Chris32

Yeah, understand that completely, and if I where chasing times then of course there would be benefits to reving your car harder in differant gears, my car is basically a daily driven road car that I can have a bit of fun with on the weekend/nights etc I can count on one hand the amount of times I have (lately) had the road and the inclination to have a run flat out through 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Once its sorted on the dyno and I want to take it down the strip, then I will look a the benefits of various things such as where my rev limter is set The way I'd do it though would be set my redline very high (say 8200) and setup a shift light to tell me when the optimum shift rpm is, rather than wait for me to hear it Good point though, and a very valid one at that if you are chasing times Maybe with some cam gears I can get the peak power higher in the rev range and use what you have said to shave some time of a 1/4 run or something, p.s, you guys had any luck wiring in a GTR air temp sensor yet? Chris

yeah, small problems suck!! No point reving it past 7 grand really, so I have set the rev limit to 7100, no point in ringing its neck for nothing! Knock sensor is a bit of a bugger, it happens under load mainly, I think that the signal coming from the knock sensor. Something not right about it thats for sure, so I will have a look at this and see how hard it is to swap with the spares I have Free most of the week for a beer if you are back in town let me know mate Chris

Bit of a update....... Car had a replacement fuel tank installed which has cured the fuel leak my car has been having! Bosch 044 pump installed too, and re-tuned to get it back where it was before Turned being another frustrating exercise, with the car seeming to have a knock sensor problem and showing massive knock without a hint of detonation! The car was tuned, ignoring the knock sensor and its now back up to almost 200rwkw, 197odd to be exact, at 1.3 bar boost It seems I do indeed have a HKS 2510, indicated by it not making much more grunt than 200rwkw, even at higher boost. Next thing for me is to check the pressure drop across the intercooler, and go from there. Damn good fun to be back up to decent power again, even at 200rwkw its a blast to drive, enough power to have plenty of fun with First, get the knock sensors fixed!!!! Maybe cam gears next to try and get a bit more top end out of it, as its making peak power jsut after 6200rpm Pretty happy though, it feels good to drive again

yeah, pothole is what made me think last night that it must be a knock sensor problem, as Shaun said it would take 3 more degree's timing before it would start to show signs of detonation By the looks of it, it's indeed a 2510, thought it may have been 2540/30 but it was the old tune that made it laggy, now its making boost at around 2000rpm and depending on what gear, on full boost by 3300-4000rpm so its very responsive now

Well its funny, as it has a quick flash up to about 70-75 at around 6000rpm from what Shaun was saying, but its definatly not detonating at all just showing up on the knock sensor :confused: Other than that is between 20-25? Also if I go over a pothole it shows knock of about 50? Something tells me the sensor may have a dodgy connection.... Will have to try the spare sensors I have, hopefully fixes it up Can running good though, 1.3bar making 197rwkw and feels very strong on the road. I think my turbo might struggle to get to 220rwkw, but its heaps of fun like it is..........I am sure the driver of the Evo4 I surprised the other day can attest to this.........

Ok, I will get this checked. I have a spare motor to take parts of too, so might do some swapping

Anybody had any drama's with there knock sensors? on RB20's in particular One of mine seems to be playing up and reading all over the shop, so much so that I have replaced my fuel pump as I thought it was fuel pressure related I think I may have giving one a bit of a tweak ages ago while installing my oil cooler kit My tuner says that everything is way conservative and the knock sensor is reading detonation (not consitsantly either) but there are no signs of detonation, and it happlily supports a extra 6 degree's timing before tell tale puffs of unburnt fuel from the exhaust, so its a long way off detonation, AFR's are low 11's Everyhting has been checked, plugs, fuel pressure etc I also had a new exhaust made up and we think that maybe the earth for the welder may have been positioned closely to one of the sensors (we can't remember) Would this cause damage? Thanks in advance, Chris

Could be head gasket......... The coolant leaks in a takes about 5 seconds to burn up on startup

Personally I'd tow it........ Might get away with a quick check of the dipstick, if it looks reasonable then it may be ok to drive, over just take a jack and change it before driving it Might pay to take a jerry can of petrol too

Hows this for a comparison - Would you drink a old stale beer thats been left open for 6 months on a warf/ship, absorbed all sorts of shit out of the air etc or would you rather wait for a nice cold one, even if you have to wait a extra day or pay a bit more for it? Food for thought

email sent.........

any luck guys?

Good to hear mate, at least its all in one piece still Sounds like its miles better to drive, I would love to see what differance a set of Poncams makes to your setup (hint hint ) Funny though, I was reading a old Zoom mag on the weekend, it had a bit about Trust turbo's and there conclusion was that its the exhaust housings that make the power differance on Trust turbos, and matching the exhaust housing to the engine gives awesome results Found one of those fuel pump strainers too, damn that took some finding! I will post the results of the pump swap after its done Chris

Front mount would be the way to go, much more cooling capacity and potential down the track. There is a Trust side mount cooler on ebay for pretty cheap though

stock standard in good condition they should make around 100-110rwkw I'd go with intercooler and exhaust, becasue that is what would give you the best gain, as the boost will rise with less restriction anyway. From there I would look at fuel pump and boost control. I would expect to see 150rwk from exhaust and intercooler mods

I'd say if your car is in reasonable condition, there is no reason it can't cope with a bit of a boost up bang for bucks wise a bleed valve can be had for $40 odd bucks, you could try it and see how the car feels. If you don't like it or the car can't handle it, then take it off and sell it My car was good when i put the intercooler, exhaust and pod filter on, it made 153rwkw with the standard fuel pump, clutch etc. That was without touching the boost too, just with the intercooler and exhaust if I where you, I'd get one of those $200 all in one dump/front pipe, ditch the cat, intercooler and mild boost up and see how it feels. Either way by increasing flow with the intercooler, or winding a bit of boost in, it will make more power and feel heaps better

if you can afford it, there are many benefits to be had with a electronic boost controller if you do wind the boost up, make sure you get it dyno'd to check air fuel ratio's, especially if the car has the original pump in it You know once you start with boost, it will never end - fuel pump, clutch, intercooler the list goes on!

Revs and detonation are the killers mate, keep them under control and you should be right. Also at the track I guess you have to keep a eye on the water temps as well, but at least that will creep up and be managable ( try find a tuner with the FC-logit software, as you can access igniton v water temp through the laptop interface ) Remember if you bump up your rev limit at the track, you may be venturing into a 'un-tuned' part of the map, which could lead to nasty problems and another RB20 on the scrap pile Who did the re-tune etc? Was it that dodgy place that you had all that trouble with?

14psi is considered the safe max some have run more with no drama's, others have run less and had drama's You might pick up a few psi with a differant intercooler, but it will also mean your turbo wont have to work as hard to make the same boost as previous if you run 14psi with the stock intercooler compared to 14psi with a aftermarket cooler hope it makes sense Chris

yeah, that would be a experience! when are you finished in adelaide, would be good to catch up for a beer before you go. Should hang around for the 500 mate, thats a awesome weekend!

When can I drive it next mate :P Will be interesting to feel the differance. I went for a blast in Freebaggins 290rwkw R33 last night, that felt like it was about to take off!! 20psi should be safe in the ol' RB20 mate, before fuel pump drama's i was running 1.35bar in mine, and it went well, heaps of midrange. Cant wait to get mine going strong again well done mate, Chris

Awesome mate, those cats are nasty things aren't they Back pressure is bad Very stout power figures, a excellent result, big

thats gold!

Next time you bring your car over mate we should get a back to back dyno run so everyone can see the differances in the turbos. I have doubts to wether mine is a 2510 or 2530 now, either way I am happy with it Being a much more serious turbo setup than yours I doubt wether mine will ever get to 230rwkw, i'd be happy with 210-15rwkw for now. I think I might give some cam gears a try next to try stop the power dropping away sharply after 6100rpm. GTR cams still sitting in my cupboard too

Congrats mate, just what you where looking for, well done!!! Wednesday willl be the test for mine, tuning for the new pump (which will hopefully cure this random detonation problem) and 1.3bar boost. Giving the intercooler a flush out and clean this weekend, I want everything to be 100%, as every other time there has always been a problem that held it back if it can make 205rwkw with a 2.5" dump and exhaust and a 2" gasket on the cat, it should definatly make more with the full 3.5" striaght through drain pipe it has on there now Well done mate, keep that RB20 flag flying Chris