rondofj

Shit man ur giving me the shivers.. Hope thats not the case.. I noticed it goes off always after WOT when u decelerate rapidly or a few times when coming to a stop at the lights. I cleaned my aac a week before changing the dump and O2 sensor and adjusted the manual idle screw, all was gud then, can i rule this out? I been reading on the net that theres a lot of pple having this symptoms with their cars, many have reported something to do with the car vacuuming too quick and stalling after releasing the accelerator, something to do with no air at that point and carbies in older cars, some have said its the fuel cut, something to do with the tune, the afrs, running rich at that point etc or the fuel pump earth needs to be better, yet for some pple it is the EGO gas correction mixtures/O2 sensor related? but why is this happening after i changed my dump and O2 sensor? IM really worried, no dont have a spare ecu and loom, how can my ecu be fried?

Stupid car feel like burning it lol..

I ran it for 5 mins boosting hard without O2 sensor fitted yesterday, there was a noticeable increased 'shove' than before and boost was quick, but after decelerating the car did the same thing as today- shut down and dash lights on. There was no power loss yesterday but actually a gain you could feel in terms of shove.

Its because theres quite a few posts where he is highly recommending (fair enough, each to his own) but also kinda pushing people to go HG, like really go for it, thats the one.. Hehe

Got this from :http://electromotivetec.freeforums.org/engine-stalls-at-wot-on-boost-and-ecu-datalog-freeze-t467.html f I accelerate at WOT, the engine *almost always* stalls once the boost has come on. On the datalog, when this occurs, ALL datalogged parameters freeze at their last value, and remain at those frozen values until I turn the ignition off and restart the engine. I mentioned that this occurs *almost always*...it doesn't ever seem to happen in first gear. I can run the engine all the way to redline in 1st gear without an issue, but in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear, the engine stalls out as described. ......... Well, the problem continued and battery voltage wasn't the issue. After about an hour of driving, tuning, driving, and tuning, I got the VE table close enough for my liking and decide to turn off the EGO correction...VOILA! No more stalling. Whisky Tango Foxtrot!??? I previously set the EGO parameters to disable EGO correction above 3000rpm and 120 kPa...every time the engine stalls, it's above 3000rpm and above 120kPa when the EGO correction should not be active. It's also during the acceleration period when the EGO correction should not be active (previously, adjusting the variable time enrichment duration made no difference...e.g. after this duration, the EGO correction *could* turn back on and run the engine lean; but this never is observed on the datalog.) So, let's recap: Activating EGO correction somehow causes my engine to stall, during RPM and boost where it should not be active to begin with. Disabling EGO correction is the magical solution. Well how about that? Hey, maybe I can short the coolant sensor and magically activate AutoTune VE Actually, Does it mean my new O2 sensor has f**ked up my tune and making it run rich and have these bizarre issues??? Havent heard anyone with these probs after O2 sensor and dump pipe install.

didnt use gasket goo, re-used old gaskets which are in very good condition

no its a bellmouth, there shouldnt be a leak - judging from sounds - all 5 studs and bolts are tight, the 6th bolt (middle passenger side) is hand tight as its so hard to get a tool in there

Scot, I sometimes wonder...ur not a secret agent working for Hypergear are you??

For list of mods, please see my signature - running gapped coppers at 0.8mm, nistune and yellow jackets. In summary : The car does accelerate, but very slowly, not much torque and not instant and snappy at all like before, no wheelspin/torque/power like before, but revs and boosts cleanly..boost holds well too. Engine shuts down after WOT & hard boosting...aaarghh.. Worried also about my intake pipe to throttle body and pipe behind fan both of which are too hot to touch. But pipe just after cooler at the bottom is at room temp so sweet. My battery is fine - holds 13.8 volts consistently so thats not the reason for shutting down. Running factory plumb-back BOV.

Hey guys, Here's my problem, hoping some of yous can suggest good advice: I just installed my new JJR dump/front and PEC Aust O2 sensor the day before yesterday. My friend just took it for a drive today and I came back very disappointed and frustrated. Firstly, there is significant loss of power when boosting, like it boosts ok all the way to redline, revs cleanly and boost holds 10-12psi, but that oooomph and kick in the seat is sooo gradual and not as hard as normal, its just so nothing special at all, even putting foot to floor, it dosent accelerate as quick as it used to before the O2 sensor and dump pipe install a couple of weeks ago. There is no missing, revs cleanly, boosts cleanly, boost holds, but there is NOT MUCH power, no wheelspin in first as normal. I installed coilpacks a few weeks ago and it picked up considerable midrange snappiness and torque then. The other thing I noticed today is that after driving on a hot day, my intercooler pipes - the J pipe just before the throttle body, and the pipe just in front of my fan is HOT like I can only touch for a second. Is this normal? BUT the pipe JUST after the cooler (cold side outlet) is cool like room temp which is normal and cooler hot side pipe is hot, so the cooler is definitely doing its job. But the pipes behind the fan and over the engine and just into the intake is too hot to touch, is this normal, or is this what is causing my power loss?? The turbo is running the heat shield but the dump is not, is this causing the pipes to be hot, dont think so?? Lastly the most frustrating bit is the engine shuts down after very hard boosting on WOT, no stalling/sputtering, nothing, just a complete shut down and lights on in dash, generally I found after hard boosting, but also in normal driving stopping at lights etc. Is this O2 sensor related??? Because these probs werent there at all before. The O2 sensor is not that tight, just hand tight and half turn with a shifter that I managed to get in there. The dump to cat is tight (grunting when tightening) but you can see the gasket edges (see pics) as its not a clean fit - slightly mis aligned.. But no exhaust leaks judging from sounds... My battery is fine - holds 13.8 volts consistently so thats not the reason for shutting down. And I have the factory plumb-back BOV. Please help! Driving me real nuts.... thanks in advance :(

Ur running the SS1 Harey?? So assuming ur at 260rwkw, hows the response and more important, the punch-in-seat feeling in ur R34??

Thanks for the link pipster- thats a gud price for timing belt, water pump, assuming idler and tensioner included??

Agree dont keep stock cat, get a 3" straight thru cheap lobokka 100 cell metal cat off ebay (5" body).. Yes it was direct bolt on, i rocked up at just jap and the dude there gave me a packet of rubbish gaskets n nuts too so i just used the stock ones which were in great nick, no gasket goo, hope that is ok. Is it?? But get a hanger bracket welded onto new pipe after fitting- drive down to the nearest exhaust place.. Get a new PEC Aus O2 sensor from Vulture Motorsport for 38 bux and drop that in.. If ur exhaust is free flow ALL the way, the difference this pipe makes is worth everything

we need more SS1PU results and feedback, I'm sure a lot of yous would like to see that, isn't it the 'star' RB25 street turbo currently??

really (idle complaints?) they are supposedly good shit, talk to Simon S14 in here, hes running them - Neo motor..

bump

why not just get these and plug connectors from bursons.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Siemens-Deka-60lb-EV1-SHORT-High-Imp-Fuel-Injectors-6-/390213457860?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ada88d7c4

tschh..Im still off the road for another 2+ months, well yesterday I fitted in my new JJR dump/front and new O2 sensor and cannot be happier with the instant response and pull factor..still some way to go..new injectors and afm..before I get the Kando or HG..ya ya I know my new dump will need to be modified if I go Kando..

True, am goin to get me a large shifter, some heat wrap and a 13mm spanner/wrench from super crap auto.. That middle passenger side stud(out of 6) in the jjr dump onto turbo is impossible to fit any tool into, its also hand tight but the other five are ok.

Just put in my O2 sensor today on my new jjr dump/ front, its only hand tight as i dont have the 22mm spanner, is that a problem?? Leaks etc?? Will the heat from driving- expansion n contraction eventually seal it?? There was a couple sealing washers with the sensor too.

Ok guys so just put in my O2 sensor - (crimped and then taped wires with elec tape ok???) put the supplied heat cover on wire too. Goes n boosts quite hard, didnt shut down/ sputter/ throw engine light on like yesterday.. But it was only a 5 minute spin as i cant drive for now. Gotta wait for mate to come take it out for a run.. Btw my O2 sensor is only hand tight as i dont have a 22mm spanner/ tool, is that bad??? Leaks etc? Im assuming the heat from driving will seal it in anyway?

The exhaust bit is niggling me- no supports in the middle, just hanging off the turbo and the next immediate hanger out the back near rear diff, long unsupported section in middle- refreshing to know u didnt have issues with that.. Also the exposed turbo hot side not such a good idea i think as it will increase engine bay temps and hence intake temps??? Lets see what others say...

Thanks for the replies fellows, really appreciate that, Hanaldo that noticeable lag at 2000 rpm is there for just half a second, after that it just lurches and i mean really lurches forward -instant 12psi on dial, very different than without dump, its really made that much difference. And part 3. of my post I meant that do I connect the new O2 sensor to old plug with black wire to black and two white wires on sensor to the two white wires on plug(heater wires??), does it matter which white goes to which as theres two? Part 4 of post: And mad082, im running 0.8 gapped NGK coppers and yellow jackets just installed a few weeks back as well as Nistune, so the spluttering/ stalling a bit and engine/ ign lights on and engine shutting down Im hoping is O2 sensor related, will put it on tomorrow and test..

Timing belt is scary.. Esp that crank pulley bolt.. Read up a tute on it- lots to remove- IC piping, radiator, fan, belts what not.. I dont understand the concept of a timing light either lol.. Way to go

Most things do it myself, the hard bits/ no special tools bits go to mechanics, tuning goes to my tuner etc. Stuff done by me: oil and filter change fuel filter change spark plugs & coil packs FMIC and piping install fuel pump install (had to get Jez to do the rewire bit) front/dump pipe install dismantle and clean AAC front lip paint and install window tinting to doors replace bulbs / fuses etc Stuff by mechanic: bits of 3" piping / welding / exhaust gearbox and diff oil change Stuff by electrician: Nistune soldering to ECU Stuff by my tuner: tuning of course misc and hard bits - turbo.manifold gasket fuel pump rewire thats it really, still in a pretty basic stage...