rondofj

FRONT PIPE SOLD

Its all business mate, money comes first for most people..Its a sad world really.

3" FRONT PIPE SOLD. NEO COVER & BRACKETS $60 STOCK DUMP WITH HEATSHIELD & BRAND NEW GASKET AND BOLTS $35 R34 NEO FUEL PUMP $40 O2 SENSOR $30 ALL PARTS IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION - NO DINGS ETC

Hehe

Hi Michael, its the stock R34 dump as listed above. cheers Ron

3" front pipe sold.

hey mate is the Z32 still there?

PM replied

Hey Guys, Got some stuff for sale as follows: R34 NEO Cover + bracket = $60. In fantastic condition. R34 turbo stock fuel pump = $40 R34 Stock dump + heatshield + O2 sensor (no plug) = $55 (brand new turbo to dump gasket and bolts included). In fantastic condition. Dump only with heatshield and gaskets = $35. 3" HKS Front pipe, has its own flanges and bracket, direct bolt to dump and cat = $85 (brand new cat to dump gasket and bolts included). Kerb damage to underside of front pipe scratching but nothing major. Dump + heatshield + O2 sensor + Front as pictured = $125 These parts will fit all skylines R32, R33 and R34. Pickup from 74-76 Pitt Street, Parramatta NSW 2150, OR if posting then: All freight costs to be as per www.auspost.com.au cheers, RON - 0416424446

Pics attached: R34 NEO Cover + bracket = $60. In fantastic condition. R34 Stock dump + heatshield + O2 sensor (no plug) = $55 (brand new turbo to dump gasket and bolts included). In fantastic condition. Dump only with heatshield and gaskets = $35. 3" HKS Front pipe, bolts to dump and cat = $85 (brand new cat to dump gasket and bolts included). Kerb damage to underside of front pipe scratching but nothing major. Dump + heatshield + O2 sensor + 3" Front pipe as pictured = $125 R34 turbo stock fuel pump = $40. In fantastic condition. Pickup from 74-76 Pitt Street, Parramatta NSW 2150, OR if posting then: All freight costs to be as per www.auspost.com.au cheers, RON - 0416424446

Definitely, looks like its packing a very healthy twin turbo setup under there..

I always thought a granny spec corolla does 0-100 in around 9-10 secs, correct me if wrong? And quarter in around 17-18

I wonder what it is with a lot of these hg turbos not makin its desired power, ie with this turbo of 280rwkw, is it because of the IG and small actuator, as a lot of the car setups seem ok?? 340rwhp is more like 255rwkw, which is pretty short imho. Same power as some hiflows.. Stao's car seems to make great results tho, I'm saying cos I'm wanting to get one of these- HG or a Kando myself, just that some results seem disappointing. Will i NEED a G3 to make at least 280? Thats what it seems like, to go one power level up to be sure of making the power level below it. I do not want the lag of the G3 to make 270-280 plus. And then reading the Garret threads, some of these guys are bored of the 'slow' 270rwkw and going for at least 300-320 on a road car...wtf??? I thought 270-280 is the sweet spot.. Choosing a turbo to suit your taste is best done by sitting in cars with them on, they are the hardest choice determined best by TRYING diff turbos on..not reading forums like me. Just my 2c. But i must say i like the lightswitch like power delivery of a tractor spec SR20DET S15 I drove once. True the initial lags not good but the sudden shove was great, it was a jap spec silvia, stock turbo, high boost. The RBs feel much more torquey down low and much smoother n more gradual power shove, which i find boring....but minus the nasty tractor noise...

Cat & Coil packs sold.. FUEL PUMP from R34 Turbo $30. Perfect working condition, good upgrade for NAs and older Skylines. Also got stock dump with O2 sensor - $45 Plus R34 NEO Turbo Engine cover $60

hey dave how much did the GT-R spoiler set u back? looks good on the GTT

When you re-tune the ecu after adding injectors, do you just go and select new injector size in cc and set latency only or you need to retune all the cells in each rpm band in the map?? Do you need to retune all the AFRs and timing too?? On a slightly different note, after substituting a Z32 to the original RB25 AFM, do I just select 'Z32' from the AFM drop down list and it is automatically calibrated?? I am running Nistune btw and if a 'retune' is as simple as I described above, then I could do this myself... (rubs hands in excitement.. )

Coil Packs sold, Cat pending payment, FUEL PUMP $30! !

free bump - looks tough as..

If its starting to want to stall i will bet it is a vacuum leak somewhere, check from intake to throttle body n intake manifold- so many bloody hoses everywhere lol.. Thanks to SAU, my ones fixed..

Ok before i go to bed... It was one of those straw vacuum hoses onto intake manifold from near the brake servo area, broke free from a crack when i cleaned the aac valve, only just saw that it was hanging down when i went to loosen the idle screw.. Of all the little things causing such pain..

Gtscot, what made u downgrade from the mighty 1JZ to the tractor SR?? Lack of aftermarket support?

Toot toot, guess guys...

Wasnt the idle screw but close..

Car fixed guys, i mean like completely, just fixed it now..no more engine shutting off, wheelspin in first n second easy as pie and a good solid shove in nuts when i want... So what was the problem you ask. Such the simplest of all things fellas...eeeehh ..grins bigtime like a cheeky mofo...shut the fk up and tell... Eeeeh will wait for a few guesses, ... Then the story comes, hope to help others with same problem

I will do the idle screw thing first tonite and let you know. What does the low boost do? Prevent less boost leak / air getting sucked from a suspected leak? I'm scared to play with the manual boost control as when I wind it back up, I do not want to overboost past 12psi..