembly and the hub as per pic. 5) Remove the handbrake assembly. Take plenty of pictures showing the orientation and location of all the springs. Get undernreath and take some more pictures, as its a pain the frist time you put it back together. You can see the retainer springs in the picture, unclip these and it all will fall apart and come off. 6) Remove the split pin from the driveshaft and undo the big nut. I think its 32mm. Mine was very loose, leading to the bearing failure the first time around. Push the driveshaft back into the hub - this allows you to access the 4 19mm bolts located at the back of the bearing which hold it to the suspension. 7) Undo the 4 19mm bolts located at the rear of the bearing. You might need to push the driveshaft back while locating the socket. These suckers are pretty tight, so be careful not to smash your knuckles when the let go! 8) Undo the large nut behind the bit that the handrake springs clip onto. I think its 24mm. This one is also plenty tight. 9) The bearing should now slide off the driveshaft and leave you looking at the driveshaft and where it all locates. 10) The old hub needs to be pressed out of the old bearing and pressed into the new bearing. A trip to my favourite workshop with a bottle of JD's saw this complete in around 15 mintues. 11) Slide on the new bearing to the driveshaft, and locate in the correct position. Locate the large handbrake bolt and then locate the 4 bolts in the back, do them up finger tight to make sure its all located correctly, then tighten. Assembly is basically the reverse of pulling it apart. Remember to tighten that big nut up on the driveshaft, as that pulls the bearing toghether and keeps them happy! Any questions, ask away Chris

I got a replacement part from CBC Bearings, fit perfect. Part Number - NJ246AKIT - $114.58 + GST. The part suits left or right, you have to punch out the pin that locates the handbrake bolt and install it onto the new bearing assembly. I'll post up a detailed thread for future reference.

Thanks mate, my bearing was pretty bad, the rest are fine however. I'm going to take the old hub apart in an attempt to get part numbers from a local bearing company. I'll post up my results.

Had to replace the passenger side rear wheel bearing, found it was very loose when playing around getting the brakes squeal free. Purchased a s/h hub from a wrecker, as sourcing a new bearing for the GTT is quite hard! 3 beers and. 2 1/2 hours later she's as good as new, with no wobbly rear wheel. Anyone looking to undertake such a repair, it isn't overly difficult but I was scratching my head a few times trying to get it off. If you didn't have to take the hand brake off, it would be pretty simple, if not a bit fiddly

In terms of being a spectator, is there any entry fees or anything I need to do to attend these events, including the dinner?

I fixed my sqeual completely by rounding off the trailing and leading edges of the pads with a file on the weekend. Whisper quiet!

What about a N15 SSS Pulsar? I owned a N14 SSS as my first car, and it was great. Punchy little motor, can't get into a whole lot of trouble and they are cheap as. With a basic exhaust and filter and a timing tweak for 98 Octane fuel, it would make 85wkw and was about as quick as a CA powered Silvia/180. Parts are more than plentiful too

Looks like my left rear needs doing, can anyone confirm the above options? The Just Jap one seems to be the only one I can find

I had bad brake squeal with the QFM pads I have, I think they are QFM ARM1's Anyhow, I popped them out and rounded the edges with a file, rather than a chamfer.I did the trailing and leading edges, and it seems to have done the trick. I should have taken some pictures, but its around a 5mm radius. I only did the rears, as that seemed to be the main source of the noise, but I'll do the fronts next time the rims come off. I didn't really want to change pads, as they perform really well. Prior to rounding the edges, I'd get squeal from around 40kmhr down to a complete stop. Thumbs up the the QFM pads, and now they are quiet, I'm very happy

That's a massive moment, well done getting out of that

Ive got pretty bad squeal on my front drivers side. The only thing I've done was swap my wheels over, and when I did this I gave the front drivers side disc a bit of a wobble. The rotor was kinda stuck on the hub, and popped off. Like it was rusted on, however the other week when I flushed my fluid I popped the caliper off, and to my surprise the back of the rotor had what looked to be some of the copper anti-squeal grease on it. I'm going to grab some more next time I'm at the parts shop, and apply some to the back of the rotor where it meets the hub. I'm sure thats what's causing my squeal

100,000km service complete, with the timing belt and water pump being done yesterday. The belt was still in OK condition, with just some fine cracks appearing in the rubber, and the teeth looking pretty good. The water pump, apart from being dirty on the outside, looked in excellent condition, and probably could have gone another 100k. However, no point while everything was already off. Chucked it back on the dyno, tidy'd up the tune a bit on the light load and played around with the timing up top to try and squeeze some more power out of it, but keeping the boost at 11-12psi was the limiting factor and power remains at 190rwkw. I keep hearing whispers that the Series 2's came with steel wheel turbo's, but can't find any evidence of this. Maybe one day I'll drop the exhaust and check for myself. In reality though, there isn't another 20-30kw hiding in the current setup, so there isn't much point winding up the boost to failure point just for another 10kw. One thing that might benefit from a upgrade is the exhaust from the cat. back, as its not overly large in diameter - 3" if im lucky. Never really noticed it, so next time I'm under it I'll measure it all up. But for now, its all as good as new and I look forward to the next 100,000

Spent a few hours on the weekend changing the oils as its just ticked over 100,000 and I wanted to start fresh to know its all been done. Oils used - Engine - Penrite Racing 10/40w - capacity 6L. I'm guestimating the capacity of the oil cooler based on my old car, but the dipstick level seems good and oil pressure is stable. Diff - Penrite Progear 75/90W - took around 1.5L Gearbox - Penrite Progear 75/85w took almost 3.5L Brakes - Motul RBF600 fluid The gearbox oil was pretty straight forward, although the filler plug was insanely tight. Had to use the breaker bar to undo it. The drain plug came out pretty easy, so I’m guessing it was just done up way too tight. The oil that came out of the gearbox looked pretty good – however thinking about it, looks could be deceiving on the gearbox as it doesn’t get exposed to carbon like the engine oil. There was a reasonable amount of fine metal particles on the magnet, so I’m guessing it’s been quite a while between changes, and I’m glad I swapped it over. The diff oil looked in similar condition, with the oil still looking reasonably clear, and a similar amount of metal particles on the magnet. However, reading online, my diff is a ‘Torsen’ mechanism, as opposed to a viscous clutch like most Nissan diff’s from the similar era, so it won’t fill the fluid with crap as the clutch plates wear in the diff. Feels better with the new fluid. The engine oil I’m very impressed with, with the oil pressure remaining at least that of the previous oil, and the oil temp lower by around 5* during similar driving. Given it a few blasts yesterday and the car feels much smoother. I ended up flushing the brakes, instead of just a re-bleed, as the fluid was very dark, especially the first few pumps out of each calliper. Pedal feel is much more solid than before, so I’m quite surprised at this, as they felt good prior to the change. Timing belt etc getting done next week, then it will be like new!

I've got my 100k service to do over the weekend Going with the Penrite Racing 10-40, still tossing up in regards to the diff and gearbox oil. Will probably go with the Penrite product

Jeez I still remember this thread too, longest time I can remember getting a notification for!

Oil temp of around 100 is pretty safe/normal I would have thought? My car sits on 80* day to day, and gets up to 90-95 quite quickly if I take if for a bit of a blast, and also comes down quite quickly once its been driven normally. I have a oil cooler in the front right guard that gets decent airflow Im looking at using Penrite for my next oil change, seems to be quite popular

Drivers side front guard - pretty keen on this. Are you able to pack and freight to Adelaide?

Series 1 front bar replaces the stock Series 2 and Fibreglass GTR style bar. Has the stock optional lip, which ties in well with the rest of the kit on the car. Painted it up myself, pretty happy with how it turned out. Autobarn rattle can mix with plastic bumper primer and decent rattle can clear x 3 coats. Initial paint mix from Autobarn was quite a way off my cars colour, however they had 3 mixes for KV2 in their system. They guy was pretty helpful and mixed up a sample which was pretty close, and chucked in the can of clear for the other guy not taking the time to check and sample before he mixed it. All up, with trimming the bar to suit it took around 5-6 hours including a bit of filler and a decent sanding prior to primer/paint, but it was done in parts over the last 3 weekends. The front bar reo was chopped to suit the fibreglass bar, so I'm keeping me eye out for one of these over the next few months, as I'd like it secured in place a bit better than it is currently. However, for a DIY, im pretty pleased with it

Went back to Autobarn and they had 3 mixes of paints under the same code! So the guy mixed a few samples and we chose the closest one. He said they should have offered to do that in the first place - duh! Anyhow, all done, and I'm quite happy with the result, I'll chuck a few pics on my build thread