Chris32

Offers anyone? Will sell without RE55S for less

I think Shaun has a bbq, he did last time

Boostworx is on Boothby St, Panorama, just of Goodwood Rd They tie/strap your car down Chris

Looks like sale has fallen through for my rims So up for sale again Sparco 17x8 front, Bridgestone SO3 tyres, 235/45/17 approx 60% left but worn quite a bit on the insides. Still grip really well on the road, would be fine for a set of drift fronts. A few small gutter scrapes Sparco 17x9 rear, a bit of dish on them, they fill out the guards on my 32 perfectly. Have Goodyear Revspecs 235/45/17 on them, a bit of tread left, maybe 40%. Perfect for a bit of drift etc. Also have 2 235/45/17 RE55S semi slicks I'll throw in as well, they are worn approx 50% in the middle and worn approx 85-90% on the insides. One needs puncture repair from nail. I didn't know it was in there until the tyres come of the rims, but I wouldn't leave it to be sure. A few gutter scrapes. 5 stud, to suit Skyline, pretty sure they will fit S14/15, Soarer etc as well, but can't confirm Have all wheel nuts etc, they are nice rims, balance up well and look good. If I had the spare cash I'd re-spray them and keep them After around $1200 but negotitable, want to sell quickly as they are just taking up room in my dads shed Pics can be seen attached PM me or reply to this thread with offers etc. Prefer SA buyer, hence my post in the SA section, but if someone is willing to pay for the lot to be sent, more than welcome Chris

Put me down, they are a good day to put faces to names Chris

I'd say tuning... My car used to be similar, with a chipped ecu and stock injectors It had little timing down low, making it feel very laggy Picked up 45rwkw through the midrange after I had it re-tuned with bigger injectors and PFC, I'd say by the sounds of it, and the power its making, there are no leaks etc, its all in the tune Where was the dyno done? Chris

Well over all, I got 370kms out of a tank. The last hundred odd kms was just off boost driving around really. Economy wise it went pretty close to what I usually get out of a tank of BP/Mobil, maybe 30kms less I'd say overall, its not any better in regards to performance, knock levels where pertty similar. I guess the jury is still out, need to do a bakc to back dyno to see if its any better But, from what I experienced, if you where stuck, and needed to fill up, it would do the job pretty well

Quick report - so far done about 220kms, used about 35 litres of the stuff! Shitehouse economy! Maybe the oxygen sensor for the ECU can't tell its got 10% more ethanol in it, much the same of the dyno's...... so its adding a extra 10% to light load cruise? Knock levels about the same

When does this offer expire?

I'd ring and check if you guys are planning on going to a friday session......... There was supposed to be one today, but as a certain forum member found out after getting there car fully prepped, its for cars racing on the sat. and sun. only

General thinking on this topic, its been covered before, is unless you live in area's where you regularly see 0 degrees or colder, they are not required - ie 99% of Australia, you don't need to worry about one

Yeah, that was my thinking too One thing I can report, as you pointed out, is that the economy seems to be poorer than that attained with Mobil or BP fuel Either that, or my attempts to test its ability has meant I have driven the car a little harder So far, its hard to say if its better or not, definatley a tad cheaper, but it looks like you burn more of it, so the cost advantage kinda cancels eachother out Anyone else tried it? I'm thinking it would be great stuff with a das of toluene in it.........

You can if you have a certain level CAMS license

Stock radiator isn't too bad as long as it gets good airflow. Make sure you have your heater on full, it might give you a extra lap or two I installed a oil cooler before I went out Chances are your brakes will be the telling factor unless they are upgraded, as the first time I went out, I was only running 150rwkw and the brakes would shit themselves after a few laps Tips would be - Make sure you have decent brakes/pads Run your oil level a touch higher to prevent oil starvation Test the integrity of your fuel tank seals - both times I have been out, I have leaked fuel. Fill your car up and throw it around HEAPS, then check for leaks. Tighten and ensure the seal for your pump brakcet is seated properly, especially if it has been replaced at some point Make sure your happy with your tyres - if they feel shit on the street, they feel way worse on the track. Put a extra few PSI in them Do one complete cool down lap, low revs with minimal braking to let everything cool of Its great fun, I hope I can make it out! Chris

Cool, thanks! I want to make sure everything is new, that way I don't have to touch it for a while at least! Regards, Chris

Got a tank of this at the moment, thought I'd give it a try So far so good, knock levels on the PFC are much the same, and th weather has been a bit warmer the last few days too Feels better than with BP 98 in it, more of a crispness to the exhaust note I reckon Chops - what you said about the AFR's leaning out - would this have anything to do with the 10% ethanol content in the fuel not being able to be read by the current range of AFR meters used by dyno operators................ I spoke to a guy at the SAFF stand at the show, and he was saying they dyno tested the fuel on allot of cars, and they came to the conclusion that due to the ethanol content in the fuel, the AFR meters struggled to read this My guess is Martins cars picked up power because he added fuel to compensate, and there is your power gain...... Most of the cars I have seen Martin tune, mine included, where quite lean, so by adding fuel to his tune, might xplain the power gain?? Also, ethanol, being like a alchohol, should cool the inlet charge a tad better than fuel when it gets injected shouldn't it? Just my two cents!!

I'll be going up for a look if you are going to be there, as for running, I doubt it, got no spare cash to fix anyhting at the moment!

I still have my cams in the cupboard at home waiting for a definate answer!!

No worries, I have a set tops organized, Im getting them on the weekend. Just a quick question, what spring rates are you specifying on these? I will need dust covers and bump stops also, are these expensive? I dont't want to use s/h crap on my suspension ever again!

Awesome stuff, I will send my order of on friday, need another pay day under my belt Is there a date when this finishes? Also, If I buy the shock/spring combination, is there anything else that is needed for me to bolt this up? Is anyhting needed of the stock suspension, or is it just a matter of assembling the shocks and springs and putting them on? Chris

double post...... whoops!

Yeah, its quite low..... Low enough to make daily driving a pain in the ass (litterally!) And the springs are so stiff it lifts the inside wheel up all the time, and my 'rebuilt' shocks are screwed for the second time now! So am I right in thinking its going to cost me $1233.10 for a set of shocks and springs to suit? Thats what I worked it out to be from the spread sheet Thanks for your help, Chris

Awesome. I will come up for sure, dunno if I will have a go or not. Just moved into a new place, so most of my money has been tied up with that, so the car isn't up to shape for track stuff yet. Never know, by October, it might be!

Yeah mate, the track stuff was similar to what you say, more shit on the rotor from the pads than bits of rotor wearing away Its daily driving on these pads, when they are not at proper temp, thats kills rotors! Nice grinding noises for the first 10 mins of driving Hows you beast going? When are you in Adelaide next?

My 16's are lightweight race style Buddy Club's, my 17's are much much heavier. So much so the car feels slower with them on. Would the setup you are reccomending be suitable for 225/50/16's on a 7.5" wide rim Just measured my car then, its sits at 308mm front and rear, so I guess its excessively low right now. Just afraid of the fact that raising it up 40odd mm, and going to a much softer spring (jap coilovers in there now) and the combination of 225/50/16 rubber will make the car feel all sloppy and shithouse What are your thoughts - if I was to get this, stick with the 16's or put the 17's on? Chris