rondofj

Gearbox oil changed? And filled to correct levels.

Hey guys after weeks of inconsistent power from my R34( as in sometimes you have to really give it some throttle to feel what would otherwise require much less throttle) a couple of times revving out 4th quickly but without acceleration and a few times where the higher gears take long to rev out (boost leak? running rich-sounds groany and much less power) I decided to do a clutch test. From standstill and in 4th gear and also in 5th gear I am able to slowly move my car forward without any throttle input. Just by releasing the clutch, shudders a bit but then slowly moves forward. Hand-brake off btw. Is this good enough to indicate my clutch is fried? 286rwkw, and - I think its a stock one as I didnt ask what the previous owner put in. Yes I do know the stocker is not meant to go past 200-250rwkw lol. I also found that I didnt have as much torque goin uphill with a passenger- had to push more on the gas pedal. It is pretty inconsistent though, sometimes feels like a 290rwkw car, sometimes much much less, I do know that I have a boost leak somewhere as well and its running rich sometimes from the sound, bit louder and less smooth and no power. The smoke machine found a small leak we fixed, but still didnt read perfect. Hence its goin on the dyno again, but before that I want to know if my clutch is gone and I need an organic HD clutch - the NPC one for GTT is $786- ouch! Thanks Ron

Really? I thought its more like 264rwkw or therebouts.

What does a stock 317kw? VE Clubsport or Maloo put out at the wheels?

Pic of Engine cover with bracket.

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R34 NEO OP6 TURBO ONLY $350...woot woot

PMed

Ha ha your right, I have yet to learn n fine tune some driver skills

Hello Anthony your welcome anyday after 730pm or anytime on weekends, cheers Ron.

Hey Guys, I have upgraded my R34GTT to a 290rwkw ride and these are the stock parts replaced and for sale now. They are all in perfect working and presentable condition from the day removed (late December).There is also an aftermarket JJR dump/front pipe as well. All parts are direct fit to R33 as well except the injectors. Stock R34GTT Turbo with OP6 rear housing, actuator, bracket and inlet pipe. Almost zero shaft play and wheels in perfect condtion. Good for Hiflows and a good upgrade for R32 $350 JJR 3 inch dump/front pipe - direct bolt to stock turbo and cat, awesome midrange gain $130 Stock Air Flow Meter -pink label $80 Stock Rubber Intake $30 Stock R34GTT injectors $110 Stock Dump Pipe with heat shield and O2 sensor $35 Stock cooler pipe from turbo elbow $20 Stock R34GTT fuel pump $50 Stock R34GTT NEO Engine cover with brackets $50 Stock Turbo Heat Shield with bracket $25 Contact: Ron 0416424446 or PM me thanks. Pick-up from Parramatta NSW or postage extra depending on weight/location.

I dont normally drop the clutch and mash the pedal, when I did a few times all I get is wheelspin as you said. I generally come on the gas progressively and have dropped my 235 18 tyres to 34psi now. Managed to get rid of some of the wheelspin with throttle control, but the thing is if u want to go fast on a track or accelerate hard, then you gotta mash the pedal, no?? Else you will hardly be faster than a v6 commy. Well initially, anyway..

Ahh thanks guys, one thing is confirmed- your all saying I need wider tyres so that would be one fix, I did find that by reducing tyre pressures from my initial 40 to 36psi I was able to get rid of a lot of the wheelspin.. Maybe try 34 and 32 as a final pressure, its 100% street driven so I fear 32 is the lowest I could go. Nismoid is right in saying the 0.63 rear ramps up hard, the delivery is not linear as on my dyno graph (RB25 thread), Hank also has a very good point that I didn't think of, it 'shouldn't' skate and wheelspin while running because it doesn't squat much (like launching) so the suspension isn't the major problem but could be softened as you guys suggest - it doesnt have adjustable damper rates unfortunately, just height adjustable.

Hey Guys, just need a little advice here, did some research but couldn't find exactly what I wanted so please dont shoot me down haha.. Car- R34GTT with 290rwkw Tyres- 235/40/18 Bridgestone Potenza RE040s (36psi) on quality lightweight Jap rims Suspension - Cusco adjustable coilovers (Blue, would be an older model, not sure which) Problem - I encounter wheelspin (lasting 2,3,4seconds) when coming onto boost hard from 4000rpms onwards, shifting to 2nd or 3rd and start skating briefly before rocketing forward. I have only recently had a power upgrade from 206rwkw so don't know if it is normal to do this? Even at the lower power level it did use to wheelspin a bit on 1st and 2nd but not third. My suspension is fairly hard and has very little flex/ bounce when physically pushing down against the boot/trunk esp the rears and I suspect I need softer suspension. Does anyone has any advice/suggestions? thanks Ron

Do people actually use these turbos on dailys - ie power/boost after 5500rpms aaarrgh........the US does have long straight roads though..

Thanks for the heads-up buddy, will do, and yes have been testing on hot days so thats the reason for the lower boost I see....

Wow why u making so much power man- 450ish rwkw is it?? How much boost and no E85?

I still reckon its the damn clutch, first gear boosts well, goes and revs out real quick but third doesnt- theres not as much shove that used to be there on third, it revs but doesnt accelerate as hard and lost lot of torque

Its already there in the RB25 dyno results thread if u guys didnt see it. I think my stock clutch is packing up, car doesnt feel powerful anymore, more like 220-230rwkw, a lot of the punch in the back seat feeling is gone even though it revs up all the way, first gear goes to redline really quick, wheelspins n all, 2nd goes quickish, third doesnt and used to wheelspin and go sideways in third now nomore.., not that I want to, but indicating the clutch is shagged after 5 days of hard driving? Also the boost doesnt go to 18psi all the time, more like stays at 14-16, mostly 16psi wtf ... Bloody cars

I would just go a Hypergear -GCG are rip-offs and I dont know why people buy from them- Hypergear's products and service are excellent. But if you want the cheapest option I have a stock R34 turbo for sale in perfect condition and almost no shaft play at all, direct bolt-on to your R33. PM me if interested.

Looks like what they did with mine- connect the two up with a hose or something

If you looking for a 3076R equivalent then go the 0.63/ 5558 which is what I did from research and Unigroup's advice, if you looking for bigger, then consider the 6XXX series...

Hey Kurtis, with that much power you could put down a high 10s quarter mile? Not sure why you got a 13.098, guess tyres/suspension/launch was the problem. I have yet to learn how to launch..

I'm having this problem after my turbo/injectors upgrade and tune, apart from this niggling startup sputtering and choking, car runs beautifully smooth and is a real rocket. The idle is crap though, bit rough and sounds like a grumbling racecar idle. I'm thinkin its the injector settings on startup/idle that needs to be tweaked.. The injectors are 630cc Siemens Deka top feeds on RB25 NEO..the tuner did say they are nortorious for a rough idle..