Chris32

Thanks for the entertaining lunch time read, best of luck getting it running

Thanks for the good read Dan, good to see you'll end up with what you are after. Should go into the premium car inspection business!

Yeah im keen on a front set Adz, will pm you

I can't fault the Intima SS pads, done around 12,000 on them so far and no noise, bugger all dust and rotor wear

By all rounder I assume it's daily driver that see's some spirited driving? I'd recommend the Intima SS as above

Bit of an update on the Intima SS About 6 months in of daily use with these and I can't complain at all about them Gave them their first really good test a week or so ago along my favourite 5km stretch of country road, which really tests the brakes out on the downhill stretches and stopping from faster speeds coming into corners on the uphill section They performed very well, with a slight amount of performance drop after 5 mins of heavy use. Not sure if this was pad or fluid related but I couldn't have been much harder on the brakes and they held up great Looking at the pads I've got around 3/5 of the pad left after 6 months or so, and rotor wear and brake dust is very minimal I do get a tiny bit of brake shudder when stopping from higher speeds with medium pedal pressure - say slowing from 100 to 40 or so turning off highway roads - the kind of normal braking you'd do to stop gently/normally. Stomping on them a bit harder see's this go away

Ok, thought it was too good to be true

If the z32 is genuine and its 50 bucks I'll grab

Thought I'd post up a review of the front tyres I've been running Brand - Dayton DT-30 Size - 225/40/18 on 8.5" rim Kms so far - 20,000 - about 30% left Excellent daily tyre that performs good when pushed. Pretty good in the wet too For 130 bucks a tyre they are excellent. Would buy them again

Didn't realise it was such an old thread

Any pics of the rear of the car with the exhaust fitted? Keen to see how it sat, cheers

Will take the rear set of intima pads if you can chuck them in a cheap post bag to Adelaide?

Spot on Ben, if anything it shows that it kinda doesn't matter as long as it's within a reasonable weight range and changed at reasonable intervals When you've got a track GTR running magnatec and road cars running the most expensive off the shelf oils you can buy, it really comes down to personal preference

Replaced the drivers side rear wheel bearing the other day. That's both sides done and hopefully they last a while! Few snaps after a wash and a drive a few weeks ago, some rare sunshine in between rain this winter

2 year anniversary of ownership

Got this at the Clipsal 500, signed by the Kelly brothers And I have this one in my office too Being a printer I like to show off some good samples

I've got this Terry, guaranteed one only in the world like this because I made it up at work

Any play in the wheel bearings?

A decent amount, I had 33 GTR seats in my 32 GTSt and it gave me a good deal more headroom. Before I'd struggle to fit with a helmet, with the GTR seat I had plenty with a helmet on. 32/33 GTR seats are the same height

Interesting, it's a semi synthetic yeah? What sort of change intervals have you been dropping it at?

I've been running Penrite Racing 10 for almost 2 years now, no complaints From what I understand, this is a Group 4/5 oil? Deciding on if I keep using this, or switch to Nulon Full Synthetic 10-40 Hi-Tech, does anyone know what group this falls into, and if its any better than the Penrite Racing 10?

Bit of an update - The car has been feeling flat, and although it still made good power it had lost the edge it had when it was tuned as per the previous writeup. I kinda figured I'd just gotten used to it, and it was time for some more tinkering! However after a good country drive I noticed the boost pressure was maxing at 0.9bar, which had me scratching my head. A quick check of the controller showed that indeed the set boost pressure was 0.9, and the duty set to around 58%. To this day I have no idea how it was set lower - either my son grabbed it and pressed a few buttons, or when it was setup on the dyno we only upped the solenoid duty cycle and not the target boost pressure, so its adjusted itself back to 0.9 bar from 1.15bar after its seen it was overboosting? Either way, the solution has provided me with an improvement in how it builds boost. I'd never really taken much notice of how the AVCR worked, but setting it up to run 1.15bar again I've improved response coming onto boost as well as holding boost higher in the rev range. Setting the target boost pressure of 1.15bar, I gradually crept up on the solenoid duty cycle a few percent at a time and it's now set at 65% I also played around with the F/B setting on the AVCR, which controls how fast the solenoid operates. This was set at 3, with the selectable range being 1-9 - with 9 being the fastest. I ended up at 6, and it now comes onto boost a lot quicker, and also holds it more up top. I'll have to chuck it back on the dyno to double check this isn't leaning it out but so far, so good! It's got the feel back it had when first tuned now, so I'm very happy

You need a 2.5 to 2 inch 90 degree bend, I got a silicon one from Autobarn for 25 bucks Good luck with turbo sale, perfect on a RB20

Will do

Thread title gone a bit weird, should say Built