rondofj

Hey guys, Just installed my new JJR dump/front to my R34 and have a few issues niggling me which I hope to sort out asap: there is no centre bracket welded on the JJR dump/front and I made a make-do temporary hanger with 2 X metal hose clamps and a zip tie to chasis mount (see pic, zip tie wasn't in place then but it is zip tied to the second clamp off the exhaust pipe to prevent it melting lol. If you wondering why I didnt run the second clamp in through the hole in the chasis mount thats because the holes too small lol.. What can I do here, is it dangerous ti have the exhaust hanging off the turbo and the next hanger is way too far near the diff and mid muffler. Willl this stress my metal exhaust components?? Cant drive to exhaust shop, I'm suspended, but need a temp fix. I didn't install back the stock heatshield (for now), its a pain getting the dump bolts off with it and the brackets in place, just wanted it clean-cut. Under bonnet temps were noticeablly higher after a quick run in my side street. I've read posts where most pple recommend putting it back on, is this the go?? Dont wana fry my hoses and wires - see marked in red box, they are about 15-20cm off the exposed dump and turbo hot side, is this bad?? Haven't put in my O2 sensor yet, read posts where it is mentioned that the two white wires doesn't matter in which way they need to be hooked up. Is this correct? See new sensor and existing plug - do I just go black-black and white-white X2, orientation of white wires dosent matter? Finally the car, after warming up on idle say 7-10mins and then driving a quick 5-7mins went a lot harder, boosting much quicker and much stronger (noticeable lag down low 2000rpms tho??), BUT after these 7 mins it spluttered a bit, engine and dash lights went on and it died. Started up fine but stuttering and idle was dying again so I quickly parked it away, I noticed a bit of smoke out the rear and briefly a rich fuel smell then. Is this the ECU sensing no O2 sensor and running very rich and retarded?? I think JEZ tuned it WITH the sensor on. Whats with the spluttering and died once? Tomorrow I'm putting my new sensor on, just need to be sure of the wire colors.. Thanks heap if some of yous could enlighten me..

I also have the bottom right tray on the dash not hinged properly to the side and loose, and also have no lights/ fittings on the red door courtesy lenses... Hmmm dunno if its meant to be that way. Plus have clips missing in some of the boot trims as well..

Why does stupid Nissan put plastic/ceramic wheels on their turboes to save cost on such a critical component??

Fast RWDs. What is the fastest GTS-T/GTT in the world? 9 secs? The fastest Supra I know of is Ryan Woon's in the States which does the quarter in 8 secs something. Its a demon- look it up in youtube

What about 12 sec GTS-Ts, im sure theres many of those..

Hahaha! Looks like some of yous didnt get your presents this year..

Is that where YOU suddenly popped out from?

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Can u not use the stock ones? I got bolts n crappy gaskets from just jap when i got my jjr pipe.

U selling a pump as well as those rims bro?

I wud think so..

Hanaldo, i have the stagea ecu in my R34 for unknown reasons if that helps. Its running R34 maps though and Nistune. No probs, just dont have TCS/Slip, no light nothing..have the dual butterfly in the Tb.

Thanks heaps Roy, you have explained better than anyone else WHY the Kando IG turbos are not the greatest to have and why its inferior to typ IG setups, I have been all set to go an EG Kando setup from sometime back, and then yesterday some guy goes that hes goin to try the IG Kando setup and Im like I will wait to see if its good, then I will follow, but after your really good explanation above, I will stick to my EG Kando prospect...kudos!!

Im jinxed..

Not convincing enough Scot! I think you have tried about 3 times to push me towards HG turbos, for god knows what reason I have no idea at all.. Yep i have read the 10sec GTST, HG and a good bit of the Kando thread, so guess I will stick with and follow this Kando one and see how it goes... Call it the Kinugawa Jinx..

If you so insist, I got the comparison also from a couple of trusted guys who have tried both Kandos and HGs on similarly setup RB25 cars a few times, and hence also got good solid feedback on what to expect with either.. And where does the E85/ area under curve mumbo come from, are you trying to be a bigger keyboard hero by stating 'technical' stuff that even Joe Blow knows??

And JEZ's result on 20psi- but thats E85 based..

Ur pretty clever arent you, the dynos the only way to compare them right, smart-ass? If you were just a bit more smart then you would see in my first sentence that i mentioned 'after reading both threads..'- hence how I compared them, whether right or wrong, thats for anyone to decide and debate as thats what forums are about..seeing as dynos dont really define what it FEELS like to drive.

Its scary how these things dont sell, taking years.. Good luck bump for ya..

Pump his thread fellas, pump!!!

I think those numbers are the wheel sizes, hence the smaller numbers will spool faster

What are you implying?

Lol

After reading both threads the Kandos SEEM to produce more brutal neck snapping acceleration factor on the street, less issues getting there and seem to love boost and have lot more potential in them, maybe this also has to do with the setups being external gated.. AND theyre half the price of HG turbos (kinda adds up to same with ext gate, custom dump, plumbing etc), but then later down the track u canalways swap a newer better kando turbo cos its cheap!

Same same, I wana keep it internal too, but i think u can keep the stock manifold if u dont go bigger than TD06SL2-20G 10cm housing.. Which is kinda where im headed, till someone proves that the internal gate works too.. Dont know what the prob is, moreso issues with holding boost n boost creep as u say