Grunta

Joe's GTR - is that the yellow R33 GT-R thats been sitting there for months after he went from third gear into second at full rev's and blew the shit outa the motor? Was at MW's picking up my 34, after I snaped a brake line (but now i got braided lines , when he was putting the sump back on it, looks real nice, too bad he didnt have the dosh to upgrade to a couple of larger turbo's with all that internal work that was done.

There is also these ones http://www.tuneagent.com.au/public/merchan...Item.aspx?id=22, they also fit the R34's. Australian mob plus they come with a 1 year warranty. Look to be of pretty good quality, and for the price you cant go wrong. Just orderd some myself, so gonna see how they go.

Mine just arrived, TNT truck pulled up the same time I got home, good timing. Now its just a matter of fitting them.

33drifter, dont forget to bed the pads in, new or old pads regardless, should bed them in.

Anyone recieve their rotars yet?

Hey guys, been reading through the pages and a few have gone the DE+T option. Im kinda thinking of going the DET swap. get a halfcut and just drop in a complete RB25DET. I have a GT-V so I already have the brakes and all other GTT parts (cept for traction controll), Im thinking I could do it cheaper, buy a halfcut and sell my current engine, mabey even do a swap with a jap parts shop. Am I right in thinking if I get all the parts, ecu, wiring, piping, it would be just a simple engine drop in and away I go? Are the NA auto boxes the same as a GTT's ? Can anyone point out any flaws in this plan? Thanks

Just an update. Thanks for the info guys, went over to MW performance and was very happy with the quality of work. Marty is a pretty friendly guy and knows his stuff. And the price was very reasonable, definatley going to go back there for all my mechanical needs.

Hey guys and girls. Im neraly due for my first service on my R34 and am looking for somewhere on the coast that knows at least something about the skylines. Looking for a shop preferably between maroochydore and caloundra. Thanks for the help

Is it just me, or does this read like a joke? seriously sounds like some 15 yr old with no life just making random posts to get people to pay attention to him. And if it is true. Then serves you F-ing right. Driving around with no licence with no insurance. what if you hit another car ? how you going to pay for the other person's car? what if you hit a 150k bmw or something similar. u would be up shit creek. Better of been registered at least. cause if you hit a person and crippled them for the rest of their life, how would u pay then?! People like this give any young driver a bad rep and dont deserve a car, having a car is a privilage not a right.

I agree with you there, It does start to get a bit pricy, by the time you throw on HPC coating and then have to get them fitted. But hey, at least it isnt as much as the turbo guys have to pay for a better manifold and dump pipe, and as you can see from my dyno graph, they did make a fairly nice increase and made the engine sound nicer. If you are serious about getting more power out of your NA, you cant go past the exhaust system. Plus you might as well do it first and have it sounding so nice while you drive around. Just an update on my system, I got a hot dog put on today, as even tho that car sounded bloody fantstic, it was a bit much all the time. So now it still sounds fantastic, but I can also live with it as my daily.

I'm kinda lucky I bit the bullet and went in first. DKNE done me a faily decent deal. I got the extractors, HPC coating, con pipe, cat replacment pipe (rrp $88) and postage all for $675. They are really well made tho and worth the money in the long run. Ive got much better response and more power in my mid range. The exhaust guy also mentioned they are pretty decent and really well made.

Hey guys, Been running around now for a few weeks and havnt really missed a beat. The first tank of fuel after getting them fitted I noticed I lost a bit of fuel ecconomy, but I not sure if it was just due to the fact the car was running at a higher fuel mix ration (seen on my dyno) or because I loved the sound my engine was making and reved it all the way out for the next few days. I reset the ecu (disconected the battery) drove it around for a while, and now it seems to be back on the beat. I think the ecu has learnt that its only reading half of the exhaust gases and is now giving a better air/fuel mix. Today, I also got the rest of my exhaust system fitted up. Just a custom at a local exhaust shop. 2.5inch mandrell bend from the cat back, straight into a sports muffler, with twin chrom tips out the end to keep the stock look. But boy does it sound great. havnt taken it on the highway yet, but I dont get much of a drone, sounds great revving up, and settles down at crusing speed. so now I have a full exhaust system, dkne extractors - 2.5" piping - cat - 2.5 inch piping - sports muffler. so far, im pretty please with the results. Now I just need to get my car fine tuned for the new set up. Hey Eug, do you know anywhere in bris that can tune the 34 ecu's ?? I know they cant do much, but just a small adjustment to get my 34 running at its best.

Does anyone know of anywhere on the coast that can tune the stock ecu's in R34's??

Hey Guys, Finally got them fitted, only 4 weeks sitting in my garage. And first impressions are they are Great. A real noticable increase in power in the mid range. Got it dynoed before and after. it gets a nice increase in the mid range and only about .3 of an increase in peak power, but I wasnt expecting an increase at all. They improve the sound of the engine (imo) dont have a zorst tho, (thats the next step) and then it should sound sweet. here are some pics of them fitted, (cant really see much), and the dyno graph. Does anyone have a set of the cobys and a before/after dyno?

Hey guys, it isnt much, but i just got a wing fitted to my NA, looks like the stock wing, but sits a bit higher up. I think it looks pretty good.

I have a set of them, Sitting in my garage atm. just been paid so now im going to organise getting them fitted.

Spotted 5 lines while I was out for a couple of hours 3 of them were in the Myres side car park all within 20 meters of each other. this was around 11:30 - 12:00 1 White R34 Coupe (NA) 1 Black R32 Coupe 1 Black R33 Coupe and then 2 more lines driving towards Maroochy on Nicklin way 1 White R33 Coupe 1 Silver/grey R33 Coupe There are a lot of 33's on the coast

<rant> F'ing 4wd's, Driving up the highway on wednesday, right hand lane behind a 4X4 (one of the big ass F'ers) and some black thing hits bonnet and then my windscreen. lucky I was wearing my brown jocks. at first I thought it was a stupid crow or something, didnt think much of it. got home later that day. walked around the front of my car and there was a huge black streak stright up the middle of my bonnet (white car, black streak = stands out like dogs balls) gave it a rub and it smudged a little, which I was thankful for, I then followed the streak all the way down to the front of my bonnet and found the lip of it was bent in. only slightly, but still bent. I then figured out what hit my car, some big ass piece of tyre, Most likely from a truck who drive on their tyres until they explode (litterly, becasue they have so many, they drive on them when they are completly smooth and then they everntually shred) So F'ing truck drivers, and the stupid 4X4 driver. who the hell drives straight over the top of a piece of tyre. its lucky tho that it hit my bonnet first and then my windscreen, if it had enough force to bend my bonnet, I reckon it would of cracked my windscreen. </rant>

Car: R34 4 door Mods: NA - Completly stock Driving style: I'm fairly mild, but will rev it out every now and then Driving conditions: its about 50/50 drive up and down the highway alot for work. Fuel Brand: I mostly fill up with BP ultimate (98 ron) Lt's for a full tank: around 50ltr's when im on empty (I fill up just when the light comes on) KM's per tank: Im getting between 480 - 500 per 50 ltr's

Fuel economy... lol its small, but its something im just wondering what sort of range everyone is getting in their NA's Just copy and paste and fill in the blanks Car: Mods: Driving style: (ie: granny, boy racer, soccer mum) Driving conditions: (ie: city, highway etc) Fuel brand: (ie: caltex 9X, BP 9X etc) Ltr's for a full tank: (ie: how many litters does it usually take for you to fill right up) KM's per tank: (ie: how many km's do you get per tank) I think that's enough, if anyone else can think of anything else that would affect the economy throw it in.

Frankly that comment just goes to show how ignorant you are about cars. as long as you have the import papers showing the km's on it, you should be pretty right. the average australian does about 15k a year, and it depends if its a daily or just a weekend'er. in Japan when the cars get serviced the km's get entered into a DB, and when the car gets dereged to get exported they compare whats on the car with the DB to make sure they match up and if it doesnt look right they mark it on the papers. Importing your self you shouldnt have too much worry, but buying from an import dealer, you should always ask for the import papers, and if they arent willing to show them to you, dont buy the car.

Its not just the brakes you dont get with a trubo model, LSD, traction control, hicas, better suspension, plus a few other minor things. better off to sell the NA and buy a turbo if you want a turbo.

LawL, god no, you dont need to lift the engine out, that would take you all day just to disconnect everything. take out the airbox and all connecting pipes, then you should be able to see the current exhaust manifold covered in a heat shield, take the heat shield off, undo the cat first. (good idea to use some ramps or at least a jack and supports). I think there is some stuff you can put on the bolts that will help lossen them. it also helps to tighten the bolts slightly before you try to untigthen them. once its all off, clean up the block with a wire brush, or better still get a drill attachment wire brush. replace and rusted nuts. if you have the tools you can replace any rusted studs as well. you can also use some high temp gasket goo on the gaskets to give a good seal.

It would probably take about 2 hours to fit. so allow at least $200. You could also try it yourself, no welding required for fitting the extractors for the 34's, all bolts. Just be careful not to snap any of the bolts on the side of your block.

They are made for the R34, but will fit any other RB25 motor. Not sure if the RB20 is the same design or not. So if you have a R34, they are a good option. Not sure if the cobys were designed around a particular model or not.