rondofj

Thanks guys- I borrowed Wolverine's CAS, there was no change so CAS is ruled out now, many thanks once again Wolverine.

Tried new CAS now thanks to Wolverine in here, no change to problems - CAS ruled out now (and yes timing was set to 15 degrees with timing gun). Found something else- got the annoying idle hunting and 'sticky stutter/jerk at 1500-2000rpms in long traffic drive- switched off O2 feedback in PowerFC and it went away. Was much smoother too. But then after my drive while idling it was a bit rough (no hunting) and switching O2 feedback on smoothened it so confusing. Yavuz did mention O2 sensor is on the way out soon but not to worry yet. Typ voltage 0.5-1V. Disconnecting MAP sensor makes drive a bit rough and values for PRS and BOST on powerfc sensor check become 0.00V. Connecting it gets PRS to 2.7ishV at idle and BOST is always 0.02V-doesnt change even while driving but PRS does change 2.7-2.8ish V. Is my MAP sensor shagged? All this doesnt solve the bogging down and losing 70%power for 5secs during downshifts esp under load. Next move is drive in low rpms with Z32 disconnected and boost leak test with compressor.

Yeah as mentioned earlier in OP, done all that. But why does my afm throw check engine light at 4.8V+??? It should be 5V+ according to Paulr33 in another post

Tried different afm but not enough space to test- didnt get idle bounce/ slight hesitation @1800rpm but got bit of the bogging down at downshifts. Im wantin to change thermostat/adjust water temp corr cos it takes long to reach 78C and runs rough beforehand (enrichment)

Update- found out whats causing the check engine light in high boost/redline, mostly on 2nd- the airflow voltage going past 4.8V. Turn the airflow warning off in power fc ETC FYUNCTION SELECT and no check engine light. Tonite I reached 4.88V and 4.915V on 2 power pulls in 2nd and 3rd- no check light. Most times the light comes on the peak voltage is around early 4.8ish V. But that doesnt solve my other problems, not much idle bounce been happening but the other probs are there. And temp is slow to reach max 78C, change thermostat to R34 82C one? Or adjust water temp correction at 60C

Ahhhem! Thanks for clearing that up

how bout using dialectric silicon sealant on the plastic joins to prevent spark escaping - rather than spend money on new coils.. check this out

Rarely pings on third, or second. I've turned off the airflow warning in power fc function settings under etc, will test tonite to see if it still throws check engine light.

Your right, NEO one starts opening at 82C right, I cant adjust the 'temp' in the water temp correction, just the correction values - it has 1.00 and 1.00 at 80C and 1.04 and 1.07 at 50C, maybe bring this down to 1.00 and 1.00?? (low and high load correction that is)

OEM was also recommended to me by Unigroup themselves! So screw YJs - mine went bang after a year..

To the guy above, my timing on idle after warmup is a rock solid 15degs and startup is first time each time so Im giving the CAS some points here. One last thing that COULD be the problem is my large breather hose from cam cover to intake could have a leak because theres a funny join at the intake pipe- cant really access/observe it fully without removing stuff so something to do.

So far the sensors ruled out and how/why: Coolant Temp Sensor to ECU - displays increasing temps with time to max 78C operating temp in power fc , also shows varying voltage over time in power fc sensor check TPS - with ignition ON engine off it shows 0.4V @zero throttle and 4.02V pedal to floor and varying voltage in between depending on throttle stabs/ pedal position O2 Sensor- car runs and idles a bit rough with it unplugged and O2 Feedback disabled in Power fc,. Shows variable voltage depending on how you stab throttle on idle- think idle is 0.5V. With O2 Feedback enabled car is smoother and nicer and not much or almost no fuel smell. Z32 AFM - 0.5V with ign ON and 1.1ish V @ idle, and increasing voltage with increasing airflow/ boost/ power runs. Always goes to 4.8-4.9V during redline in 2nd and throws up engine check light so bit funny I think. Havent ruled this out completely. Sensors left to test - CAS, MAP sensor on firewall - how to test this, just unplug?

This is what I got http://bit.ly/1nM1xGY Was told its original, looks original quality wise and hasnt missed a beat 22psi for 7 months- lets see how it holds. And got it under $300 delivered. Screw YJs---never ever again theyre rubbish.

Gates kit, did it myself, no squeals, perfect 15 degrees timing at idle

Cheaper than crappy Yellowjackets too!

EGay man, got my genuine Nissan R34 coilpacks from there, Unigroup recommended.

No one lolz

Cars been to Yavuz n Mark 3 times, they've gone over it and they stress each time that theres not anything else they could do to improve the tune, suggested me to try relocating afm/ modify intake pipe (already blocked bov return to rule the pipe out) , I suspect a sensor myself and this is what Im trying to do- rule them out one by one- afm is still a suspect throwing high voltage in 2nd @wot high rpm, wasnt doin this before. What it was doin before was throwing high knock values and high afm volts aswl in 3rd (nothing on 2nd) @wot high rpm, now the knocks strangely disappeared- all on same tune. This change happened after I overboosted several times n snapped wastegate hose. Loud gunfire sounds too. So coolant temp sensor to ecu is ruled out as its giving correct temp readings with time. O2 sensor ruled out as problem is still there with it disconnected. Next to test is TPS, MAP sensor on firewall and borrow CAS. And I wana change thermostat cos it takes too long 10-15 mins incl 5-7mins idling to reach 78C. Have I missed anything else? The idle bounce is pretty inconsistent- doesnt happen most times n only happens when fully warm. So electricals/sensor again. Gotta check afm ground too, maybe run a wire spliced to its ground and onto chasis, problem is its got two ground wires..

Dont know how it was scaled or what exactly scaling an afm is - but yeah it is selected as the VG30 afm in the drop down list, if 4.9V is deep into R&R category maybe thats why its drinking fuel like a fish! But wouldn't the tune allow the car to rev to redline in high boost without maxing out the afm voltage? Wouldnt drink so much then..

Lol 5.1V, mine is ALWAYS a touch over 4.9V close to redline and it was just selected on the Powerfc options VG30 airflow meter

yeh it goes 4.9V+ all the time, isnt that normal at high boost/rpm?

Hey SAUers, Was forced to create this thread as I didn't find anyone on my other related thread, basically my car (R34GTT) is running funny and I want to rule the CAS out of the equation by testing another one, preferrably on a weekend - Sydney Area, I live Parramatta ways. I would be most grateful if theres anyone in Sydney who wouldn't mind exchanging a NEO CAS for a day or two - mine works well in my car, but the car's got minor issues which couldn't even be CAS related., I don't know.. I will drive to you. I have heard the R34GT-R and R33 GTST S2 CAS is the same as RB25DET NEO, its got a plastic cover not metal. thanks Ron

I just drove with O2 feedback disabled in power fc and the O2 sensor plug disconnected ( this didnt throw up engine check light?). Strange thing the power fc sensor check still shows 0.2V for the O2S field with the sensor disconnected. Drove the same, bogged down for 5secs on uphill downshift . My engine light mostly but not always flashes during approx 7000rpm+ in second. Peak values for knock remain low but airflow always shoots up to 4.9V+, is this normal for that gear n rpm? I think thats what flashes the light because even inj duty doesnt go past 75%

One other thing I get these 2 values 23 degrees under Ign Cor change from 24 to 23 to 15 degrees everytime u go in to check- is this normal? See pic

Sweet man, that confirms that the coolant temp to ecu is working well, as its talking to the ecu which is displaying the different temps with time, tonites drive start up was 23C and crept up to 73C after which I didnt check. Leaves the O2 sensor to test, TPS maybe and of course borrow NEO CAS :S