Chris32

Joels right, they are tough, just that the RB25 box is tougher again! For constant clutch dumps (eg drags or drift) they are know to break, for normal driving they are pretty tough Mine is still going good after 140,000kms, after a stint with semi-race tyres and a trip to the drags, my diff has died but the gearbox still seems good

Great, thats awesome Hopefully mine will be in by the end of the month, just need to find some time to do it! Can't wait now! Chris

I'd try emailing a few of the wreckers and see what they have - either way I reckon you'd have to buy a full set if they are s/h There where a few group buys on jap wheels, do a bit of looking and there should be a few contacts that may be able to steer you in the right direction bummer about the stack, sorry to hear Chris

I'd get rid of the HICAS, replacement kits are available for around $100, and then take the bulb out of the dash Mine used to play up all the time, so it has been replaced with a solid bar, and it works really well - feels much more stable and predictable

yeah, I was lucky, and know of others who have been defected for almost nothing Just my example of how inconsistant the whole system is, and I can only see it getting worse from here with this new law Chris

I am going to hire the movies The Net and Hackers, maybe Swordfish, and that should equip me with the nessacary info to be able to complete the job................. j/k I am sure someone has the knowhow to do it...........

I was pulled over not long ago by a cop on a bike for failing to stop at a stop sign. I rolled through it, and as soon as I did that the lights came on I was polite, said sorry, and he said just don't do it again or there is a pretty big fine - fair enough I reckon My car is quite loud, quite low (tyres just under teh guards) and he was following me for a fair while - it was dark and I thought it was just a normal sports bike, he never said anything about the car at all My boost controller at the time was mounted on my steering coloumn, in full view, not a word said. I think alot comes down to how you treat them - if you get pulled over and get agro, well then they are sure to be a prick back I was polite, and he saw that I didn't mean to do it, and let me off with a warning I think as long as you don't go dropping big skids down rundle street, or dragging people on anzac highway, i can't see the new law effecting many of us P platers look out, as most people think all P platers are hoons! Chris

I agree, the penalty doesn't fit the crime - taking a car away for doing a skid is pretty harsh Might also get the assholes off the street that make owning a fast car so much tougher than owning a dungadore, or at least it will make them think twice before doing something stupid I can see the street drift scene dying off very quickly Will send off a email as well, as its a bit too harsh IMHO Chris

I had a listen, the only one where you can here it is when it drives off in the car park, it sounded ok to me The shots of it running its hard to hear the motor clearly No smoke coming out of it, thats always a good sign Just keep a eye on the knock level on the PFC hand controller Chris

Can't believe there is no great intrest in this car I guess being a 32 owner and having spent the best part of all my money on mine, I can see real value in this car I think the fact is people think of 32's as a cheap performance car, and you can pick them up for under 15 grand, usually a pretty crap example but its a 32. Chances are if you where to buy a cheap 32, you'd end up spending more just get a half decent car at the end! For the 20g's asking price, this car has MASSIVE potential Considering the average 32 seems to go for around 15, for a extra five g's you are getting a truly fast street car, a 2835 should support around 260rwkw on a RB20, which would make it faster than even a midly worked GTR. To put it into perspective, Clint32's car made around 235rwkw and ran a 12.8 at 113mph, with this turbo, and decent tyres and launch, a high 11 low 12 should be possible To buy a stock 32, and to get it to this point, I doubt you would get change from 30 grand, for the 20 grand asking price, this car is a bargain It takes a true enthusiast to appreciate and own a car like this, and no doubt thats the type of person who would buy a car like this, not someone who is jumping on the drift/import bandwagon and is looking for a cheapie to have some fun with Hopefully you will sell it soon, as that old saying goes - spend a little more now, save a heap down the track good luck with the sale Chris

what he said

Great stuff, it all makes it a bit easier for someone like me who hasn't done anything like this before

let us know how you go Chris

any of you guys checked ebay lately? there is a guy selling bits like Nismo keys and gear knobs, the user name is davie3888 not sure, could be a coincedence Chris

cool, looking forward to hearing how it all turns out. Got my injectors back today, had them cleaned and tested, and all is good. Lucky, as one was quite blocked, they were all blocked a little, as they picked up 13% more flow after cleaning them Just have to get some time to wire in the resistor pack and get it all running Will definatly catch up for a beer when you are over, I think its about 8-9hrs city to city drive Chris

Getting my injectors back today, so hopefully will find time in the next week or two to wire it all in If anyone has any diagrams and such, no matter how rough, anything would be apprieceated Roy, any joy with obtaining a copy of your fuel and ingintion map When are you in Adelaide? will have to catch up for a beer or something one night if you are free R31POWER, have you had yours tuned yet? if so how did it go? Chris

I had this problem when i was running mine of a less than optimum power source I also re-programmed mine after I re-wired it, and it seemed to work. I found in the P1 learing mode, drive it around for a good 20-30 minutes boosting it as much as possible so it learns all the ways boost comes on. It will be much more stable from doing this, then press the OTB button so it goes into P2 and give it one more run in 3rd full boost to max revs and it should work fine - hopefully Do you run a small inline filter going to the solenoid?

Kinda, as I found another Profec A control unit on ebay I'd make sure your power and earth wires are located to a good power source and try re-proggraming it again and see what happens I would doubt it would be the stepper motor, they usually just stop working all together Chris

Bl4cK32 has hooked me up with a copy

can you do me a copy? please please please

Waz, can get one if I send you some cash for postage? I'm in Adelaide Cheers, Chris

I think I have got the general Idea now - correct me if i am wrong Wire in the power wire for the resistor pack before it branches off into seperate wires. Connect the seperate wires of the resistor pack with the power wire going to each injector Is this correct? Do you ahve to run new wires from the resistor pack to the injectors or will the old wire be ok Chris

That would be cool. I will try and have a look at the spare motor tonight and see what i can work out, if anyone knows that would be cool. I bit of a base map for low rpm stuff would be cool, chances are I think my PFC is setup for bigger injectors judging by the numbers that are programmed into the fuel map, either way it will be re-tuned to suit, but it would be handy to drive it rather than tow it to the workshop! Will be looking at doing it by the end of the month hopefully, whenever I can get some time off........ Did you guys use the RB20 O-rings or the ones on the original injectors, or did you get new ones? Bloody good thread this for RB20 owners looking at injector upgrades!!!!! Roy and R31, give yourself a pat on the back!

Roy, I have read up on the message you sent me a while back, and have had a good look at the picks, cheers R31 POWER! Does anyone else have any other pics or info that would help? What colour is the power wire going to the injector plug? I have a spare RB20 at home with the injector loom and injectors/rail etc still on it, I might have a go at installing the resistor pack on the spare motor and just swap the whole rail and wiring onto my current motor. Do you guys think this is feasable? BTW - got my injector pack from Mark Tilbrook, spoke to him at a dyno day the other week, he told me if it works, make him a offer, so at the moment it hasn't cost me a cent He was keen to see how it goes Also, does anyone have a map for there PFC to suit GTR injectors yet? Chris

you can pick up a cooler kit for less than a grand if you shop around re-chipped ecu can only be done by a few, should cost around $400 pod fliter around a $100