Chris32

Will be very interesting to have a look at thats for sure Whatever you guys are doing to get that sort of power, keep it up! Did GTSt-Vspec's car bend a rod due to injector failure? I cant see anything anywhere that mentions this is correct/incorrect Chris

At the moment I have Bendix ultimates on the back, as I didn't want too good a pad creating rear brakes bias that would send me off the road arse first if I had to brake in a emergency Not sure what the other guys think, but I have always ran a really good pad up front ( Racebrake RB74) and a lesser pad on the back (Bendix Ultimates) Brakes are on the way, should be on by the end of the month Chris

pppfffffftttt.........its only a dyno reading! Those WA Dyno's are like used car sales men in my opinion, the figures they produce are usually way too hi :bahaha: Seriously though, thats impressive power out if stock injectors Steve-SST, I would like to ask you a question in regards to the injectors running almost double the base fuel pressure - would you do it on your car, if you where to build up a RB25? I would hate to see the demise of that guys car due to the failure of a $150 part What casued the bent rod in GTSt-Vspec's car? was that due to the injector not being able to close and hydraulic'ing the motor? I think the majority of people are like me and just want to know 'how' such huge power is made from a 370cc injector, not trying to have a go if it seems that way, just curious Also, whats the limit you have reached with stock RB20 injectors? Chris

Great stuff, excellent time, well done!

pm sent mate

Yeah, a decent diff, especially in a 32, is a huge advantage I reckon! Mods wise I will probably just optimise whats on there, maybe revise the exhaust a bit, decent cold air partition, some R33 brakes up front I have the GTR cams as well, but I reckon once its all sorted out for the time being I will wait until next year and some cooler weather before I do anything else As for the track day, its a presicion driving course orgainzed by Manta Racing, better get in quick if you want to get on board, as there is a maximum of 20 spots for the day. If not, just wait until there is a general practice meet and give it a go, as the course is pretty pricey Chris

Its a HKS acuator, sits at 0.9bar with the boost controller off I think my exhaust can do with some improvement, the front pipe from the dump pipe to cat is between 2.5 and 3", not a full 3". Might go 3.5" dump and front pipe?

Cheers mate, that diff is a ripper! Quite amazing how it has improved the rear end. It feels a tad understeery as it locks up at low speeds, but nothing a bit more steering cant fix, just starting to throw it around a bit now and it feels really good at decent pace Its not as clunky as I would have thought either, its quite easy to drive around the 'clunky' spot by just clutching it around tight corners etc, its quite decent as a daily driver still. I have a track day coming up on the 3rd of december, cant wait to try it Thanks for your help with the diff mate, really appriceate it Chris

Yeah, Clints time is pretty stout for a RB20 I reckon. At the time it was making around 230/240rwkw I think, RB25 box and GTR mech. LSD I have been to the drags once, and I sucked! At the time it was with my previous tune (ie no fuel and no timing in mid-range) and the best I could manage was a 14.0 at 104.9mph, my 60ft was 2.4ish. Axle tramp and diff where the main prob My suspesion was also not well suited for drags, overall I thought my car would run mid 13's, but it wasn't to be Do a few runs just driving of the line, and get a feel for what mph your car is capable of, you will need around 110mph to run a 12, maybe a bit more Have a go mate, be kind to your gearbox too

I think the one your are talking about is MattR's old car (forum member) It had a RB25 in it, I think it ran about 11.7 or 6 on slicks The car was stolen and burnt not long after, so it went no faster Clint32's R32 ran 12.8 on stock internals and injectors, very good time for stock motor

Interesting how RB20's cams seem to be restricting it to peak power just after 6000 rpm, this is very similar to what mine was like on the dyno the other day I installed my PFC boost controller kit on the weekend (Targa Tom, thanks mate!) as mine was dropping of boost after about 5500 rpm, it would drop from 17/18spi to 14/15, peak power was at around 6200rpm, 205rwkw and after that it would drop of pretty quick, with 7100ish dropping back to around 190rwkw Will be interesting to see how the boost controller performs with the boost drop off. If cams are the problem, then I have a set of GTR cams that I could put in later on

Yeah, the injectors are well suited to a bolt on RB20, they are a good match and can be had quite cheaply as well Fitting a PowerFC boost control kit yesterday, so its holding boost alot better than the bleed valve, will have to get it back on the dyno soon to make sure everything is 100% and see what it ends up with (cheers Targa Tom for the help on how to do this ) Initial testing with the new EBC shows that its holding boost up top and comes on a little earlier than the bleed valve, whilst setting it up I was able to run a consistant 1.4bar and it held it pretty well all the way to just over 7000rpm. I can see traction being a issue soon, as soon as it hits full boost, even with the new LSD and really good tyres, it roasts them quite easily So muc fun to drive now, its 200% better than it was with 200rwkw and the old setup

nice mate, lots of grunt and a nice stable boost curve, it doesn't nose over too much up top time to get my ebc working, hopefully for a similar result! I will scan mine in over the weekend for a comparison Chris

will take it pm me for payment chris

Yeah, I am pretty happy with it, and will be stoked when I can use the last 1500odd rpm with decent boost, it should make really good power then It feels like a differant car, so much more responsive and its even got a bit or torque now Still getting used to the diff, those mechanical jobs are pretty noisy, but they don't open wheel at all. Will be interesting to see how your 2 way is Would be good to overlay the runs and see what a extra 1/3rd of motor really does!

My power does a similar thing, Shauns thinking is that my dump/exhaust is a little restrictive, the dump pipe is a cast HKS item, but the front pipe upon measuring isn't a full three inches, more like 2 3/4inch pipe, so there is a little to be had there I think apart from getting the boost controller sorted, I will leave mine as is for the summer and once the weather cools a little then might get my sapre motor's head ported and fit the GTR cams and gears Will definatly catch up when you come over Chris

Good stuff mate, when are you due over? will have to take you for a spin in my car when you are here

My results from yesterday - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...129#post1071129 Chris

Got my car uned last night, recently installed GTR injectors, Z32 AFM and Power FC in my R32, and yesterday it all got tuned - For those who don't know all the other stuff, it has a HKS 25~ series turbo, no one 100% sure but either 2530/35/40, FMIC, Bosch pump, previous tune was quite lean and prone to detonation, so I used to keep the boost wound back a bit, previously it used to make dead on 200rwkw at 0.9bar Also I got them to out in a ATS 1.5way LSD I had recently got (cheers FAT32 ) and fabricate a metal turbo to AFM pipe as well Interesting results last night, all the tuning etc was done by Shaun at Boostworx This is a copy of a email to a few mate, I couldn't be buggerd typing it all twice, so sorry if it doesn't make much sense! - I got there after work and Shaun had just started running it up. I had a look at everything, the inlet pipe is good and does the job well, and the new diff was in and working no probs. Initial runs where showing around 165rwkw at 14psi boost, so we where a bit perplexed to what was going on. We began checking everything, and Shaun discovered that the shootout mode temp correction probe, which should be near the air filter, was in fact right in front of the cooling fan, which was effecting the reading, and I found a few vacuum lines that hadn't been put back right. Next run showed 187rwkw at 14psi, which was looking much better. We wound the boost up to 18spi, but we ran into more problems, as it would get to 18psi really fast and then drop back to around 13psi, making no more power. I had a look around and spotted a intercooler hose connection that looked a tad dodgy, and upon inspection the hose clamp was only on about half of the pipe, so we had a big boost leak, so we put a new clamp on and it all was fixed Next run it peaked at around 210ish back Shaun had to back off as it was showing a bit of detonation, this was at 21psi and around 6000rpm! We dropped the boost back and Shaun made it a tad richer, and it made about 208rwkw but boost was dropping of from 17 to 13/14 psi after around 6500rpm, with the power curve nosing over quite a bit. the most knock it gets is around 25, so its pretty safe We decided to leave it at that, as it was a nice safe tune and we took a degree of timing out at peak torque, so eventually the final figure was 205rwkw, but this is made at around 6400-500 rpm, so still have another 1000rpm with decent boost left once I get the boost controller sorted out .Its getting full boost by about 3500rpm now, so it like a real slingshot when you put your foot down, bugger all lag and just keeps pulling. Once the boost controller is sorted, and holding 17-18psi up top, it should make 220odd I hope. 2nd gear from 60-100 is very fast now, before it felt very laggy, now its very responsive We are also going to replace the dump/front pipe section with something a little better as well, and maybe try some cam gears later on too Shaun said his dyno is down around 10-15rwkw compared to his old one as well, so if i was to run it with the old state of tune he reckons it would have made around 185-190, so its making a fair amount more power now Pretty happy with it, it drives very well and the new diff doesn't open wheel at all! The diff is a bit clunky around town, but its ok and doesn;t open wheel one tiny bit. It feels a little under-steery though corners, I put this down to the diff wanting to go striaght ahead as it locks up pretty quick Happy with the results, as its not running on the ragged edge now, and only a few things left to be optimised now Big thanks to Shaun at Boostworx, as we where there until 8.00 last night. I am sure the neighbours hate the sound of my car by now! Chris

They are bolting everything back on now, pipes and other shit, and tune is happening now I spose. I am leaving here in about 40 mins to go and hopefully see the final tuning etc and drive it home, Shaun reckons it should be all done by about 7ish, as they have to get the car out to make way for a few more booked in for tomorrow Bummer about your car, at least they are not giving it to you until they are happy with it, should be great mate!

I am pretty sure that is correct for the rear brakes, 297mm looks about right

my bro jsut picked up his copy of San Andrea's, just as EB where cutting open the box

I know that the R32 caliper will not accept a 296mm rotor, tried that already from what I can see, the R33 caliper is mounted up a little more to make room for a bigger rotor From what I can gather of the wrecker I am getting them of, its a simple case of unbolting the 32 calipers, put the 33 disc on and caliper and that should be it I reckon you are pretty spot in re master cylinder stuff Chris

I will be going ahead with this, as I have already found some calipers and paid a deposit, just need to know if its going to be a simple task PM me if you want mine and we can sort something out, regards, Chris

Cheers for the info mate, the big thing for me is that they HAVE to fit under my 16" P1's, other wise there is no point me upgrading. The main reason I want to go for the 33GTS calipers is so I run the bigger disk without fouling the rim, and being that bit bigger, hopefully they will do a decent enough job Currently I am running some type of slotted rotor and racebrake RB74 pads, they work well, but I think with a bit more grunt and a upcoming driver training/track day early december, something a bit more substantial is required What do you reckon?