rondofj

hahahaha I have no choice mate, I cannot drive to the exhaust shop...Was gona get some metal ties for the time being..

Cat's good of course - a 100 cell metal item, and ecu's been reset - today after work I will turn that idle screw open because I know I closed it too far to shut up the idle when I cleaned it.. This WILL solve my problem.. Well I think so..

Use a stagea ecu to test as it comes without TCS so shudnt create probs.

I mentioned. before that Im also running a stagea ecu on my R34 with R34 maps and Nistune - No TCS, hasnt caused me any problems at all except that theres no traction control. Have u tried swapping a diff working ecu Hanaldo?

Hehe good idea Jez. I am very grateful to u guys, ya all rock bigtime .. To Qwk32, I am yet to make a proper steel intake, when Jez tuned my car we made absolutely sure the intake wasnt sucking shut, and it didnt let us down thankfully. Same mods n boost then except the dump. As for adding fuel n timing to the idle points, I dont have the Nistune licence, laptop and cable to do so yet, but hopefully soon. I trust Jez had got this right when he tuned so it could have gone off whack with the new O2 sensor. What say DVS? I will definitely turn that idle screw to fully 'open' counterclockwise, correct?? Then get my mate to go for another run. To me it seems more n more a lack of air/ vacuum issue, the way it happens, like sucking all the air out from the intake on quick throttle release..

Thanks Harey, and GTScot, this is the type of answer every newbie whos lookin for his first aftermarket turbo wants to hear. Not what spec turbo will do what KW and Nm in what time, 0-400m time, all the tech bull. Quote from GTScot also : If you want 250 then go for the SS1PU, its arguably better than a highflow.. The benefit to the highflow is bolting it back into place and looking close to stock. But you are considering a G3, so I doubt looking perfectly stock is a big issue for you. Consider this: if you definitely want 300kw, then get a G3. If you will do every track day your local track can offer, you want a G3. If you will do 80% of your driving on normal roads you want a SS1PU. If y ou want good response, you want the SS1PU. Put the two cars against eachother, on a short coarse OR on the street the SS1PU will probably win every time.. On a more open circuit or the strip itself the G3 will probably win - pulling away in 4th gear.

STOCK CAT ONLY $20 FUEL PUMP $30 COIL PACKS $60 .. ...........

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I would just like to hear from those who have bought the below or similar from egay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Consult-Diagnostic-Scanner-Cable-14-pin-Reader-NSN-OBD-Fast-USA-Ship-/260924083182?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc0498bee Is it an ok product or some cheap inferior product? Recommndations? I would rather not spend $90 on a genuine cable from PLMS that will possibly only be used once or twice..

Hanaldo, O2 sensor is already tight now, before I went for a drive yesterday.. Power is back..but that was just one test so... BTW what is DTC, I only know TDC - top dead centre (timing).. The loss of power earlier COULD have been from the O2 sensor being only hand-tight then..

Ok, I'm hoping against hope its the bloody O2 sensor. There's no other problems whatsoever, but as mentioned earlier, when my friend took it for a run (O2 sensor connected), it felt noticeably sluggish and missing a fair chunk of power and torque, boost was ok normal, revving to 7000rpms was normal and clean, but there wasn't much shove/kick and it was slow to come too, had to hold pedal to floor to get the same amount of kick that normally comes at 3500-4000rpm. It was a HOT day, engine bay temps were hot as. Then yesterday I disconnected the O2 sensor (AND TIGHTENED IT WELL) and it felt powerful and snappy like before, no dramas. Boosting, revving, engine sound and drivabilty has always been smooth and clean. Maybe the ecu didnt pick up the O2 sensor then (when it was sluggish). Now the only remaining problem is the engine shutting down on quick throttle release, whether after WOT or coming to a stop at lights or pulling into drive... Might need to get a little laptop, ecutalk and a Nissan consult cable (cable off ebay good??) This is what I found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Consult-Diagnostic-Scanner-Cable-14-pin-Reader-NSN-OBD-Fast-USA-Ship-/260924083182?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc0498bee Or wait to get licence back and off to Yavuz..

Thanks, my boost holds nicely though - goes to 10-12psi very quickly and stays there, only drops to 10 from 12psi. Not unstable at all.. It is a funny issue, this engine shutting off - I have ruled the O2 sensor out because it does it even with it unplugged, battery is definitely ruled out, fuel filter wouldn't be more than 10000kms old, more like 5000km, but will change that I think. I am thinking its either the deceleration cut-out points in the tune or the stock bov leaking? A lot of people have this problem in all sorts of cars - and the culprit seems to be these things or the O2 sensor or even the IACV and TPS

Definitely should not be driving it, but did a couple of 5 minute runs, otherwise I get my friend to take it out when he is available.. Thanks for the suggestions on what could be potentially wrong with the car.

There seem to be a lot of members of sau with autos and mostly atmo aftermarket bovs who seem to encounter this exact problem of stalling upon rapid release of the throttle. Example stopping at lights or slowing down after WOT. Mine is a manual with stock plumb back bov, so tryin to figure out if thats the cause.

So how would you compare a 250-260rwkw R34 vs a 200rwkw one with the stock turbo?? MUCH faster? Or not that much in it really? Compare as in reasonable day to day driving with a quick burst here n there, motorways etc

This could be a debate of sorts. Many people in here recommend 270-280rwkw is as far as you wana go for a very responsive and very quick 2.5L street car. I havent been un one so cannot say, but that IS my power goal..

Thanks to SAU and some really top blokes in here, owe you fellas bigtime..

Lol at putting it up on blocks, but putting it on a truck and off to tuners is simply not smart financial sense as i dont need the car fixed asap, being suspended makes me all the more determined to bite tooth and nail, hunt for solutions and keep my car 'perfectly prepared' and waiting for me when i get it back. Not only does it keep me bUsy with an interesting hobby of tinkering with cars, but its taught me a huge amount of stuff and made me more n more confident at fixing little bits n pieces along the way while also keeping dosh in my pocket than into someonelse's, theres every bit of chance to get ripped off anywhere in this industry, such as Hanaldo's $300 intake...or was it more? Wink;

GTSBoy you could be validating a good suggestion about the decel cut points, maybe thats the problem, but why now all of a sudden after fitting my dump and O2 sensor? As for taking it to a decent mech/ tuner, it would be at Unigroup already... If i had my licence, or a fultime driver....

Hope its not the idle screw, cleaned the aac few weeks ago n set the screw too

It looks like a vacuum issue to me - suddenly release throttle then engine shuts down and these three lights come on.

When engine shuts down, three lights come on in dash- battery light, engine light and teapot light (oil press?)

V8tzr, new and old sensors both have two white wires each and one black wire each

Now this- damn iphone again for posting incomplete posts

Shit didnt complete my post damn iphone. Engine also shuts down at super low speed when releasing throttle suddenly as when approaching driveway. So O2 sensor not the culprit as its disconnected, WHAT could it be?? Battery is consistently holding 13.8V and idle is good at 900rpm after initial cold start 900rpm. Do i need to get a mini laptop nissan consult cable and ecutalk to diagnose?? And maybe even buy the Nistune licence and learn my own tuning?? Getting expensive, just did my couipacks

Ok guys so just disconnected the O2 sensor plug and went for a spirited run. Good and bad news. The power is back where it should be, boosts and holds hard all the way to 7k rpm, shove in seat is good, second-third gear is easily cop territory.. Bad news is the car shuts down after suddenly releasing throttle. As when boosting on WOT and then letting go throttle and decelerating.