Chris32

Yeah that's what I've always thought, at least they are plastic and not fibreglass - the kids always seem to be kicking them getting in and out

They are the factory optional parts, the wrecker that I buy parts from reckons it was a Nismo option. Wouldn't surprise me given the amount of factory fitted Nismo parts. Got them brand new from Nissan - part number 65829-AA000

I drove a converted N/A to turbo, it was running around 7 psi boost with a Greddy E-Mange running the tuning side of things It was ok - however it wasn't perfect. It was a 5 speed conversion too, using a RB20 gearbox. Overall it drove ok, however the cost involved in the conversion the guy said he wouldn't do it again and would have bought a factory turbo car. I drove a factory turbo 34, but an auto - and this car ran a whole heap better To his credit, he put the turbo brakes on, and it looked like a factory install, but it still had the N/A diff which let the whole thing down in my opinion. If dropping sick single peggers to inpress your mates is your thing - you'll love it However, the N/A has P-plate appeal, so I'd be selling it and buying a turbo car to start with

Bit of an update, more for me to keep records of servicing etc 5000km service (120,000km total), Penrite Racing 10 and went for a genuine Nissan oil filter. They gave me a slightly smaller filter than the old faithful Ryco Z145A, seems to work just fine. New air filter Replaced the rubber bonnet stops as these had been squashed over time with the weight of the GTT steel bonnet. Cheap at $8 ea Decided the brake pedal was feeling a touch 'off' so I re-bled the brakes, again using the Motul RBF600 fluid. Almost 12 months since I'd flushed it last, so not a bad time to do it. Pedal feel has improved, so I'm guessing the working life of this fluid is around 12 months. Had a bit of spare time, so I went the little bit further with the wash this time and pulled off the rubbers around the boot and door seals and cleaned out all the crap built up over the years. Found a few tiny spots were some corrosion had started, so I cleaned that up with a bit of metal polish and sprayed a dab of RP7 on it. I'll clean it up and treat it with some rust paint when i get a chance! Gave the front end bushes a quick spray with RP7 also to get rid of some of the tiny squeaks, but a few days later they are back - will grease these proprely when time permits

it's like a dark metallic grey bronze, cool colour!

Polished up with the new rim colour

Was a bit tired of the rims so I picked up some plastidip at lunch. Colour is called Anthracite Metallic Gray, although it's Gray it does have a hint of bronze to it. Pretty much exactly what i was after Transformed these rims, really happy with how it's turned out!

I've always used a dab of autosol and cleaned up the rust spots, and then used touch up paint and a fine brush to dab a bit of paint in the chip. Seems to work pretty well, with any luck you might be able to get your local Autobarn or similar to mix up a small tin of paint for less than $20. They'll just need the paint code off your VIN plate

http://store.allsprings.com/nissan-5x1143-to-bmw-5x120-20mm-wheel-adapter-p3882.aspx

So is the OP......... I can't see a oil cooler pulling that sort of heat out of the oil though

Interesting, I can't see how your oil can get that cold. My car runs a similar sized cooler in the same location without a thermostat and my oil gets up to around 70 in a few kms and settles at 80 for the rest of the drive / until you give it a sustained bootful. Running the Penrite Racing 10 too. What sort of gauge are you running and where is the temp sensor located?

Anyone used the Bowden's stuff?

Still have this if anyone is keen

Time for a bit of an update, all maintainece or cosmetic. Plasti dipped the weather shields black and they've come up pretty well. Added a leather cover to the steering wheel which fits great and enhances the wheel nicely De-badged the rear, really tidied it up and makes the lights and the lip spoiler the eye catching items which suits the car well. More servicing, with the Penrite Racing 10 selected. Magnetic sump plug has been a good addition with the smallest amount of metal finding it's way onto the magnet. New boots on the front, went with some Dayton 225/40/18's and for the money they are great! Review posted in the tyre thread.

I've always worked of the R34 GTR rims when it comes to a really good fit on a GTT - they are 18x9 +30

Bugger, happened to a mate of mine when his aftermarket bov fell apart and it got sucked into the turbo Best of luck getting it back up and running

Thought I'd throw what I've been running into the mix. ~200rwkw R34 Sedan running Nismo S-Tune suspension. Previous tyres I've run over the years include Bridgestone Potenza SO3, Bridgestone Potenza RE55S, Dunlop FM901, Dunlop LM702, Toyo Tranpath TA-SW, Bob Jane Xenon to name a few and see what I draw comparisons to. The last few tyres purchases have come down to budget mainly, and the use that the tyres will experience - basically a daily driver that experiences some nice twisty roads to and from work Been running Kinforest KF550 in 265/35/18 on the back for the last 6 months. Overall I've been pretty impressed with these tyres for the price, I think they were around $150 fitted. Dry grip - Good to Excellent Road Noise - Very Good Wet grip - Good Lateral grip - good Squeal when breaking traction - Fair Wear - Very good - around 75% left after around 9,000kms Just picked up a set of these for the front the other week - Dayton DT30 - https://www.bridgestonetyres.com.au/dayton-dt30 Again, after a reasonably priced tyre with decent sidewall and grip for the front. Initially I was going to try the Achilles ATR sport for around the same price but thought I'd give these a go. Size I fitted are 225/40/18, at $140ea. They've just scrubbed in nicely and I'm very happy with them, comments based on essentially a new tyre that's done a few weeks driving. Dry grip - Excellent Road Noise - Excellent Wet grip - Very Good Lateral grip - Very good, sidewalls are quite stiff for a cheaper tyre Squeal when breaking traction - N/A being on the front For those after a budget orientated tyre I can't complain with what I'm running at the moment. The cheaper end of the market is improving its offering from what I have seen

Sounds pretty good, who does the engineering certification in SA?

This is how I want it to sit - it's got about 80kg of paper in the boot It's low enough at the front, just the back I'd like to get sitting a bit lower

Just googled it, so similar setup to a 4wd spring spacer which just sits on top of the spring. Could be an option

Mmmm, never really thought of that. Does that sit on top of the strut? I've got plenty of thread on the nut even with the strut brace. That would transfer a bit more weight to the back as well I'm guessing, which wouldn't hurt

Found this - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112276 and this - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/36298-reset-springs-absolutely-dont-do-it/

Yeah I thought about taking it to a spring/suspension place here and seeing if they can reset the height. For the hassle of taking them out I may as well replace the springs

My R34 sits at 340mm front and 350/355mm at the back on Nismo S-Tune springs/shocks - no form of height adjustment in terms of adjustable circlips etc. Ideally I'd like to drop the back 10/15mm as it bugs me how the back sits up a fraction, all the lines and styling on the 34 Sedan angle towards the front which highlights the back being just that bit higher. Having had 4 different sets of adjustable suspension in my old 32, I can't think of anything to do other than replacing the rear springs. The nismo shocks look to have a pretty standard spring seat so different springs should fit. Anyone have any idea's how to achieve such a small drop easily? I can't think of anything other than replacing the springs?

Funny reading everyone's opinion! Power is addictive that's for sure, and part of the thrill is taming that extra power I guess. I've always found that around 200kw makes for a well balanced street car, which is quick through twisties and comes into power quickly. Up to 250-270kw really isn't much faster driving on roads when your driving from say 60-100km/h braking and accelerating, if it's a laggy 250kw then it will be slower.