Chris32

I pulled that of the UAS site, its a modded 33 diff, but if someone could tell if it looked stock or aftermarket it would be a huge help Hows the diff in your car? is it noisy?

is this what it would look like if it was a mech. LSD?

So I will need to take the back plate off to be sure? Anyone have any pics of what I should be looking for? Chris

G'day chaps, quick question - my diff is whining and getting a little clunky, looking to replace it. I can get a good stock diff for $250, or thinking of going to a mechanical LSD Thought about getting a GTR diff, but too hard for me as it invloves swapping alot of parts. Does anyone know anywhere that has one available for R32 GTSt? Also how do you tell between a aftermarket mech. LSD and a stocker? A few wreckers I have spoken too don't know how to tell the differance, and i am thinking if I can go and have a look, I may be able to pick up a bargain Regards, Chris

cheers mate, thats where I was planning to go, I live at Upper Hermitage so its just down the road. Times very differant to last year, as it went through really early, about 8.30 Will keep a eye out for you, thanks Chris

pm sent, it yours

pretty sure its the same - Apex AP Engineering PFC has the same part number, 99% sure anyway Chris

:werd: living in the hills, I see a fair bit of this. Just makes it worse for everyone else. I am all for a 'spirited' drive through the hills, but stupid shit causes nothing but trouble for EVERY import driver

I get that a fair bit, been followed about 8 or 9 times, only pulled over once becasue I failed to stop completley at a stop sign I think its par for the course these days, there are so many f*wits with imports now doing stupid shit, the cops are keeping a eye out for all imports Just a case of a few people spoiling it for everyone else Chris

Can anyone tell me what time the Hannafod Hump stage is on saturday and sunday? Thinking of popping up for a look Cheers, Chris

Try searching the wreckers for a late model Supra pump, supposed to be greater flow than GTR pumps, they are made by Denso, possibly the same as Big_boy is reffering too. I had a mate install one in his 32, it seems to work well, he is making around 200rwkw If not, get a new Bosch 040 in tank pump, they can be had for around $250-300 Chris

A mate of mine paid about $300 each here in Adelaide They have lasted ages as well, very hard wearing tyre. I'd say not the best tyre going around (many people bag them( but they arne't too bad

will bolt on no probs, need GTR latch though I have one on my car

I have seen a 'club lock' broken within 15 seconds, all done with a deoderant can..... by spraying a can of those dry type deoderants onto the steel shaft, it freezes it within about 20 seconds, and then with a decent whack, it snaps like a stick remember on Terminator 2, that dude gets frozen and smashes really easy, same thing That yellow thing looks the go, use one of those a a couple of big nasty rottys tied to your car You can get those flame things in Sth Africa, one of those would be good to have Will try and find a few pics

agreed, bbenny - I have also been thinking long and hard about my setup. My thoughts have varied from fitting a RB26 or RB25, to getting a bigger turbo for my RB20 etc. I have decided to optimise what I have, and enjoy it. My setup is very similar to yours (bolt on turbo, stock ecu re-chip etc) and I'd reckon injectors and programmable ecu would be the way to go, then cams etc. Those turbos are hard to beat on a bolt on Rb20 setup, with programable ecu, injectors (GTR or similar) and maybe some cams to go with your cam gears, there is no reason you cannot get to 240rwkw. The best part about optimisin what you have is you don't have to pay for a new turbo, and everything will be working to its full potential If you where going to rebuild the motor, port the head etc, it would make sense to get a turbo more suitable to the potential of the rebuilt motor If you are going to keep the motor stock, and whack a set of cams and injectors in, spend the money on a ecu and make the most of what you already have - it would be a awesome package, with great average power rather than a huge last 1500rpm Would be a heap of fun and be really respponsive and thats what its all about I reckon Chris

give it a shot then, its only oil and its not hugely expensive

Well its in, I used the lightweight stuff, its blue Only done about 100kms, but already noticed no crunching from 3rd to 4th under load. This was the reason why I put it in, so the problem has gone and I am happy The previous gearbox oil wasn't that old either, so I would say its just a case of the redline stuff being a better oil Enrico - worth a shot, maybe jsut change the oil with some cheapish stuff first?? see it if fixes it Chris

so do you have the window seals?

I had mine done by City Discount Tyres at Modbury, very good job They use a heat gun to stop the paint from cracking too, $50 per corner and took about 1/2 hour

I had a peep under Clints bonnet over the weekend - will be a absolute weapon I reckon Freebaggin is on the right track with the turbo selection, if anyone can come up with a turbo to suit your applicaztion on paper, he can, as he put ALOT of time into selecting his and graphing almost every available option to suit RB25 Can't wait to see it in action, cheers for letting me use the hiost mate, thanks heaps Chris

Yeah, fits alot of bodykits, and does a good job from what I have seen There was about 5 or 6 cars at Autosalon with nice kits on, that they had done

cool, sounds like a good setup you have there. I run a decent oil cooler myself, and a similar turbo to yours. Only have done one trackday of about 25 laps, but it kept it nice and cool Chris

interesting, as the place where I bought it says that they have used it in many cars, and have no problems at all. Everyone who I have spoken to locally have nothing but praise for the stuff I guess there is only one way for me to find out if it will work for me I will be sure to post the results up anyway

good stuff matt, will keep a eye out for it

70 laps would see the complete breakdown of your engine oil, almost to a water like state, hence the problem with the lifters. Do you have a oil cooler? What sort of oil do you run? In regards to idle problem, AAC valve is usually the culprit