rondofj

thanx man will try that if the tune dosent fix it, all i can say is that I am completely stoked with the positives of the fuel pump install - I expected a 0rwkw increase, but it FEELS like it has gained at least 30-40rwkw, completely different beast now, apart from 1-2 misses/ gasps below 2k rpms, after that it pulls like a train all the way to 7krpms - the response is very sharp and whack-in-the-back-strong throughout and doesn't taper off at all, now i know that the previous stock pump wasnt supplying enough fuel for my current application.. just cant wait for the tune, that should get me roughly 20rwkw or more hopefully.. love it.. For all those doing stage 1 mods - exhaust, intake, boost, FMIC, an aftermarket fuel pump is a MUST. I had always thought it was a stage 2 mod.

btw, I had to use my old sock as the walbro didnt come with one, it has a bit of play sitting against the bracket - I'm just worried that the sock to pump connection is not nice and firm - ie there is some play as I also used the stock isolator rubber cap, can the pump operate without the sock? By play I mean u can pull the sock nozzle away a bit and see a bit of the pump inlet.. worried about this

Ummm, what do u mean before something breaks - I hope nothing is goin to break with this minor? issue!

I was also thinking about voltage issues - man it is frustrating, was expecting it to run smooth, but yes, compared to the stock one which had dangerously high a/f of aaround 13.7 and up, I can feel a good amount more power now in the mid-high rpms and very much free to rev now - revs quick n smooth to redline - just the low rpm stutter/hesitation for 1-2 seconds which was never there..

Can the pump run without the sock - I'm just worried about my sock falling off, I used the stock sock with the stock pump isolator cap as I didnt get a sock with my walbro (lost the retaining pin) - it is tight now but has a bit of play and I'm worried bout that.. The bosh 040 install in the DIY didnt go about installing the sock..

Had a discussion with my flatmate, he said if its fine above 2500rpms and revs much quicker and makes more sharply noticeable power, then that has got to do with the tuning which is what I think - ie why its missing in low rpms..

it was the stock UNISIA JECS pump- almost the same size as the Walbro by a few millimeters, yeah mate, high rpms after 2500-3000 all the way to 7000 is much cleaner and freer to rev now no misses at all, can feel the difference and I know its not my mind playin games..

current mods are - 3" turbo back zorst, boost controller set at 12psi, pod in cold air box, FMIC, nistune (not tuned yet) - running stock r34 maps.. Any thoughts on why its missing after the pump install?? Its not major, just a few hesitations/ jolt kinda thing then goes hard after that to redline.. I'm thinking it needs a re-tune or the pump is not able to push enough pressure at low loads..

Hi all, Just installed my Walbro GSS342 in tank pump now in the dark, and I can tell u its no 1 hour job, I'm no noob, have done my own FMIC install, spark plugs etc, and I can tell u the fuel pump job I found almost as hard .. I have a problem - it is missing - like hesitating in low rpms below 2000rpms in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, havent driven long enough to see if it misses in 4th and 5th, its just small misses and once the revs go up, it feels way more responsive than my stocko pump, revs to 7000rpm very freely, cleanly and quickly where the stock one took a while. Why is it missing in low revs only (dosen't miss in idle at all - idle is now sort of 1000rpm, before it was 800rpm). I did a thorough job and didnt miss anything, does it need a re-tune??? I will take it to be tuned the coming weekend, it is running nistune at the mo but hasnt been tuned at all.. Please help fellas, I'm stoked AND hugely disappointed too... thanks

they got a 1000HP+ blue r34GT-R as well as their mostly JZ powered cars

Wouldnt wana say that in forums, I dont think its good practice, but their workshop is one of the best and cleanest I've seen, and they make some really insane 2JZ cars, plus a really top bloke they have there as well

Been to GAS Motorsport - the bloke I met there is so cool, a really friendly and helpful guy, u can tell they love their cars - they can tune same day - drive in and out provided theres no issues, plus u get to watch the tuner doin his tune, not only that, they have some really great prices too. Anyone tuned their car with Nistune there? And a awesome Supra they got in-house - GAS2JZ - 1200+HP at wheels! !

I knew I was missing something - no air! Becoming a bit of a bonehead now I guess - actually I think there r pockets of air in fuel, water etc, how do fish take in air through their gills? .. Who cares as long as my fuel tank doesnt catch fire lol..

ok, I just thought that those exposed crimp connectors will have current flowing through it - current = spark = fire in a tank of fuel! I know I'm missing something here tho..

thanks buddy, do u have to remove the rubber boots over those crimps - thats what the pump installation manual says, dunno why tho, PS - I always thought that exposed connectors / crimps / solder = exposed current / spark (amps) through it = heat = fire in a tank of fuel ! ! How come this is not so - ie spark = fire when fuel is around isnt it?

Hey man I owe u guys one, for all the help, thanks, gona attempt the install soon, got the pump - thought it would have the connectors on both ends of the wires but no, I still have to connect the 2 wires to the factory one to make use of the factory connector that fits into the cylindrical cap above. The other end of the wires have connectors that slots onto the pump. Dont have solder but got 2 crimp-type metal connectors (male n female) that crimp onto the ends of each wire and click together into place. They have a blue insulating cover like crimps - but I dunno if this is safe to use in a tank of fuel!! fire etc...

actually its 2 metal crimp type connectors with a blue insualtion cover around it - u crimp both pieces to the ends of the 2 wires and then those connectors - male and female, click in together.. Cant find pics of this on the net - wonder if its safe?? like fire safe as it will be in-tank??

putting in my GSS342 tomorrow - got some metal crimps to connect the pump wires to existing - as I dont have any solder devices.. Is this safe???

how does one secure the fule pump cradle to the tank - from pics on this forum it looks like it just slots in place?? Is it secure? Thought I would ask before attempting to change my fuel pump on sat

take off / point to point, then yes for sure, if both stock then sti is quicker (cos of AWD??) but not by much, but i think the nissans respond much better to simple mods - even stage 1 mods - the modded sti wasnt all that quick - maybe it was farked, but u do have to rev the guts outa it to feel all the torque.. It was 99 model 4 door. I think EVOs respond better to mods than STis

is it a tyre fryer in spirited street driving? what is the kick like - sharp and punchy or gradual/ linear ?? I prefer a nice punchy whack in the back..

man i want that turbo then...havent sat in a gts-t or gt-r with aftermarket turbo, been in a sti with aftermarket turbo, didnt feel that quick, maybe the same as a gtt with 12psi and stage 1 mods, but u have to rev the guts outa those four bangers compared to our straight sixes..

so what are most pple running as far as the atr43s are concerned - G2s or G3s etc?? Would be nice to hear from someone whos run both in a street setup - opinions..or the new SS profile

cheers scott - 240rwkw on stock injectors - hmm, point noted.

Hi all, sorry for hijacking thread, just want opinions on hypergear atr43 G2 (260rwkw) and atr43 G3 (300rwkw) - anyone driven bothe setups?? What are the differences / opinion? Of course I know that the G2 would come on and die off earlier, BUT i would like to know what are they both like to drive on the street only with some spirited driving - its for a RB25DET NEO on a R34 and I'm deciding which one to get in the future - current mods - full exhaust, FMIC, Nistune, manual Boost controller @12psi, pod in box, NGKs gapped at 0.8mm. Tuner says that for 260rwkw all I need now is a Z32 and turbo - no injectors, dunno if thats true. Fuel pump Walbro GS3442 goin in on the weekend. cheers Ron