rondofj

This sounds good, please put me in in in..! Thanks Ron

Wont the use of spring spacers simply be the same as moving my springs UP on the cut groves- will give more height n shock travel like spacers will. We pinpointed the creaking to the front left strut (not sure if its from the strut tower top or bottom joint) when turning during the LAST 20-30% of full lock and when the car is leaning sideways on that shock during turning. During the last turns close to lock is when the creaks happen even when parked but moreso at low driveway speed. The rear strut clanking n rattling tops during small bumps is a separate story

And loose possibly because I moved it down on Sydneykids standard cut grooves to give the height I want.

Sorry guys been pretty busy with stuff, the 'loose spring' is what it probably is because it is not that sprung when captive in the car, I am pretty sure I could turn it on its mounts with a little bit of effort while its still on the car. Will report back later

The noise only started with my Bilsteins- it wasnt there at all with my Cusco coilovers and its definitely coming from the top of the struts both front n rear ( front creaks during turning), so what else could it be- as u said it dorsnt look like these struts have bearings..my suspect is those thick black rubber/plastic washers but please enlighten me

Hi SAU, I need your help. This is a long going issue with my R34GTT that I havent bothered fixing yet, I fitted Bilstein coilovers from another R34 and got new bumpstops n grooves cut in by Sydneykid sometime ago, the pics are old btw. Issue is all the clanking (esp from the rear strut tops) when hitting mild bumps and imperfections at even 30-40km/h. The fronts also do this, on top of that they creak real loud like a mofo when turning/braking esp on drives, humps etc. At normal speeds you cannot really hear the creaks when turning. I need to identify which part from my first pic I need to replace, from what I know its the strut mounts or tops but my ones not a single item, rather a series of washers n rubbers>>first pic. So what do I replace and from where, any alternatives or has to be Bilstein? Thanks

I recently lost a lot of power on my car and did all i could to get it back. Timing was bit retarded and advancing it got a lot of it back. BUT then I did my service which was overdue - plugs, oil flush/ new oil, oil filter, new air filter - BAM a completely different car! Service - a simple overlooked thing. Do it if you havent/

bump on the above parts ;-

Can you post a picture of your driveway lol

Where do I get the 2 seals that seal the front two Sumitomo caliper halves together? Mine is leaking after cracking the 4 bolts holding the halves together by mistake. Rebuild kits dont have this.

Oh ok lol..such a learning process. Ive fixed it on my own, it does bite a bit earlier than before maybe 1/4-1/3 up from the floor. The top 1/3 is free play so not quite right, have bled the master, funny box n slave to death. Then put in new Remsa pads on my front stock calipers, 4 pistons are a bit of a job! My front right caliper developed a tiny leak from the edges where the 2 halves of the caliper screw onto each other after I mistakenly removed the 4 bolts, removed 2 and partially the 3rd n 4th bolt when the leak surfaced -I put it on as tight as but still the leaks there. Sure its not from the piston but the gaskets or watever seals the caliper housings together. What to do- rebuild kit or give to a brakes specialist?

Finally I THINK I know whats wrong- holding the clutch pressed with a steel rod aint do too much because I realized my foot can push it further down-(its a performance npc carbotic so pressure plate is harder) hence Im only partially pressurising the system -clutch not fully pressed when bleeding correct? Need to wait for my flatmate to get in n give me a hand (or feet). Am I right here?

Phew just did that -its hard with one man job because even when you hold pedal down with rod against seat, after you crack bleeders n close it, the pedal loosens further and the rod falls off. Everytime. Now I do have some decent pressure in system but its only from 'second half' of pressing pedal that I feel it. The first half of the pedal is limp ... Adjust bolt on pedal?? Damn I didnt know what a nitemare this job could be. Goin to research online on adjusting..

Thanks mate, hoping I didnt, was workin fine before doing a bleed- I have also done vac sucking off the slave a few times with master cyl lid closed to see if it made a difference which it didnt. And done the slave open, push clutch, close , pull clutch, repeat with lid closed and open too. Can I destroy seals this way? Will try a few more pumps tomorro n try to bleed master aswl. Clutch bleed Tute says to bleed LINES from master, slave and fluid dampner box, does this mean remove each of the hose connections, push clutch, fit hose, pull clutch? Hard one

Hey SAU really need ur help. Bled my 34GTT clutch today with a vac pump off slave, drained master completely by mistake (happened 2-3 times) and wasted a lot of brake fluid cycling thru system. Am putting the same clean brake fluid that Im sucking out incl air bubbles from pump back into system thinking the air escapes as I open the container and then pour it in. Wrong? Lots bubbles keep comin out when sucking from slave. Then I gave up n stopped n did the open nipple on slave, push pedal, close nipple, pull pedal, repeat many many times maybe 10-12 times n still pedal on floor- hasnt got full pressure, say only 15-20% of what it used to be. Havent bled the master/or 'funny little box' between master n slave which I dont even know where it is.. No leaks to master or slave confirmed. Please help! Car is on jackstands n I mite have to get mr lubemobile tomorrow. Also lid on master is OPEN as Im doing all this n checking fluid level, is this ok? Can there be air INSIDE the bled fluid that Im putting back in or does it all escape when opening bottle to pour? How do I get my pedal back, have read the tute too Basically need to get pressure in my system.

Bump.. BOTH are BRAND NEW UN-USED items yep. The socket set is perfect and compact / Swedish quality with Metric sockets and bits, no Imperial waste. Also got stock R34GTT parts: Stock Rubber intake - $15 Fuel Pump - $35 6 X Stock R34 Injectors 370cc - $180 Pink Label R34 AFM - $80 Stock manifold heat shield -$20 RON 0416424446 Pickup - Pitt St Parramatta NSW (after 730pm Mon-Fri, anytime on weekends)

ITEM #1 BRAND NEW & UNUSED BAHCO SOCKET SET 34 Piece 1/4" & 3/8” Square Drive - S330 - unwanted gift Socket set 1/4" and 3/8" drive, Dynamic-Drive Profile. Finish: Matt Chrome-plated. Material: Chrome Vanadium. Case: High Density Polythene (HDPE) Contents: 34 pieces 12 pcs 3/8" 6-pt Sockets Dynamic-Drive 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 mm 2 pcs 3/8" Extension bars 75 mm / 3" & 150 mm / 6" 1 pce 3/8" Universal joint 1 pce 3/8" x 1/4" Bit holder 2 pcs 3/8" Spark plug Sockets 6-pt 16 mm (5/8"), 21 mm (13/16") 1 pce 1/4" Spinner with two component handle 1 pce 1/4" x 1/4" Bit holder 3 pcs 1/4" Bits Flat 4 5.5 7 mm 4 pcs 1/4" Bits Phillips PH 1 2 3 4 6 pcs 1/4" Bits Hex 3 4 5 6 7 8 mm 1 pce 3/8" Ratchet with two component handle, 60 teeth PRICE $65.00 ITEM #2 3A RACING POD FILTER -BRAND NEW - unwanted gift PRICE $25.00 Contact - Ron 0416424446 Pickup - Pitt St Parramatta NSW after 730pm Mon-Fri, anytime on weekends

Lol....sounds like you just described hy_rpm.... I agree fully with what you say.,plenty trolls around ;-

What do you know about me n my car...your just probably another adolescent or 20s something keyboard clown on the internet trying to hammer his point across haha. I dont think Mark would tell you something like that, hes a top bloke who would know that you dont just gain 40kw from changing a rubbish air filter.. . This thread surely delivers..

How do you know my air filters blocked, assume much? Your the sort of guy who believes changing the air filter resulted in a 40kw gain from a 230kw datto to 270kw wow haha.. And niether did you understand my post. Tuner said 17L/100kms is average for metro driving, I'm doing 21 or even 20, does that seem close to 17? Mixed cruise driving he said 14, I did 16.7-17 which is still a bit from 14. Ok I will be nice to you and get a new filter, might surely get 40kw since you swear your mate did ;-

Might also do a compression test soon if I dont get lazy, got a new kit.

Somebody put that zebra back in the zoo lol. O2 was changed a couple months ago, and only managed 16.6L/100kms through a couple of longer motorway drives. Mark said my economy is on the high end and that normally a modified car would average 17L/100kms on metro drives and 14-15 on longer cruises. He told me stock 1jzs average about 16L/100kms with stock injectors, thats a bit much wtf

Afr seems alright on cruise and also WOT maybe even a touch lean, no smoke out the exhaust, maybe injectors are leaking.. Tuner verified afm is ok with the voltages its reading. Said to change Blitz pod filter as they known to be shit. Mighta get an Apexi soon

Thread revive- just had an afr log done on the dyno as suggested here- seems to be ok, yet still gets me 20-21L/100kms on short metro daily drives (only) 4kms each way with 1,2 or 3 2nd and 3rd gear hard pulls on the way. On a mix of motorway and metro driving, I got 16.6L/100kms last week. Dont know why it made such crappy power this time either, the only thing changed is a new O2 sensor and Gizzmo IBC-R ebc on same boost and gain set to 16.

Yes exhaust restriction was fixed long ago and tune touched up too. Mark removed my filter to see if it would make extra power but it didnt, but if it really is known to be rubbish then its goin to the bin soon