rondofj

And I could safely say nobody KNOWS if thats my problem, they think it is. Having tried so many things and even making the bov atmo, I am pretty sure it isn't entirely my problem. Look at it this way, if I shift under load (and give it 3-4secs before I bring the clutch out the problem wont happen at all. Why? If I drive with NO boost under 2500 and shift going up a hill at 40-50, the problem always occurs. Why? How can there be bov reversion in boost-less conditions?

Is that what the whole topic was about? Really.. Have you even read all the other problems n nigglings that have been fixed now? Now whos funny? Lol

Haha. Tuner will be seeing it soon. And what do u mean by actual fault Scotty? Fault of the temp power loss during shifts? Yep the bov entry could be the fault of that..but who cares..not worth fixing somethin that accounts for barely 2% of my driving. On a different note, see pics of my tacho/speedo combo in 5th, diff looks stock as far as I know and stock box of course. Something we spoke about once- pics to put it to rest.

Any other opinions on getting an afr log at the dyno vs getting own wideband with gauge? And that intake pipe mods not happening, I've said that a few times already. For now that is

Did he say hes planning to pour the oil through the dipstick tube? Since hes not sure where the oil filler is.

Timings done n dusted. Fuel economy with new O2 sensor = 21l/100kms, same driving pattern as usual nothing new. Wideband with gauge on agenda, will that do on its own? Not wanting to get a datalogit etc, dont even have a laptop lolz but can borrow one. Option 2 is take to Unigroup n get an AFR log on dyno. Which is the better option?

The first time some weeks ago I didnt check the commander when setting cas to display 20 on harmonic balancer, I just assumed it would be 15 as thats what the idle always is on a hot engine, silly me didn't realize that on a slightly colder engine the commander would most likely have been displaying 20. And because 15 is the stock base timing that cemented the thought it WOULD be 15 displayed

OK just did what xklaba does - inductive pickup straight off no1 coil front face - 20-21 degrees on PFC commander AND harmonic balancer, so all good- this is the easiest n best method! Timings higher cos cars colder at 61 degrees water temp

Woot, on that flat smoky whitish face of the coil...

What XKLABA said. The gun connected straight onto no1 coil wire/lead that comes from loom. Coil still sitting directly on plug, no in-between lead

Wow just did this- timing gun straight off no1 coil wire (no in-between leads) and it shows 15 on both harmonic balancer AND PFC commander! Disconnect TPS and it shows 21 on PFC AND harmonic balancer. No f#%^king around with the CAS or anything. I had set it dead correct back then. Running straight off coil wire is easier but not stable it shows timing then goes blank, shows timing then blank every 3-4 secs. With in-between lead its rock steady timing displayed. Thats it no more stuffing around with timing, it was proper after all.

^^me needs to try this to see what variation I get

I drew up that pic quickly to demonstrate how I always set my timing lol

Heres where it gets interesting,... a diagram !

yeh exactly, dont see how else it could be done - and the gun goes off that in-between lead

lead to no1 plug that works correctly of course

I would have agreed with that (Ben) as well, thats how I always set my timing before - pfc commander always shows 15 degrees hot idle - I set it at 20 (on harmonic balancer) now cos thats what it used to drive like before and thats where the bolts on cas / my marker was. Before taking it off. Could be my timing gun is off or actual cam timing belt has skipped >> screwdriver test thru sparkplug hole with engine at TDC. Faaark do I have to take off fan and rad again (to turn engine manually). So hard to get to fan bolts.

Some conflicting bits of info here.. Johnny says to change cells to 20 and set CAS to 20, Ben says not to match cell, but match displayed monitor output in commander (15 in my case after warmup hot idle ). My timing (at harmonic balancer) does jump approx 5 degrees when increasing idle from 800 to 1500 ish....thats how it is. And how big are the idle maps really - shouldnt be more than 5X2 or therebouts I would think? Covering values from cold idle to hot idle. My normal idle cell on main timing map N02 L02 IS set to 19 btw.

Yes indeed checked the crank pulley - idle speed goes pretty high (didnt check how much) with TPS disconnected and timing goes up +5 degrees on harmonic balancer. TPS connected goes down to 20 degrees on harmonic balancer and idle becomes softer - havent checked the rpms, but its always fluctuating 800-850rpms on commander after warmup.

these ones my bad

These 6 cells become 20 sir?

thanks man, will do that . That is the main timing map though not idle map, that ok? A properly warmed engine idle sits rock steady on N02, L02 >> 19 degrees on image a couple posts down

Nope not quite. TPS connected >> timing on harmonic balancer = 20degrees. timing on PFC = 15 degrees TPS disconnected >> timing on harmonic balancer = 25degrees. timing on PFC = 15 degrees Which means CAS needs to be set to 15 degrees on harmonic balancer, but it don't go right like it used to at 15, and the CAS position doesnt look right at 15 to what I know it was before.

My timing doesn't fluctuate much with TPS connected but it sure goes up 5 degrees with it disconnected, meaning 25 degrees in my case! Idle goes a lot louder and higher. 20 degrees is with TPS connected and yes Yavuz also said it doesn't matter if its connected or not when setting base timing, but in my case it sure does matter ;S. And yes as I said a few times earlier my 'monitor' mode in the commander shows idle always at 15 degrees when it settles / warm.