Chris32

Yeah, I think it probably is detonation, how much is hard to gather Been like that for over a year now, close to 18,000kms! Will keep going in the process of elimination to see what differance more of a play with the injectors does BOV mod works well on mine, does make on off throttle driving a little harder to keep smooth

The car feels and sounds allot better. Maybe its just me, but the exhaust sounds crisper than before The injectors were cleaned and tested a year ago, and where all within 1% of eachother. There was one which was a bit clogged, but it all was ok Will see how it goes in the next few days

Mine is still giving me the shits Playing around with injector correction % on each injector now. Last night I went through each injector and added 2% more fuel to see if it would help with my random knock Injector 4 showed the most improvement, knock going from 80 to 24 at 1.3bar so now my injector correction reads 1 59.5% 2 58.5% 3 58.5% 4 60.5% 5 59.0% 6 59.5% Maybe I am finally onto what my problem is? Worst knock I saw on the way to work this morning was 33. It used to be up in the 70's Running SAFF 98 with 10% ethanol. The fuel itself showed normal knock numbers compared to BP98 before I did the adjustments

Good 'ol knock sensors Mine is still giving me the shits I think it got a bit damaged when I had my new exhaust made up, the earth for the welder was attached near the knock sensor or something Mine is stange, some days it will hit 80-90, other days 30odd. I have heard it ping a few times, and it showed about 130 on the h/c. Mainly to me being silly! Playing around with injector correction % on each injector now. Last night I went through each injector and added 2% more fuel to see if it would help with my random knock Injector 4 showed the most improvement, knock going from 80 to 24 at 1.3bar Maybe I am finally onto what my problem is? Either way, the knock sensor is more of a guide than a rule, each cars knock sensor will read things a bit differant, best way is to check it on the dyno and see when you can hear it knock and see what the h/c says engine check light comes on at 60

My actuator was siezed (and stinking hot after about 6 dyno runs) so we just used a pry bar and bent the bracket holding everything togther forward, as it looked like the wasn't much adjustment left anyway Works well, holds 1.1bar without a ebc now, and comes on much quicker. Never had any creep issues now, I used to though with the old dump pipe What sort of dump pipe are you running? Could be back pressure related? Mine's running full 3.5" turbo back now and boost doesn't creep. It drops off up top now becuae the turbo is out of puff!

Shootout mode will give you a result that 'should' be comparable to other dyno runs in shootout mode Wouldnt waste your time with a comp. test, as long as its not blowing smoke Timing is adjusted via the crank angle sensor, on the exhaust side of your engine (if looking at it front on) The Crank angle sensor that round thing with 3 screws holding it to your timing belt cover This needs to be adjusted with a timing light To put a new set of plugs in and adjust the timing shouldn't cost more than $100, the plugs you can DIY if you are hand with a spanner

I'd say the timing is out a little bit, thats where you would expect to gain power. 2 or 3 degrees out will mean big power losses Looks like a bit of a miss at ~100, maybe swap or gap down your plugs Other than that, as always, dyno's are best used for before and after, to see gains/losses Should have dyno'd it before doing all your mods What sort of condition is your clutch in? Not slipping is it?

Happend to mine a while ago Swapped pumps and still was stuffed Then I jacked up the front, with the engine off, and turned the wheels both ways as far as it could go about 5 times each way. This supposedly gets rid of any air in the system It didn't seem to help much, maybe a touch lighter, then a day or so later it was back to normal To this day I have no idea what caused it

Maybe the problem is due to 100 Octane, not the 5% Ethanol content? i remember a old HPI article with martins soarer when tuning it to 102 ron Elf fuel. He stated that there would be no benefit, and perhaps the car would run worse than with 98 octane Also, no one answered my question before, what plugs are people running that have experienced problems?

got my mech. diff from Scott about a year ago! Great bloke, if I needed a clutch I'd buy it Awesome clutch for that price, someone should snap it up no probs

I have used 10% Ethanol 98 from SAFF/Liberty servo's here in SA First experience was a full tank (51 litres) The car went well. Knock on the PFC was normal, water temp was normal Economy was pretty poor, mainly due to the fact that I was giving it a bit to see if it knocked or not I have used it a various times since, mostly with a bit of BP in the tank, and its been fine, economy has been within ~30kms a tank of what I'd get with BP98 Best bet is to everyone make up your own minds on this one Early cases in the eastern states of engine failure where attributed to servo's running 40-50% mixes of the stuff One thing I have noticed is that it on copper plugs the E10 fuel is A OK, on platinums, well it ran a little rough so I switched back to good ol' copper plugs Maybe thats where there is confusion, what plugs is everyone running that has experienced probs with the Ethanol fuels?

Ok cool. I will have to do some picture taking of the rear and see what bolt pattern etc it is and then see what would possibly fit I reckon you are right in thinking that GT25 style exhaust housings will be what will fit, so if I have to make up a adapter, by the time I do that I may as well get a 2530

I can't see how swapping exhaust housings will mean it needs to be balanced I don't really want to change the turbo, I want to see how swapping the exhaust housings will effect it. A RB25 highflow, say a GCG 450hp or whatever they do would be good, but I want to try things slightly differantly, and I can't afford a new turbo at this point I think with a bigger rear housing, it might be all I need

Anyone have any input?

looking at your motor from the front of your car, follow the rubber hose coming of the top of your motor to your plenum Where this joins is the PCV Take it out, see if its moving freely thats about it

Want more power out of my RB20/2510 combo Easy way out would be to swap a 2530 onto it, but I want to think outside the square ATM its making 193rwkw at 1.5bar boost, it comes on real quick but looses top end Dropping boost back to 1 bar sees 185rwkw, a tad later in the rev range Torque is obviously allot less that what it is a 1.5 bar Heres my thinking. Going just by looking at the housing on my turbo, it appears smaller than a stock RB20 housing Cubes has also commented on this, and we both reckon its pretty small. Would it be possible to swap a RB20 or RB25 exhaust housing onto the 2510? Does anyone know how a 2510 exhaust housing would compare to a RB25 housing? The only differance I can see on teh HKS table between the 2510 and the 2530 is the exhaust side of things, with the 2530 having a 7mm bigger exhaust exducer diameter I just want to free up the last few thousand RPM, at the moment, changing gears at 6000rpm because you can feel the power drop isn't what I am after I am willing to sacrifice some low/mid RPM response for more of a top end. Boost will be around 1.3bar, anymore dosen't seem sensible on a daily driven, 20,000km a year car Idea's suggestions? Attached is my last few dyno's, first one is initial setup, bleed valve set to 20psi Second is tune at 1.5bar and run at stock boost 3rd is last dyno run at 1.5bar AFR's are 11.5 -12.1, timing is around 16/17 degrees at full noise My tuner suggests the turbo is at its limits, cams or cam gears etc will just make the motor more efficient and bring the turbo on earlier I am yet to test other systems on the car, ie intercooler pressure drop, but the cooler is 600x300x60mm with 2.5" pipework all the way through. Exhaust is 3.5" dump, then 3.5" all the way to the back, no mufflers or cat etc. Chris

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthrea...threadid=144094 there you go lads

Heights on mine are 335 apart from the front right which is 330 odd. I will see how they settle over the next day or so to get to 350 I would have to go much higher on the grooves I didn't get swaybars, i will see hows it like when I get it all alligned One thing to note, at the lower setting, my bump stops got stuck up the top and pulled away from my dust boots, I haven't checked them since I raised it up a bit, hopefully they are still intact at the higher setting. Would be a pain in the ass to pull them out for a 3rd time!

Mines all in, took a bitof playing around to get the heights right but it wasn't too hard Initially my circlips where on the lower of the two grooves that where machined stock This proved to be too low, so out they came and where put on the higher of the two stock grooves This gave me a ride height of around 340mm, so pretty happy with that, apart from the front right which is 334mm so I might bump that one up to the next groove to get them all even. Just ran out of time otherwise i would have done that I will also see what height it settles at before I get all the allignment done, as I might need to bump it up a bit still, depending on where it settles On the road ti feels really good

Cool, I will see how they go, I am putting them in on the weekend Chris

I got a mate who owns a wrecking yard to get me a set of tops and rubber bits etc, so not sure mate. I am guessing you would, as the stock springs are higher?? Downside I have a brand new spring compressor set I don't need!

Put a front and a rear together last night One question, are the springs supposed to remain captive at full extension? I thought I'd need spring compressors but didn't need to use them at all. the rear spring is pretty much captive, you can move it around ever so slightly, but the front has a good few mm of movement? Is this because the springs are a bit lower than stock? Circlip height is as reccomended Chris

Yeah, mines the same as that, there are 2 grooves that look like they where there to start with I will go with the lower of the 2 when I set mine up I reckon

Cool, thanks for that. I will set them up at the reccomended height. Will be a big differance from the 308/305mm ride height previous! Shipping came quite quickly, and all arrived ingood condition Another quick question, I know this sounds stupid, but the centre nut that screws onto the shaft, once the tops are on do you do this all the way up or just enough to hold it all on there? I have seen some shocks where it sits right up the top, and others that sit right down as far as it can go. Is it worth securing the dust covers with a zip tie around the body of the damper? I take it the bump stop sits in the groove of the dust cover like in your picture, but I can see the dust cover being able to slide up the damper body unless its secured While I'm on that topic as well, should I pull the dust cover/bump stop hard against the damper body, or let common sense tell me I might be best to allow them to have a bit of give in them so they can move around a bit with the suspension Thanks, Chris

Got mine this morning! Great stuff Only got a few questions - I have had a look but haven't been able to find what the ride heights will be at the various grooves? I have seen it somewhere before but I cant find it now Also, will the corresponding groove on the front give the same ride height as the rear? Bump stops and dust covers arrived also, looks simple enough to set them up as you have posted. I will be putting them together myself, and hints or tips for me? The rear springs also didn't correspond exactly to the product number on the group buy sheet, but the last 3 numbers did so I assume these are the correct springs? The ones I got are product number C90-20191 Thanks for all your help, Chris