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rondofj

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Posts posted by rondofj

  1. A couple powerfc screenshots as Johnnylite requested (dunno why its not upright). What is Ign Corr Map and Fin- these two values change between 15C, 20C, 23C and 32C I noted? After tge drive it was 15C, in the beginning it was 32.

    Also is the WTRT voltage on the sensor check the volts from the coolant temp sensor to ecu or the other coolant temp sensor to gauge?

    post-49401-14065496431945_thumb.jpg

    post-49401-1406549663203_thumb.jpg

  2. This car is funny, started it and warmed it a good 5 plus or so mins while playing thru the powerfc commander, by then the idle had dropped to a nice steady ( no bouncing) 850-900rpms and engine note was purry and soft. And the drive felt like a 300rwkw+ car, very sharp, responsive, good low rpm torque, and hits quite hard on boost in 3rd, fries tyres easy, revs out 3rd pretty quick. Smiles all round and the way it should drive. This happens, say 20-30% of the time the car is perfect and you couldnt want more. Which rules out a boost leak cos else it wouldnt run perfect at all with a leak and I' ve checked for leaks and changed hoses/clamps how many times. Didnt check the losing 60% power at downshifts but it would have been there. I have noted that when the cars running perfect, its always after a nice good warm-up while stationary.

    And the rest of the time it runs as if theres a boost leak- different groany note, no torque, feels like 240kw, hard to rev out 3rd quickly, thirsty and yeah you know its crap.

    So definitely a dodgy sensor somewhere.

  3. Yeh was tryin to find a leak, I know about the pvc pipe cap/tyre valve boost leak tester but you gotta drive to the servo, take off the afm there,stick in the pvc cap and then use their air compressor (read that bike pump cannot supply enough air), maybe I will construct that pvc pipe boost leak tester..:S

    TPS - where on power fc do I read TPS voltage - is this the THR (throttle?) on the sensor check?? Voltage readings enough to confirm its good?

    Coolant Sensor to ECU (not gauge) - is this the one to test/replace? Got brown plug in the NEO right. Also is this the THRM or WTRT on the power fc sensor check and voltage readings enough to confirm it works?

    thanks - still learning and its fun :S

  4. 'twere I you, I would try swaptronics with the CAS, and at the very least get a scope onto the CAS signal. You'll no doubt need Yavuz's help for these things.

    Your BOV re-entry angle into the turbo intake has been an item of suspicion in these threads of yours hasn't it? Done anything about it?

    I put a coke can plate to block off BOV - this cancels out the BOV re-entry angle to turbo out of the equation, but problems still there yes. Car drives better though like this, and no stalling etc.

    And yes CAS is my number one suspect, do I create another thread saying 'Help- Need NEO CAS for a day, Sydney Area' haha.. Scotty Nm35 was suggesting this sometime ago and I kept in mind. Even with the Nistune, the car was running inconsistently great / crap and quite tempermental at times, economy was the same crap 18-20L/100kms, and one thing is generally when the car is quite cold it runs pretty crisp (also no bouncing idle), once warm then you do notice a 'slightly sick car sometimes.. Temp sensor? Dunno, what do you guys think of my sensor voltages displayed on the powerfc commander above posts??

  5. Ok so my car is doing my head in- have had to reluctantly create threads for all the issues which seem to be related and for which I aint got a solution yet. R34GTT with PT5558, powerfc, z32, injectors, 22psi on 98 pootrol etc.

    Original problem for which I had to block off my stock bov (coke can) but which only solved half the problem:

    60-70% power loss for 3-5 secs on downshifts esp under load/uphill etc, also happens (sometimes) on upshifts at full throttle but not as pronounced. During this time the map tracer on powerfc jumps 6-7 cells down and dumps a lot of fuel n retards timing. Basically utilises a very wrong map point for these 3-5 seconds. Tried out a member's z32 (thanks GtScotT), and couldnt really test it that much due to traffic, BUT yep it still does this, I feel to a lesser extent. Sometimes it didnt happen where I thought it would, but happened a few times to convince me my z32 is not entirely the culprit. Problem happens ALL the time with my z32 afm.

    Recent problem-bouncing idle from 1300-700rpms (AAC valve was removed n cleaned a couple years ago and coilpacks are 8 months old Nissan items and doesnt misfire at all on high boost n load). During idle bounce the powerfc shows inj duty fluctuate betw 1.3-0.7%. The afm volts also fluctuate betwn 1.4-1.1volts at this time. Afm volts at idle is normally 1.1v and key ON is 0.5v. So ok. This problem occurs SOMETIMES only.

    2nd Recent problem- during normal driving always at around 1700-2000rpms theres always a 'stickiness', hesitation, shudder and power loss ONLY at that point. Went through all the hoses with soapy water yesterday and couldnt find leaks/ ( idle was fine somehow and didnt change with the water spray). Problem happen ALL the time only at that rpm point.

    All this leads me to believe some sensor somewhere is f***king up. Or electronics/ecu thing. I believe the problems are related even though the last two didnt happen before and is inconsistent.

    I've attached my powerfc sensor check n volts at idle so you can see if its ok. Before I finish- I must add that a month ago I snapped my wastegate hose and overboosted to 30psi a few times with really LOUD machine gun misfire sounds from bonnet n exhaust before I realized what had happened. Lucky no damage, not sure if this screwed something up slowly.

    post-49401-14064512657817_thumb.jpg

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