rondofj

Bump

Update- giving away free can of tuna with purchase.

Please contact me on 0416424446 if interested, cheers.

300rwkw daily driver running 22psi on 98 petrol- dyno sheets available Mature owner for 6 years, never raced or abused, clean car. Timing belt and water pump changed at 100 000kms Oil and filters regularly changed every 7000kms Gearbox and diff oils done Accident free and no money owing Need this gone as I need a 4 door Precision 5858 0.63a/r ball bearing turbo- sharp lowdown response Turbosmart 38mm wastegate with pipe merged into 3inch dump 3inch custom turbo back exhaust - very mellow & smooth sounding with the wicked RB scream when needed PowerFC with commander Electronic boost controller Walbro 255 lph fuel pump 750cc injectors Z32 airflow meter Large front mount intercooler and piping kit Boost gauge Short shift kit NPC Carbotic heavy duty clutch-only slightly stiffer than stock Bilstein height adjustable suspension- very nice and firm not harsh like coilovers 18 inch deep dish rims with aggressive fitment HICAS lock bar Adjustable camber arms Front strut brace 265/40/18 Federal 595RSRR semi slicks on the back, these grip n go! Tuned by JEM and also Unigroup Nothing left to do, just enjoy! No swaps and no test pilots thanks. Please note that price is $22500 ono, come have a look n throw me an offer

Talking 4-6wks wtf.. But its the 595 RR nit RSR which is available, told its a newer version of the same.. So kinda at the crossroads

Rang up places -they dont have the hankooks in 265, but 275 and lower .. Federals available n kinda tempted, its a bloody long wait for the rs3s

Nizmo Man- Hankook rs3 or Federal 595 rsr (now rr) which are $50 cheaper per corner

Ok.. Just wondering if people use either of these tyres on their dailys. I just wana eliminate 2nd gear wheelspin (and some of 1st), and I'm a happy fella. Dont care which tyre, hopefully they last more that 10-15,000kms too.

Boh

Lol∆∆

Personally the rs3 feels a lot softer than the federal 595rsr's which felt quite hard at the local tyre shop, meaning considerably less grip?

300rwkw R34 Tyres- Achilles ATR Sport 2. Size -235/35/18 Dry - 4/10, wheelspins 1st, 2nd easy, bit of 3rd sometimes on high boost Wet - 2/10, never cane it in wet but spins on wet hill stop & go if not riding clutch. 100% daily driver Now looking for a pair of 265/35/18 (9.5 rim) for rears, either hankook rs3 or 595rsr. Where to get these cheap in Sydney? In ebay the rs3 is $250 a corner and the 595rsr $189. Decisions decisions..

And thats on a 100% street 300rwkw car so nothing like track abuse

Hahahaha... Performance? Stock pads I had felt better. These pads have no place in this world.

Even China shit cant be as bad as these..

Screw Remsa, I got them on my GTT after hearing about them here. Never ever saw pads that spit that much dust in my life. Rims get absolutely coated with brake dust in a week. And the pads wear out quick. Cheap nasty shit, never again.

Did come up ok, test wasdone last year but car had same issues then n nothings been changed since

Sorry app doesnt allow me to load straight but here are the afrs

Timing at this point is usually 25ish or less degrees when stopped after 5-10min drive, taking off it drops to 15-16degrees.

How do I check that section of map, are you talking about the load vs rpm table where the black bar jumps across. Or the fuel/ignition maps

Just tested -TPS idle is 0.46V and pedal to floor is 4.07V. Coolant temp sensor at 18-20degs is around 1800+ ohms and dropping roughly an ohm a second as engines running/warming up. Was around 1490 ohms after say 5mins and showing 41degrees hot on commander

Ben, remember when you guys once suggested to get the afrs checked, well had that done sometime ago at unigroup, was all good. TPS at idle is 0.46V and pedal to floor ( keyjust at ON) from memory is around 4.8V or something- will check

Have to add that during driving or slowing down/ stopping etc, there are NO stalls or feeling like stalling, only from stop to go.

Good Day...R34 RB25det with power fc and Precision 5558 here running 98. Had this problem for a while. Stopped at lights I need more throttle to take off normally or it will vibrate, half stalling or in the worst case jerk / lurch extremely violently, coughing/gasping. Push in clutch and /or apply bit more gas it will recover n drive normally. Cold starts are perfect, cold driving for first ten minutes are always smooth and car purrs like a cat with lotsa low down torque. Once warm it runs and sounds rough, loses some low end torque. Doesn't purr smoothly anymore. Only stalls /feels like stalling when taking off with not much throttle. Boosting is fine, no hesitation or misfires, revs clean all the way, goes MUCH harder on colder days. Oh and car idles/runs a bit rougher with O2 feedback off, so I always have it on. Car has 1 sec or sometimes 2 sec LAG from stop to go most times. Very annoying. Have to keep feathering throttle. Tested n fixed couple vac leaks, changed fuel filter, found tiny leak on wastegate clamp where it sits on turbo housing. (Tiny soap& water bubbles in that area when idling). Coolant temp sensor seems to be working cos the commander displays change in temp from start first couple mins about 25C and then goes up n normally sits at 72C or up to 80C boosting hard for a cew mins on warmer days. Idle air control valve (IAC) has been removed n cleaned twice, m sick of it. Used a gasket paste though so not sure if leaking, spraying WD40 there and on joints/suspect areas doesnt change engine note though. TPS is 0.46V at idle and voltage changes with accelerator stabs so assume its fine. There could be more minor vac leaks though as this test was done sometime ago. But prob was there then even after fixing leaks. Havent fixed the tiny wastegate leak though, tightening v band n it still leaks slightly, holds boost well though. Kinda lost here on what it could be.. Fuel pump is a walbro, directly wired. Air filters clean and Z32 is plugged in tight and joints re-soldered, sensor element cleaned.