Chris32

Still up for grabs, will chuck in the origianl heat sheild as well, looking for $50 plus freight costs Chris

Roy, I think the Motul range has a high level of detergents, whenever I used it, it came out black as the ace of spades, but the oil was still in good condition Maybe try some of that, you can pick that up for a decent price I'd be tempted to stick with Mobil 1, as its what you have trusted and know is a good oil I'm sure it does a good job if cleaning the engine as much as the others The other option would be to drive back on your existing oil, and when you get a few hundred kms from home whack in some of that engine oil flush treatment and then dump it when you get home? I have never used any, so I can't reccomend any particular brand P.S good to see you caught up with a few of the SA boys and girls, sorry I was unable to make it. If you are free this week let me know and we can catch up for a quick beer or sometihng Chris

I got my spare motor from andrewv - good service

Does anyone know if the wire colours on a R32 GTSt correspond with the wire colours in the diagram in the first post? As per Joels post, the S1 R33 AFM plugged into his R32 GTSt and ran like it was a R32 item, just want to be sure before I start cutting wires! Chris

is it a electrical connection? sounds like either the horn or the ambient temp sensor?

Mine sits halfway, with a FMIC and oil cooler in front of it I had the fan come on once, it was on a 45degree day and i was driving off road and very slowly and it came on - its very loud when it does come on!!!! But if it sits halfway, it should be fine

here it is - - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...hlight=John+Lee

I reckon there was a thread on here last week about a guy actually looking at that car, from Yahoo. He had paid a deposit and everything, and took it for a drive and it was making all sorts of weird noises, so he told him that he wants his deposit back, so he was refunded his deposit minus $100 or something as Bl4cK32 says, get it checked, even go as far a to take it to a workshop and pay for them to check it just to be sure Cheap cars are always cheap for a reason

I have a set of RB20 injectors, they are supposed to be 280cc I will have them out in around a week, after about $80, let me know if you are keen Chris

If the brake stopper falls through let me know Chris

Well my original plan was to run a Microtech, but I managed to pick up the PFC for a very reasonable price, so I went with that. Wolf3D crossed my mind, but a tuner I spoke to that would be the one having to tune it reckons they where best left alone........ Plus its plug and play, if I get defected etc I can jsut plug the old computer back in and change a few things I don't think the AFM poses much of a problem/restriction at these type of power levels Chris

I have a Greddy Profec A, works well and want around $240 for it

Are they leaking oil?

I reckon you are on the right track, as I have backed by base timing of a little and it caused a slightly lower and rougher idle I adjusted this using the idle control valve on the plenum, but I reckon a small increase in timing (say around 1 to 2 degrees) should make it better rather than worse

Cheers for the replys, Clint, I thought you had a RB20 AFM - my mistake I bought one this morning, so I have everything now

Yeah was thinking that myself, cheers. I know Clint made 235rwkw with the RB20 AFM, but I guess with the Z32, there will be more 'resolution' so to speak

Getting ready to put all my bits I have collected over the last 6 months on - they include - RB20 Power FC GTR 440cc injectors and resistor pack Stainless Steel exhaust manifold Maybe GTR cams later on $$ permitting Due to my turbo being a bit of a mystery (told is was a 2510, but looks to be either 2530/35/40 but due to tag no matching up no one know) All I know is it makes dead on 200rwkw at 0.9bar and comes on boost at about 4-4500rpm I am hoping for a conservative 220rwkw, running around 18psi boost, maybe 230 with a splash of toluene for dyno days etc I am usure weather to use the stock AFM, or upgrade to a Z32 unit, as thelast thing I want is to get it all running on the dyno and find out that the AFM is maxed out........... Whats everyones opinion? I have read post from Sydneykid that says it should be good for 226rwkw Has anyone else made around that power with the stock AFM, as if its doesn't need replacing, I won't bother! Chris

From what I have picked up, they are basically the same as a RB20DET box

I wouldn't expect a 32 geabox to cope with the extra torque of a RB25T, so I guess thats why they failed Behaind a N/A RB25, like the dude was enquiring about, it should be fine

Just thought I'd add my experience When I bought my car it had just been serviced with Nissan 7.5-30W, and I used it for a few changes, the car was stock at the time I switched to Mobil 1, and found it ok, and used it for around 6 months. The car was serviced and they used Fuchs 5-50W, which felt a little better than the Mobil 1, but went thin really quickly and oil pressure was unstable I then switched to Motul 8100, I used this for about a year, it was pretty good, the oil pressure gauge would be lower than normal, but the stock gauge is hardly reliable I recently switched back to Mobil 1, mainly becasue of the fact the store I went to ran out of Motul at the time. To be honest, it felt heaps better, it even idles better (dunno why but it does) I just changed it the other week, again for Mobil 1 and I couldn't be happier. The Mobil 1 I used was the 5-50W not the really thin stuff. I'd say, from my what I have found, the Mobil 1 seems to be the better. Haven't tried the 300V Chrono Motul stuff, this is supposed to be better again Chris

Any of you guys considered Shannons? I am with them, no extra to pay by the month Chris

Ok cool mine currently has a rev limit of around 8200 with my re-programmed ECU What would be a sensible every day rev limit for a RB20 running about 18 psi boost Agree re oil cooler, I put one on early on, perhaps thats why mine has survived as long as it has

how did they break exactly? What sort of motor where they sitting behind

This is a interesting topic Whats everyone's general opinion about the safe power level (assuming all the support systems are up to scratch) for each RB motor? my understanding is - RB20 - 240-250rwkw with around 7500 as a 'safe' RPM RB25 - 290-300rwkw with around 7300 as a 'safe' RPM RB26 - 300-320rwkw with around 7800 as a 'safe' RPM I think revs and detonation are the real killer of RB's, keep both of them under control and I reckon there is no reason Roy your engine would be under any great deal of more stress Chris

Hi Roy, as you know my RB20 has been going strong for ages, I can't beleive how tough they are! Mine has made a consistant 200rwkw for almost 40,000kms, and the motor has just ticked over 137,000kms I picked up a spare not long ago for $400 as well. One thing I have had on mine for ages is a oil cooler, and I run the oil level a tad higher than normal, just to make sure there is plenty left in the sump. I'd stick with waht you have mate, I have seen Clints setup as it was, it was good for 12's on a stock motor. Your turbo setup should perform quite similarly I have thought about every possible option for my car, and I have decided to use the current turbo and upgrade injectors ecu (as you know already) and just enjoy it for what it is. Clints car that he is building at the moment is a monster, with rebuild RB25/26 etc, but for the sheer cost, as he says, there is 20 grand worth of gear there, I'd be to afraid to break something. RB30's are great as well, but at the end of the day a car is something for YOU to enjoy as a big expensive toy I reckon your car with a few finishing touches, would be a bloody pearler, and tons of enjoyment I'd optimise what you have, oil cooler if you already haven't, and enjoy it ! PM me if you are in Adelaide, wouldn't mind catching up Chris