Harry50601

Geez everyone has done their time cruising/street racing as a kid (late teens sorta thing) and really if u "line" a car up at the lights you really "assume" they are giving it 100% and yea maybe if it was a show room spec 2010 wrx or fresh rebuilt Gts-t rb20det then corolla probably would have difficulty "keeping up". Just to clarify I do own a r32 with a modded s1 rb25det, and hell no I would say the rolla would even have a chance on anything. But just denying the comment totally being in a skyline forum sounds absolutely childish. Some members just need to be more open minded and start accepting yes, some nanna wagons will perform just as well as your 22 yr old factory worn out wat-used-to-be a performance machine!

friend of mine had one with the above mods was keeping up with non sti wrxs/factory gtst with ease, pity never dyno'd or put on the strip before he sold it.

If its got the 1ZZFE 1.8L VVTi Motor, i would put a set of extractors and 2 1/4 inch hi flow exhaust right thru, alloy intake pipe with cold air box. Suspension just go for known brand spring kit. Also recommend to upgrade the clutch at the same time.

delete. google it shouldnt be too hard source.

AVS series they are pretty decent. I guess the combination of decent quality product and installer quite important too. But at the end if the scumbag want your car they'll find a way to take it. Prolly get what you pay for it, Ive got the A4 model, just a 4star rating alarm, build-in turbo as the bonus function.

just a quick thoughts on gapping the spark plug to solve misfiring problems, im mean like down to 0.6mm n under. would it cause "heat spot" on the piston?

sort of got it wired up, 2 wires coming out the solenoid. Run through fire wall, one wire goes to 12v constant (cigarette lighter 12v) and one go straight into left bottom 5th socket , ie pin #113. I was being experimental, so I wired up to a constant earth, the turbo whistle much louder but lack of power from 5k rpm to redline as you said, and also I noticed when I am slowing down to about 30 odd ks in 3rd or 2nd gear it knocks (I guess it's because of the extra air=lean?). So I swapped around the wiring to the ecu, runs fine now but I shouldn't be expecting a VTEC kick sorta thing right?

I had a look at the solenoid connectors last night, one prone is bigger than the other but as Elite Racing stated doesn't matter which way it goes. I'll try do it tonight, one goes on to the 12v + terminal on the battery which eye connector and other wire just route it with the loom through the firewall into pin#113 on the ecu? What sort of connector do i need to use for connecting to ecu or the factory plugs already got the provision to take a wire? Thanks heaps guys, I'm one more step closer to get the car running as it should be

Oh I get you now, so If i wanted to i could simply run 12v constant and earth and a simple on/off switch to control vct? and#113 pin is correct.

sorry to be such a noob..so earth just go on to any earthing point of the chassis and constant to the pin out on the ecu? forgot to say power fc is gonna be replacing the factory ecu in a few weeks time, still ok to just wire the vct solenoid to the ecu this way?

cheers boys..but how exactly do I do that, I no longer have the factory r33 loom, any other way I could hook it up from the connector?

Hi guys. Awhile ago I completed a engine conversion on my r32,using r33 rb25det series 1 motor. The way I did it was using factory r32 rb25de loom with r33 rb25det injector plugs and matched up with r33 rb25det ecu. Since r32 does not have vct therefore there's no plugs/pin outs in the loom to the ecu. I've since left the vct plug vacant. But I would like to know whether I could just somehow earth them so vct's constant on.

Just a quick question people, would I be able to use a R34 GTT in a R32? Does everything bolts up?

Hey guys, Just about to start the 5 stud conversion this weekend on my r32 4 dr, just wondering if anyone know if I was going to ask my brake specialist to make a set of brake hose up what should I ask for? btw, wreckers cut off all the lines pretty much ~10cm to the caliper so if anyone know what length i need also it would awesome. + any instructions on how to remove the old (cut) handbrake cable from the r33 hub and adapt the r32 factory handbrake cable to the r33 hub would be much appreciate!

oh right, so both will bolt straight up to a r32 GTS25 w/hicas no additional part needed? Thanx

Hey guys, I've recently built a r32 GTS25 with s2 25DET. I am planning on a 5 stud conversion, having hard time deciding whether to go for the R32 M-Spec setup or the R33 25t setup. As far as I know if I go for the R32 option I wouldn't need to replace the master cylinder/brake booster? If so is there anything additional I'll need to do if I go for the R33 25t option? The reason for that is that R33 seems to have a bigger caliper and at the moment I am pumping out around 200-250kw without a proper tune. but ultimate goal would be 400kw+.