Chris32

I got the whole thing, minus fuel rail but includes throttle body. Want $130 plus postage, should be no more than about $20 to send it Chris

I used some Racebrakes Comp 9's on the front and Comp 2's on the rear of my car last time I was at the track. They worked really well, but where way too hard on rotors and where very noisy for street use. These are in the shed now, waiting for the next track day, using some Bendix up front, Lucas on the rear. Quite good on the street Pays to have two sets of pads if you are going to use it on the track, as the track orientated pads are not the best choice for daily driving Well in my case anyway Forgot to add too - bedding in the pads hard is fine, but new rotors, best to use the old pads and bed them in gradually, otherwise you will crack new rotors if you cook them too hard to start with

Hey Sk, just wondering if the spring rate would need to be upped if using 16" 225/50/16 wheel tyre combo? Either that, or I have a set of 17x8 and 17x9 rims I could use But I like the 16's becasue the tyres are cheap!

Any pics of your setup? Sounds awesome Good to see some good power out of the '20

How much for a R32 GTSt front and rear shock/spring set?

Got it from Repco I think. It is heater hose, but they guy said as long as its oil vapour, it should be fine. He said because its not under constant pressure etc or full of oil, it should be no worries. Been on there for ages and I have been keeping a eye on it, seems to be doing fine

Nah, sorry mate, can't help there, I would say though that it wouldn't really matter, maybe give the turbo shop a ring? Its just a inlet and a outlet, I dont think they would have any valving or anyhting like that in there, just two holes to allow water in and out

No probs mate, that fixed my problem, and its sounds exactly the same as the one your having, any hassles/questions let me know Chris

Dunno if it would work then, as you really need something with two fittings so you can have a inlet and a outlet, otherwise it won't work because it won't be able to flow air through it. Best bet would be to get hold of a greddy copy or something from autobarn, they are pretty cheap and then mod it to suit Or put the stock pipe back on and see if that works, alothough you might get a bit of oil in your 'cooler/turbo etc which wouldn't be good

Yeah, otherwise it will not work at all. Will need to be sealed, otherwise it will be like you are running bugger all vacum because of the air leak Stuff a heap of steel wool in a stocking and put that in your catch can as a filter, should work no worries What sort of catch can are you running? can it be opened up so you can put some steel wool in there?

Kinda, but your catch can must be sealed, and not be able to suck air from atmosphere, otherwise off boost, you will jsut suck up whats in your catch can My setup is totally sealed, nothing goes to atmosphere, so its 100% legal too

Yeah, mine was setup just like yours, and it would smoke quite a bit. I changed it after reading up a bit on PCV setups etc Popped the dipstick on mine too, and my compressions where ok. I was running the stock turbo when it did this, so it was ages ago Try setting it up like mine, works fantastic for me.

Yeah sure, this pic makes it a bit clearer! You can see the l/h cam cover breather goes to the PCV Valve, like standard Under boost, the PCV valve is forced shut, forcing the blow-by though the other side, into your inlet This where I plumbeb my catch can in, it consists of a Greddy catch can, with a divider plate I made for the inside of it, one side is the inlet, the other is the outlet Inside that is steel wool in a stocking, this gets rid of most of the oil from the air getting sucked into your inlet

I had a similar problem on mine when running a catch can just of the cam covers and the PCV valve blocked I used to run my oil level high as well which doesn't help I set it up so the catch can still is in operation, but its now plumbed in between the r/h rocker cover take of point and where the air gets sucked in before the turbo if that makes sense! The PCV valve is still hooked up, so on decel, light throttle etc the crankcase air is still being sucked into the motor. So it filters the crankcase air going in before the turbo, and the other hose from the other cam cover is as it was standard I have found this works well for me, the catch can has steel wool/stocking combo in it and gets rid of most of the oil mist from the blow-by. My intercooler/turbo etc have no traces of oil in them I'd suggest trying this, mine has be running like this for almost 70,000kms at 200rwkw and it works a treat Give it a go, worked for me Chris

Sorry if I make no sense either, just trying to write down what I am thinking!!

Just was thinking to myself today about the records you here at the Nurburgring for production type cars What relevance do they have in relation to the performance of a car other than it can sustain high speed and corner at high speed? I have watched a few 'record' setting laps, and they have to overtake slower cars etc, but surely they are not at 10/10ths the whole way around Being a 7min + track for the ultra fast road cars, a little mistake here and there isn't going to show up nearly as much if it was a smaller track To me, Nurburgring records are more driver ability than car, as it would take some serious balls to drive that fast on such a long and demanding track, and being such a long track, it would not show errors up as much in the time than other tracks would This is the question I pose - to you is a record setting lap at the 'ring more of a test of driver and machine than a record setting lap at Bathurst for instance? Sure, you need a really quick car and a good driver to post a good lap time at either track To me, the Nurburgring is aweomse, but the validity of some of the records are a little vague Whats everyone else's thoughts on this? Chris

Yeah, the SAFF 98 should be no differant to the BP/Mobil fuel 100 Octane is good for track days etc where that bit of extra octane can be the differance in going home happy, or towing your car home because it had been detonating with the extra heat your car experiences at the track. It was pretty expensive though, at about $1.65 a litre I think (that was 8 months ago too) I have used it once, and it was quite good I think they are calling the SAFF stuff 'Boost 98' or seomthing like that

Could also be starter motor hitting the flywheel I 'accidentally on purpose' engaged my starter motor while my car was idling to see if it would pick up the noise..... 63 on the hand controller........ Chris

pretty ignorant, if its 98RON, then it should be as good as the Mobil and BP stuff. I have noticed no differance in knock levels between Mobil or BP, but I tend to get less kms out of BP Ultimate Chances are its probably comes out of the same refinery as either BP or Mobil the SAFF on OG Road sells 100RON Racing Fuel Im going to give it a try next time I go past a SAFF, the one I saw selling it was down near Holdens at Elizabeth I think they take discount vouchers too.....

Dylan Cameron E-mail Address(es): [email protected] Could try him on that one too, I have got quite a few things of him, great guy to deal with, Chris

I have RB20 inlet manifold+plenum+throttle body etc, I believe its the same as RB25 NA Ask Cubes, he can confirm, I am pretty sure its identical After $150

ALL CLUTCH & BRAKE SERVICE PTY LTD 3 Pinn St St Marys 5042 (08) 8277 8122 I got mine form there, they stock new parts. It cost me about $40 or $60, I can't remember

ALL CLUTCH & BRAKE SERVICE PTY LTD 3 Pinn St St Marys 5042 (08) 8277 8122 If you are really desperate, they could post one to you. I had mine couried to me from them From memory th master was about $43 or $63 , new Chris

SOLD guys, by now, they will be gettting loaded onto the big kerosine budgie on there way to the UK Thanks for all the intrest guys, Chris

I have a old one that leaks, but I guess you want one that works?