rondofj

Damn and i was thinking of yellow jackets after readin some reviews of them., now im stayin clear, ur not the only guy to report their failure..

EVO or GTR - both the cream of Japanese cars.. Sadly I own niether..have to make do with a R34 GTT, but its still pretty nice..

Checked ur AFM? maybe its sending inconsistent signals to the ecu.

Ask simon s14 on here- he got siemens deka 700cc or something from ebay usa for real cheap- u need top feed high impedence injectors- i think u will have to add a coupla washers to lift up ur fuel rail a bit as the injectors are long

Ask simon s14 on here- he got siemens deka 700cc or something from ebay usa for real cheap- u need top feed high impedence injectors- i think u will have to add a coupla washers to lift up ur fuel rail a bit as the injectors are long

+ for DVS JEZ here

why not run your car on the speed-limitless roads of Northern Territory and dodge a few roos too??

Aaaah no, I dont have any amps or woofers, got rid of them ages ago, just have a normal Pioneer single DIN CD player which dosent work now (blew a fuse when I shorted the battery/circuits??)..dont have any fancy electronic gadgets on car

sweet, do you find it still has at least 12V when you get back?

So how do you guys leave your car when away for a few weeks?? Do you remove the battery or what?? I had a Prelude in NZ which had an alarm and immobiliser and I left it like that (didnt remove battery) for 5 weeks at a time for 4 years and nothing ever went wrong....confused..

Ok so just sharing my experiences here...please add your comments as you like.. So last year I went away overseas on a holiday for 5 weeks and parked my Skyline at my cousin sister's. Didnt tell her to start / drive it weekly. It was alarmed and immobilised when I left it. When I got back the battery had died and I had to jump-start it with her car and then it came to life, left it running for 5 mins when I should have actually taken it for a drive to charge it up.. Went upstairs to get some coffee and have a bit of a chat..back downstairs and the battery is dead again, so I jump-start it again and drive off home 10mins away. The next day I was lucky to start it and immediately drove off to get a new bigger battery with bigger terminals and more cranking amps. All good. This year I go off to Europe for 5 weeks and leave my car again at my sister's, alarmed and immobilised. She starts it once a week and leaves it running for 10ish minutes. On the fourth week the dashboard lights dim and the engine turns but wont start. She tries again, same thing. Leaves it and arms the alarm. The next day the alarm led is dead too and absolutely nothing happens when she turns the key in the ignition - the on, acc, start does NOTHING. I arrive back to find it like that. I get her car and 2 jumper cables cos the batteries are far apart. then I 'jump' the batteries with the two cables joined together, I notice her end of the cable in her car is HOT and smoking after a minute or two of revving her engine. Something shorted somewhere. I try to start my car. NOTHING happens. Few attempts at jump-starting. Nothing. On, acc, start does nothing. Completely dead. Rush off to get a new replacement battery. Same deal, nothing happens when I turn key in ignition. Headlights and horn work though. Hazards and ignition on/acc/start dosent. I scratch my head in a rage. I realise its a fuse somewhere, after testing/pulling out the fuses under the steering wheel, they all appear good. In the engine bay fuses, theres absolutely zero Volts in every fuse when it should be 12.6V. So I sort of think its either the earth grounding is screwed or the fuse(s) as the fuse box cannot get power at all. Cant figure out how to test it??? Get a mobile technician in. He tests and finds the 80A alternator fuse blown which he says is the result of my shorting it when I tried to jump-start the car and got the polarity screwed up or something. A new fuse comes in. Car starts. Me happy... lol what an experience.............

Use a shiny chrome 3" exhaust tip from any muffler shop and your power is guaranteed to be at least 270 rwkw. Throw in some stickers for a standout ride aswl

It took around or less than half an hour, he did it from the top, didnt have to go under the car, didnt remove turbo or any major piping, just the front bit

Its a Turbosmart T manual controller btw.

Mines hidden behind the ashtray lol.. u just take the ashtray out and theres the boost controller tucked in for easy access.. Do IT.

Hey Mr Rx7, I need an R34GTT O2 sensor as well, how much u selling them for?

why are people running these turbos at 17-18psi and not 22psi?? Whats the go with the dude above asking for a 14psi actuator, why not a 22psi one?? confused...

Hey Stao, could you super-impose the G1 performance graph in your earlier radar graph with the 4 other turbos, ss1, ss2, G3 and ss1 MU.

Please report back if u find a solution, would help us all

Yep agree on the JZ motors- even a boat soarer is i think a gud cheap package that probably handles like jelly, or what about a sleeper cressida? Given the 1jz or 2jz, mod for mod, any rb series donk will get smoked..and the jz motors will be more reliable aswl due to bein stronger..

Wow thats quite fast..

That is why i dont take it to workshops, not only that, i know a fair bit of stuff myself so nobody can really take me for a ride, and still learning from all yous awesome peeps on sau...this website is great thanks to ya all

Thanks for the reply so i guess a bigger dump WILL mess up with the afrs thus screwing up the tune, pretty annoying that u cant add things bit by bit without changing the tune, what about pple who change their full exhausts from stock i never hear of them havin a retune, exhaust is usually always the first of mods and most guys at this stage dont have an ecu to tune.. In my case i have the full exhaust n tuned ecu already, just need a 3" bellmouth dump that i dont have.

I was told the boost would go up a few psi with new dump because theres less restriction at the turbo outlet, hence it spins faster n quicker, therefore more boost, so retune?? Have seen most threads where peopke just do the dump but no retune..

Sorry to hijack, but this is also kinda similar, will i need a re- tune (nistune) after installing a 3" dump?? My exhaust system is 3" all the way except for the fkg stock dump.