Chris32

What size did you have on your car

Sorry to dig up a old thread! benm, how did they last in the end? I'm up for new rubber again, I've tried pretty much everything apart from the Michelins, asre they worth a run?

mmm, they seem cheap enough Darren, where yours 16's? What are the sidewalls like? They will be going on the front first up, and I don't want a squirmy tyre on the front, it feels like shit if its like that Thinking of going 205/55, but as the rims are 7.5" wide, it will stretch them out a bit and give it a bit more feedback through the wheel. I have run 205 on the front before, and to be honest, it felt better than the 225's as they had less sidewall flex, and braking was just as good. They are much cheaper too! 225's are a minimum on the back, even then grip is marginal RaseR - what are the sidewalls like on the 17's?

anyone tried these? I need a replacement set of 225/50/16's, cant find much on the net about them They are quite well priced, at around $160ea http://www.toyo.com.au/TASW%20page.htm Cheers, Chris

Good to hear its sorted! Hopefully none of the crap it sucked up made it past your fuel filter into your injectors

I had a similar problem after my PFC/injectors went in, didn't matter what boost, it made 160rwkw Turned out to be a leaking intercooler hose, tightened it up, made another 40rwkw Check them all, as well as idle vacuum Chris

yeah, depending on load and gear, 1.4bar at just after 3200rpm from memory in 3rd, in 2nd its a bit later, probaly closer to 4000, dies of a bit after 6200rpm, just need to get the last 1500rpm pointing the right way on the dyno, then it would make 220rwkw no worries

Very true, without wheel trims and specs etc, its pretty useless information Sounds like it has potential though! I'm almost given up on getting anymore out of my setup, just cant get anymore out of a 2510 by the looks of things! Damn I wish it was a 2530/35! For the cost and headache's involved, cams aren't happening with mine, too much for not much gain Might try a differant intercooler, as mine has a 60mm core, maybe something larger will give it that last bit of top end it so desperatley needs! Someone hurry up and get a 2835ProS ffs!! I want to see how they would perform on a RB20........

Funny you should say that, I have always run BP, and put some Mobil in last night becasue I was almost out, it doesn't seem to be as bad. I think its just a coincedence though, as I have run mobil before and 100 octane fuel and it does similar. A bit of a placebo effect I think Still reckon the knock sensor is a bit dodgy. I reckon the guys are onto something with the drivetrain noise, my gearbox is getting old and has a bit of slop in the gears, so maybe its picking up that? Either way, just ignoring the knock sensor for the time being, I know its not a tune issue

Damn, cold motor, big revs and load = big bang! I'd go another 20, at the end of the day, its only a car, it will wear out again, and you can have plenty of fun with the 20. I could'nt drive my car the way I do if I had 10 grand worth of RB25/6 under the bonnett, but knowing its only a bit over a grand if it does shat itself, it makes it more fun. I'd be to worried about nuking it if I had a big dollar motor, to much pain if it shits itself

Sorry mate, that sold a few months back Hows your running? Chris

yeah a little, also when it starts to wheelspin a bit in second with a bit of axle tramp

Its odd hey! The problem is my PFC and Diff went in at the same time, so I can't compare too! It seems strange though, as even when its not under and load, the clunks from the diff show up as knock? I have aluminum sub-frame bushes, as well as alloy tops on my suspension, I wonder if the noise is travelling through and reading as knock. Its quite loud in the car around corners etc Bit of a wierd one!

Mine does that occasionly as well, I will have to check mine.....

Quick question, For a while now I have thought I have had a dodgy knock sensor. After doing a bit of fiddling with the fuel and ignition maps on the weekend to fix up a bit of knock, I noticed my PFC hand controller is indicating knock when ever my diff locks up ( 1.5way mech.) Has anyone else noticed this? In a straight line I was getting up to 70 knock on the hand controller, after a bit of playing around I got it down to 35, which I think is acceptable On my way home driving through the hills, I would glance down and see 60-70 knock again, and upon closer inspection it was picking up knock when my diff locks up out of corners? Has anyone else had the same issue? Chris

Looks like I have a cracked exhaust manifold or a few snapped studs, as when mine comes on boost its making a strange whistling noise and you get a ig whif of exhaust gas smell in the cabin Whacked a log (yes log, not a branch lol!) overtaking a car a month or so ago, I had to get the dump pipe replaced, as it was dented to all hell Can only smell it on boost, so I reckon its a leak On a more positive note, I did a bit of backyard tuning to stop a bit of detonation I was having, the car feels nice now, spins up 235 wide 17's in second as soon as it comes onto boost now, so its a bit of fun also, one thing to note, just clocked over 10,000 kms mark running at 1.3-1.4bar, and 158,000kms on my motor Bummer to R31 POWER, don't loose the RB20 faith mate, stay true! Whack another 20 in there!

I've got one, somewhere in the shed, I'll have a look and see if I can find it Chris

Could be a dodgy or blocked lifter perhaps? Maybe worth doing a engine oil flush with one of those concentrate type addatives that break down the old oil, and then dump the old oil and put some fresh oil in it?

shit yeah, if your exhaust valve wont shut, it all gets squeezed out before going bang!

Any of you guys thought it could be a dodgy valve?

For warranty sake, they like to do them as pairs I'd get two done, see what they are like, as the price for each is the same if you do one or four

Well I was recommended by Trent at Autobarn to go to a place called Competition Conversion, they are near the coke factory, apparently JMS/D1 Garage send all there stuff there, but they had them for ages and didnt even look at them, shithouse really The one in QLD is very good, allot of guys have had there sus rebuilt there with no drama's Aust Post is quite cheap to send them up to, cost about $25 each way

There are a few places locally, one of which had my suspension for over 5 weeks without touching it, I ended up sending them to QLD, back about a week later, and they have done just over a years work without any issues Chris

Good thing about building a motor like that, is you must be able to afford a few sets of new undies for when it comes on boost the first few time!! Great stuff! Awesome

yeah looks good what duty cycle are your injectors reaching?