Chris32

I am pretty sure the reason for the odd pop while it idles is due to the car having a re-chipped computer more than anything, as it runs quite rich at idle, always has ever since it was done, rather than the injectors being clogged up. Funnily enough, now that the car has a few km's on the new plugs (about 250kms so far) it seems to be coming good. Anyone have a digital camera pic of the idle control valve? Maybe it needs adjsuting since that it has all the hoses connected properly now with no leaks? Granted, it might be worth cleaning them, but they are being replaced shortly so your right, I cbf'd cleaning the stockies

I run FM901 225/50/16 on a 7.5"rims, 32-34psi gets the best out of them Over 40 is a tad too high, and your tyres will wear the middle out a bit quicker. Also should get less grip at lower pressure too, but all depends on the tyre itself

red/brown - normal with good AFR's black - rich AFR's white - lean/hot - not good

Don't think its injectors, as it idled fine with larger plug gaps All the old plugs where the same red/brown colour, so no cylinder running rich or lean, so I a pretty sure the injectors are ok. I ran some injector cleaner about a month ago, and the fuel filter has only done minial kms Runs really good now!

Changed the plugs on my car on the weekend. It was running a little ruff, and had been a while since they where changed. Having never change plugs myself before, I decided to have a go, and discovered a few interesting things - 1) The hoses to and from the carbon cannister where missing clips, and one was disconnected. 2) Hose clamp from intercooler pipe to throttle body was loose enough to slide around by hand 3) Igniter module was mounted upside down, and earth wire loose. Now all of this would have been removed the last time I had my plugs changed, and was never put back properly. This was done by a well know workshop here in Adelaide, and I was a little dissapointed to find all of this Upon removing the plug cover, all the coils looked on good health, no wires looked damaged etc. Took the coils out and changed my plugs, replaced the platinums with a set of NGK BCPR6ES, which are copper. Gaps where checked and set to 0.8mm. Put back all the coils etc I decided, just by chance to check how far open the throttle acutally was a full throttle. I had my g/f step on the pedal, and whatched the butterfly, and it was a fair way of fully open! I was amazed, I had always wondered, if it was the case. 10 minutes later, with it adjsuted (if you have ever adjusted brakes on a push-bike, its the same type of adjustemnet) I had my throttle fully open when the pedal was fully depressed I put all the pipes back on, connected all the hoses up,including the ones that where not correctly put back last time. Made sure everything was done up tight, including all the vacuum lines that where previously dodgy It fired first time, and I was stoked!! After a quick drive to get it all warmed up, the combination of new plugs and a throttle that is open FULLY, the car feels awesome, like its never felt before. It comes on boost much faster now, and seems to pull much harder through the mid-range, where before it felt quite laggy. Also idles much better, although it misses a little, I think this is becuase of the plug gaps more than anything, as once a tad of throttle is applied, it goes So anyone else thinking of changing your plugs, it isn't hard, and also check all your fittings for loose/missing hose clamps etc Very happy with the results, feels like a new car Chris

Hmmmmm........ well at least it looks like everyone is having no probs with the installation as such, just the nature of the ecu stopping the whole thing from working Will be interesting to see how it goes with the PFC Roy

Thats cool mate, no probs. Let me know when and I'll be there to grab them, Regards, Chris

Looking for intrested buyers for the moment, if anyone thinks they might be keen in the next few months let me know, cheers Price is just a ballpark at the moment

well it is for sale if someone want to buy it for that price

As title says, thinking about starting a new project/car Wanting to know if there is any intrest in my car - 1993 R32 GTSt M-spec- 120,000km 5 speed with 4.5kg cromoly flywheel and Extreme ceramic clutch HKS GT series turbo (either 2510 or 2530 no one 100% sure) 0.9 bar 200rwkw Custom FMIC, 600x300x65, with heat wrapped piping Full 3' exhaust with Apex'i N1 muffler (mounted on a angle type) Re-mapped ECU by Tilbrooks Bosch 040 500hp fuel pumpp Full Quantum coilover adjustable shocks, with HKS pillowball upper mounts, set to a quite low drift style look (tyres just under guards) Slotted DBA front rotors and Racebrakes pads, with performance pads rear HICAS lock kit, adjustable front camber arms Pillowball front caster rods MOMO Corse leather steering wheel with HICAS boss (not needed due to lock kit) Blitz boost gauge/ Turbosmart boost controller/ HKS style pod filter Front and rear strut braces Kenwood CD player with Pioneer front speakers Buddy Club P1 Racing rims 16x7.5 with 225 wide tyres. Rear guard professionally rolled GTR style Sideskirts and rear pods Nice and dark tinted windows all round Not sure if I would keep the wheels or sell with stockies with new tyres, as they are a personal favourite of mine Also have GTR bonnet, grill and latch that I was going to fit, GTR rear boot with lip spolier, Stainless exhaust manifold, GTR cams, spare RB20 motor, RB26 440cc injectors. If I keep it, I ahve serious plans for it The car has always had oil changes EVERY 3500KMS!!! with Mobil 1 or Motul fully synthetic oil and genuine Nissan Oil filters All major work was undertaken by Tilbrook Auto and Dyno, general servicing I looked after myself i.e oils/filters etc I paid 23,000 for the car and have spent almost 11,000 on it, so if I could get around 19,000 that would do me. Not for sale yet, just gauging intrest, may also sell for less with some of the parts replaced for stock Would like to know if anyone is keen on such a car, if so please reply and or email me - [email protected] Cheers Chris

Yeah, I reckon unless I could sell it to someone I knew or of the forums I'd take alot of the decent stuff out, and sell it closer to stock, I reckon 17,000 is pretty good value, as it is a 93 model, not a 89 model I have a heap of spares for it too, GTR bonnet + grill + latch, spare motor, new S/S exhaust manifold, GTR cams, all waiting to go on if I don't sell it. Interesting to get a idea of whats it worth though, I guess it all comes doen to what someone wants to pay for it Here's a pic as well Chris

hmmmmm............. Has anyone else here sold one, I;d be keen to hear what they got for them Chris

ok, what about if it was standard?

After a idea what everyone reckons my cars worth, details as follows...... 1993 R32GTSt - gunmetal grey 120,000km genuine HKS GT2510 turbo - makes 200rwkw at 0.9bar boost FMIC 600x300x65 Re-mapped ecu by Tilbrooks Bosch 040 fuel pump DBA slotted rotors and racebrakes pads Extreme 12 button ceramic clutch with 4.5kg cromoly flywheel Buddy Club P1 racing wheel 16x7.5 with new Dunlop FM901 tyres 225/16/50 R33 GTR front seats Quantum coilover adjustable shocks all round Greddy Profec-A boost controller Hicas lock kit, and adjsutable front camber arms car is in great condition What are everyone's thoughts? May be selling it in the near future, would I get more if I took all the good stuff of and sold the car as standard, and then sold all my parts? Cheers, Chris

will be interesting to see...... I think the issue everyone was having is that there is more air for every revolution (having greater lift on the GTR cams) being pumped through the engine,and the stock computer can't work it out. Would be intersting to see if the programming would still work at WOT, as it would be relying on the airflow meter signal to determine how much air is going in.......... Will be good to find out if it is the case

Couldn't agree more - all down to one thing I reckon - Managment, or the lack of. A programmable computer is a 'must have' I think Chris

so whats the go with the clay bars? I have never seen one or been told how to use one? do you just rub it on the paint? I am sure everyone who has never used one is curious too...............

also - I have seen with a mate, a Nissan Urvan with drift tengoku and nismo sticker on it......................must be a drifter

good thread - keep it up. I have had my fair share of delaing with young people who think they can drift, as I live in a semi-rural hills area about 10mins from the suburbs which has some nice twisty roads, hows this for dodgy - Top of our driveway, there is a gravel area the council use for roadworks etc, its pretty big. We live on one side, and on the other side is a heap of gum trees and another property. The road itself is pretty decent, its even a stage of the classic adelaide rally. It seems to attract P platers, who like to spin there wheels and make noise etc. One night, a young guy down the road, who just got his P's, decided to impress his mates. They where getting a bit of a run at the gravel and hanging the ass end of the cars out, trying to drift. The speed then got a bit greater, and instead of the car sliding on the gravel, it dug in a little. This then had him doing 80kmph, half sliding and heading rapidly towards a gum tree. He hit it head on, and as his mates where trying to show off, they have decided to do a bit of a 'team drift' like they show on those dvd's. He hit the tree, bounced back onto the road, and his mate that was following cleaned him right up, at 80kmph. This was 8 months ago, and both drivers sufferd huge injuries, both where close to dying. Neither of them can walk un-assited and maybe never will, one of them was a son of one of my mums mates. Both admitted they where trying to 'drift' I also have had several close shaves with dudes trying to drift, one of which nearly cleaned me up head on. One thing in common - all in shitbox cars, P plates I am a fan of drift, I like watching it, and believe there is a place for it. To do it on public roads is a accident waiting to happen, and in my case, each time I leave my driveway I am reminded of this - save if for the track, where there are less chances of hurting yourself and others I reckon the 'drift' scene and image is getting out of hand, probably is also one of the reasons for increased police attention to import owners Proper drift - on a track = good dodgy drift out the front of peoples house = dumb ass Rant over, Chris

very cheap, someone should snap it up in a second!!! bump

any updates??

keep it up guys, I am sure a solution isnt far away, and all the basics where done correctly, good luck Chris

Thats what I am thinking, no matter what, adjustable managment is vital............

sorry to hear about that meshmesh, but that doesn't surprise me at all. I have never met the guy, but from what I can gather from posts on these forums it doesn't surprise me at all best of luck finding another car if you are in the market for one. There is a sweet R34 V-spec for sale over here, from all accounts its immaculate and stock standard, in as new condition. Bayside blue in colour, was on carpoint.com.au, and I have seen the car in my area, the best car I have ever seen up close http://carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/marketplace...o=1&chkRows=500 Best of luck, Chris

yeah, would be worth a shot. Doesn't bother me, as I am going to change managment anyway, but for others it makes for a expensive process