Chris32

I am going to be taking alot of pictures so in the future if someone wants to do the same it will be pretty straight forward Don't forget to get the resistor pack! Chris

As far as I can work out - the PFC Value part is refering to the location of the point of the map, from 1-20, so I am pretty sure its load. I didn't come up with the chart, so I cannot be sure, I just punched in my numbers I had copied of my PFC 136 isn't the biggest number you can go, but I am not sure what it goes up to as I haven't played around with it much. The map that was in there before mine was from BOOSTD's R33, which was running standard injectors and had numbers well over 1000 entered in, but I will add that the fuel map looks pretty average to me, but I am no expert I am trying to find a english manual so I can work out all the functions in the hand controller Chris Chris

Sorry to dig up such a old thread Where is the injector correction located on the hand controller? I am installing some 440cc into my R32 and need to change the injector correction so its at least drivable to get it tuned? My plan is set the PFC to default, and then add the injector correction so it will hopefully be drivable Any info much apprieceated Chris

Here is my fuel and ignition map - got bored at work this arvo :headspin:

It would need to be re-mapped, as they are a much larger flowing injector

Roy has a PowerFC Got all my gaskets and crap just then, so looks like this weekend I should get it all done. Also picked up a boost control kit for the PFC as well Just need to find out if my maps are suitable now or if they are no good, if not I will do as I said in my previous post and default the PFC and use the injector scaling function to drop back the amount of fuel, either way it should work............ Chris

No probs mate, I have ordered my gaskets for the throttle body and AAC valve, they should be in today I have a feeling that my map is for bigger injectors but I will wait to do a quick comparison first. If you guys don't want to post them up you can PM them to me if you want When I get my car tuned I will post up the final map for comparison's sake. I punched in all the numbers into a Excel spreadsheet BOOSTD made up, it all looks to be pretty good, with no big holes or dips in the fuel map Is there a option in the PowerFC to adjust the injector scaling? What I was thinking is if the tune is no good in my car to get me around for a few days before I get it tuned, I could always load the standard map and reduce the overall fuel map by 63% (280 v 440cc injectors, please correct me if I am wrong??) and it should be drivable at least, allthough it wouldn't be seeing any sort of boost before it hits the dyno!! Chris

Ok no probs, I will use some decent pliers, and chase up a few gaskets. Which Nissan dealer did you get your gaskets from? Chris

Hey mate, is the place you are talking about a Liberty/Southern Cross servo or something like that, I have seen one servo selling it out near Tilbrooks, all I remember was it wasn't a big oil company type servo and the owner had a yellow Silvia/180SX Probably just 96 octane unleaded with 15% Toluene added by the owner. Would be good if you could get 100 octane from the pump, BP used to sell 100 octane 'racing' fuel a while ago, I suspect this was avgas Chris

Well, on saturday morning ( I had a few hours to kill before going to a wedding LOL!) I had a look at my spare motor to see if I could locate the power wire going to the injectors As it was a spare, it was all done for a bit of practice, next weekend hopefully I can get it all done Took me about half a hour to get everything off and I found the wire no probs. On mine I traced it from the injectors back up the loom, and it branced off into four, with one wire going down and branching of to three to feed the foward 3 injectors I tested my resistor pack, and it measured 6 ohms on each wire, so looks to be good. How did you guys get the plugs of the injectors? Being a spare motor I tried a few things and the only way I could get them of was by pulling that retaing spring wire thing off but I kept on breaking the little plastic bits off that held that spring in place!! Hopefully there is a better way than what I was doing! All seemed pretty straight forward though, to get the fuel rail out I had to pull the back two injectors out of the rail, as they would foul on a hose going to the plenum Another thing, after taking the throttle body and the AAC valve assembly off the gaskets where buggerd, chances are it will happen when I do it to the motor in the car it will tear them too, can I use gasket paper and make some replacemnets up or are gaskets available from Nissan as a spare part? Other than that, all seems to be not to hard at all How do my maps I have compare to everyone elses? Chris

I have been following this thread for some time, last night I found out my Mum is actually a Neways distributor, and she had the Roil video and everything. I watched it, seems like decent stuff My question is, once its been in the motor, say if I was unhappy, would it be a matter of just changing the oil, or once its in there its treated everything for good? Whats is everyones general opinion? Chris

One Q Roy, is the power wire where it splits into 6 differant wires towards the front/middle/rear of the motor? cheers mate Chris

Dunno what type of car places there are in QLD, for the strut braces there are quite a few on eBay that can be had quite cheaply, otherwise try have a look through the for sale section Springs and shocks are best bought new, as they are a item that does wear out and you don't want to waste money on stuffed up shocks - money spent here now will save you heaps down the track The place that rebuilt my shocks where in QLD, there website is www.shockreco.com.au they should be able to help you out. Last time I spoke to them they had a set of coilovers for a R32GTSt that they where trying to get rid off. Just remember if you buy shocks that you can't personally inspect, make sure they are for GTSt not GTR, as the rear shocks are differant Good luck, if I spot anything I will let you know Chris

ok no probs, should work out well By the looks of it I reckon you are spot on about the exhaust cam being a few teeth out Chris

I mananged to catch up with Roy last night and have a look/drive of his car, very nice setup I am confident with what I have picked up that this shouldn't pose to much of a drama, might even give it a go this weekend if I can drag myself away from watching Bathurst Big thanks to Roy for sharing some of his knowledge Cheers for all the input guys, it has made my mind rest a little from what I have been able to pick up Roy and R31 POWER, can you have a look at your fuel and ignition map ( Roy and I had a look at his last night but we ran out of time) and see if they are similar in the injection table to the ones I have attached - these are the maps in my PFC at the moment When I plugged my PFC in it seemed to run heaps lean, I think the tune it has is for increased fuel pressure or bigger injectors Fingers crossed i get time to do it this weekend Chris

email sent

PM me your email address and I can email you the PDF file Chris

Sure mate , I rang you before but went to message bank, will call again in about 15 So what I have listed , minus the top half of the plnum removal, is about right? Chris

Dunno if they would fit, they look alot like RB25 injectors though If they are low impedence, you could wire in a GTR resistor pack and it should work fine Chris

It needs the same resistance as the stock RB20 injectors, which are High Impedence. Greenline website dude must have gotton confused! Thats why if you want to run low impedence GTR injectors, you must fit a resisitor pack so the ecu doesn't bugger up due to the differance in resistance, whats this whole thread is about

forgot to add, I put front and rear strut braces on as well, stiffened it up a little

Quick question to you all - I have had a few delays and haven't had chance to get them in as of yet. A few questions, excuse me if they sound a bit dumb!! This is my plan so far - 1) Remove crossover pipe, and all vacuum lines that are needed to take the top half of the plenum off 2) Remove top half of the plenum. How hard is this to do? Do you need a new gasket to put it back on? 3) After thats removed, I should have easy acess to the injectors. Remove the tape going to the injectors so I can locate the power wire. 4) Trace these wires from the injectors back to where they branch off into 6 individual power wires from one power wire 5) Wire in and solder the power wire on the resistor pack to the power wire I have just located. Is there any way to tell if its the power wire by testing it with a multimeter etc? 6) Solder each power wire to the injector resistor pack. Can you solder any injector wire to the resistor pack? I think you can, as its just a constant power wire isn't it? 7) Wiring complete 8) Undo the bolts holding the fuel rail to the head 9) Remove rail and injectors. Will the injectors come out easily and in one piece with the fuel rail. If not how do i remove them? 10) Replace the RB20 injectors with the GTR injectors 11) Re-install fuel rail and injectors. Is this a easy task? What are the do's and don'ts? 12) Plug back on the injector plugs and make sure everything is done up tight etc. Can you test wether the injectors are leaking or not fitting well at this stage? 13) Plenum back on 14) all other crap back on 15) Start the car and see if it all works? What do you guys reckon? Chris

I went down the path of jap coilovers, adjustable front camber bushes and adjustable castor rods, alloy cradle bushes, HICAS lock bar and I like the way my car handles. It is quite low, probably a bit excessive (tops of the tyres just under the guards) but its ok The only grizzle I have is jap coilovers are VERY firm in the spring rates (my car will lift a wheel up in the air if going up a steep driveway at a angle etc) Sometimes they are too firm, espeically if the road surface is a bit dodgy. I have also had to get my coilovers rebuilt, so they have ended up costing me more than new local shocks If I was to start from sratch I'd get the bushes and castor rods, swaybars and then get some Bilstein shocks with some decent spings It depends what you want to end up with and how you want your car to handle and your driving style. For a instant improvement its hard to go past lower, stiffer springs and new shocks, jsut make sure you don't go too low and make sure you get at least some adjustable front camber and castor bushes

I am 185 cm and fit in my R32 without a sunroof fine. A bit tight with a helmet on, but I put some R33 GTR seats in a while ago and they sit about 4-5cm lower than the GTS seats, so I fit good now with a helmet. I have my seat quite upright too, and still no headroom drama's Another alternative for R33 owners in seach of headroom is to put some R32 GTSt seats in, I have tried it in a mates car and they give you about 4-5cms more headroom Chris

Still available, in great condition