rondofj

mate i sent u a txt in the weekend and also called, that number dosent work. Im after the front wheel mud splashguards and centre piece.

hey mate sorry for the irrelevant question, but are you running stock injectors??

It says on the kit that it increases NVH, is it really noticeable over stock?? Also with the max traction settings, does it make the rear end more soft - ie u can push the car down easier from the back

I been thinkin of starcorp impuls too, but heard they r heavy and have shitty offsets thus needing spacers to get a decent aggressive look???

Hey Pipster those injectors on ebay are cheap!! Will it fit on my Neo RB25DET without mods to the fuel rail/ other bits??? Are they good injectors? thanks

mate ur phone no. is not goin thru, i sent u a txt -from 0416424446 - i wanted to know the condition of the 3 front mud splashguards and the Z32, is it a real Z32 or cheap chinese one? where r u located in Windsor, can I come tomorrow after 230?

Hey who was doin the group buy, can i pick up, where in sydney?? I got a black 34 and very keen on this amazing idea.. When i was in my 20s i had a grey nissan sunny/ sentra b14 sedan and i stuck galv metal front lips on it with pop rivets!! Didnt look as crap as it sounds it was actually quite mean!.

Hey who was doin the group buy, can i pick up, where in sydney?? I got a black 34 and very keen on this amazing idea.. When i was in my 20s i had a grey nissan sunny/ sentra b14 sedan and i stuck galv metal front lips on it with pop rivets!! Didnt look as crap as it sounds it was actually quite mean!

Hey who was doin the group buy, can i pick up, where in sydney?? I got a black 34 and very keen on this amazing idea.. When i was in my 20s i had a grey nissan sunny/ sentra b14 sedan and i stuck galv metal front lips on it with pop rivets!! Didnt look as crap as it sounds it was actually quite mean!

+25 or +22??

im lookin for one too.....a 2nd hander...lol

Some things u can do yourself : Just park in neutral and rev hard to make sure theres no smoke out the back - black smoke = running rich/too much fuel?, sometimes it is the carbon/soot buildup in the exhaust that is released when hard-revving. Blue smoke = usually your piston rings are fked -steer clear, white smoke = burning oil / water I think. Take it for a drive, brake hard, judge if the brakes are good, no wobbling, shuddering (rotors are warped), should brake clean and hard Hard cornering - no funny noises, squeaks etc, should turn in nice and sharp, Judge steering feel, should be bit heavy and precise -point and go Hard revving - should sound nice and clean and power should hold well in upper rpms, no flat spots/ back-offs etc Check for exhaust rattle, turbo gasket rattle etc No crunching of gearbox when shifting at high rpms - smooth shift Again no funny noises anywhere Check no uneven wear marks in tyres, check suspension is balanced Check the usuals - lights, seatbelts, wipers, safety stuff Airconditioning, fancy electrical stuff- check all these Check body alignment by looking at an angle to see theres no accident damage etc, a trained eye you need for this.. Check all the fluids to see they are fresh - ie oil shouldnt be black - deep red is fresh oil Ask when / if the timing belt was done Taking it for a HARD drive is the best way to check that these systems are up to spec and can more than withstand abuse Then pay a workshop 50 bux or so to do an engine compression test - very important Thats as far as I know, Im no mechanic.. good luck

My TCS dosent work, never did, no light in dash, dont know how to make it work, the fuse box dosent have a slot for the TCS fuse?? Wheres the TCS motor located??

location? I'm after the front mud splashguards (L & R) and the centre piece, what would be your price?

Man QLD is cheap as chips compared to rip-off capital NSW..

Here's Mine: Sorry, here it is.. 186.7rwKW 545Nm Stock turbo, 12psi Disappointing power figure but very different and nice feel on street, very happy with physical result, but power drops off after 5000-5500rpms - as seen by the chart, can feel it on the street just as the chart indicates, lack of turbo ooomph after 5500rpms, that power result on chart was achieved at 14psi though, quite a disappointing number - was told my stock dump could be the cause. But then again it feels way faster and better to drive than the numbers indicate - fuel economy hasnt improved much though 15+L/100kms - but I do a lot of short distance stop-start driving and quite a few redlining as well..

any contributors??

True, a lot of these companies are owned by one corporation or something, I read that somewhere - Shannons dont do third party fire and theft and theres only 7 companies who do CTP.. Whicehever ways, Australians are ripped off big time by big businesses..

OK ok..so I know this has been covered a few times before.....BUT.....things change, people / situations change, businesses change over a short time.. So please allow me to start a CURRENT thread on whose got the cheapest / type of insurance cover and CTP (Compulsory Third Party - is this for Sydney only?) how much for, from where and driver detail Let me begin: Insurance - Third Party Fire & Theft - Just Car Insurance - $499 / year (covers damage to other persons car and $10,000 to me in event of fire and theft) CTP - QBE - $516 / year Driver - Male 33yo.

Mate, gimme that car or I'd chop ur nuts off...seriously the 370Z is no comparison to the R34GT-R, whether its looks, performance, streed cred or whatever, IMHO...Saw a 370Z in flesh at Parramatta Nissan and I'm like meh, its kinda ok, but not for me...looks girly and too small, but thats just me..Maybe I'm biased because I drive a black GTT...love it tho..

Good write up disco potato, great insight, what is your take on Hypergear ATR43 turbos compared to GCG hiflows?? I'm aiming for a super responsive and very punchy low-down 270rwkw street GTT.. Or am I better off with 250rwkw?

Natural reaction to not going up - apply a bit more power - which I realize is the wrong approach..

Don't know about that, my mate who was outside watching pointed out that the left rear wheel (outside of the curved driveway) was spinning but that was because he couldnt see the right inner wheel from his standpoint. I dont think its the diff/LSD because my car had straightened itself up on the straight part of the terrible slope and then wheelspinning like crazy. Which means both rear wheels getting equal grip at that time.. By the way my turbo kicks in around 2500rpm when it sees positive boost psi, by 2800-3000rpms it is at 12psi. Around 2500-3000rpms is what I would have been doing going up the slope after it started losing traction completely.... I would have driven in at 2-2500, it slipped, and then gone to 3000rpms and up to keep it from rolling back - but it never rolled back,. With the handbrake on and the car angled up the slope, I let the clutch out normally and throttle would have been 2500 and up - and massive wheelspin without movement.

Maybe you got a point, WLSPN, you could be right, I didn,t do those things, to the guy below you, VONCINA, ha ha yeah I tried that of course, all I got was massive wheelspin and burning rubber lol...

I only gave it some AFTER goin up a car length from flat area, then it started wheelspinning and not goin up, so i freak out n apply more gas hehe- and effectively doin a burnout!