rondofj

Is that right? The walbro looks like it is a direct fit according to a lot of blokes on the Silvia forums. Surely they wont all say that if its not..

Hey thanks Josh, I changed the fuel filter almost a month ago and noticed a sharper and crisper response afterwards so thats cleared. Here comes the pump now. So which Walbro model?? I heard there has been a lot of fake Walbros floating around esp in ebay, hence giving the brand a bad name. Who sells cheap genuine Walbros in Syd, I wanna know you..

I will give a crack at installing - just reading the Nissan Silvia forums, everyones recommending the walbro over the bosch for easy install, plus u get the parts like sock, plug, wires.. Nismo/Tomei are top shelf stuff not worth spending the extra quid on unless u building a dedicated dragster / time attack car etc..

Walbro pumps on ebay are much cheaper and come with the full KIT - sock, hose, clamps etc, why is everyone saying they shitty pumps, are they?? Which Walbro model do I need for the R34? cheers

Nice point Pat, thats what I thought, why couldnt he stop the lean-out with a tune, but then he did, he brought the a/f ratios down slightly by using the stock maps or so he said, and retarded the timing for safety. And excellent point about the stagea ecu multiplier, maybe thats the reason?? But yes I guess a new pump wouldn't hurt. Still dont know WHY anyone would put a goddamn stagea ecu in a 34..

Until I have the pump sorted. Tomei pumps are too expensive when a Bosch will do - do I need the 040 and not 044 correct?

So I had Nistune installed and he retarded the timing to provide a bit of a safety net and told me to not go over 2500-3000rpm.

Tomei which model no.? Will have a look on ebay. Tuner definitely knows his stuff, thats why he didnt tune it, said its too dangerous when he found out that its currently running 13+ A/F ratios. He suggested as I said above, to check the fuel modulator whatever that is and moreso the fuel pump.

Anyone else think I need a new fuel pump?? Now I'm confused on whether I need a Bosch 044 or 040..

Thanks dude, looks like the fuel pump will need to go, and the 'thing' that he tapped to adjust was the crank angle sensor I think. Before I end, I would like to add that my fuel sender unit is farked already a few months back (fuel gauge goin up and down), is this a good indication of the likelihood of my pump bein rooted as well? cheers

G'Day, Could anyone tell me what I need to do to solve the running lean problem I currently found out I have. I took my r34 (full 3" exhaust, FMIC, 12psi boost, pod in cold air box, and just got Nistune installed) to get a road tune with NIstune installed (onto my stagea DET ECU) and my tuner told me I am getting a dangerous air / fuel ratio of around 13 to 14 which I saw on his laptop, idle is around 15, so I couldnt get it tuned and was told not to rev above 2500-3000 as my engine could blow. I have been driving like this (running lean) for 10months and was told I'm lucky that my engine hasnt blown so far lol.. Please dont ask why I have a stagea ecu in my skyline, it was there..!! But the Nistune daughterboard has the R34 maps on it. I was told to get a Bosch 044 fuel pump as my fuel pump could be gone. But he took the time to explain to check the voltage between the modulator and pump - if its above 13V, then I need to cut the ground wire to the modulator and ground it to the chassis. If it is less than 12v, then my pump is screwed. What is this modulator, any pics of it on a R34? I think I might as well get the fuel pump done, but R34s are still kinda 'new' how can my pump be farked? Not only that, he adjusted my timing (tapping on the cylindrical grey metal cup object (held by 3screws) on the front of the engine timing cover) to the factory 15 degrees as it was set at 10 degrees before? Is this the way to go? Any suggestions anyone? (My tuner is excellent, a great bloke, and takes the time to explain things, I will not name him in case some of you don't agree to his advice). cheers

bump

Its the same cost wise as other Jap cars, but then again I do most things myself - parts are cheap

$150 ONO - cheap as.

$150 ONO. GOOD TO GO..

GPS trackers on ebay cost peanuts - around 100 bucks, I'm goin to get one asap, could be one of the best form of insurance???

man thats so totally f**ked, sorry to hear man, hope u get it back in one piece soon, why dont they make laws here to SHOOT AND/OR INJURE BADLY ON THE SPOT any crook caught in the act or after the act. I would support that law 100%. So guys, whats the best security now - GPS tracker?? how many of u have one?

BUMP..Got a few guys giving me ridiculous offers, please bear in mind that all sensible offers are welcome.

SOLD

SOLD

For me its all about the RESPONSE on the street - I know you cant go past stock - but how does the hypergear atr43 on a 280-300rwkw GTT / GTS-T compare to a 3071 or 3076 on the same car at the same power level with similar stage 1 mods - exhaust, FMIC, ecu, boost control, pump, injectors etc??

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the best way is to spend the entire couple of days at the workshop or plant a secret camera in the car..omg.. As someone said earlier, most tuners would basically give u a before and after dyno print out to make you happy and believe your car has had a fantastic tune...what with the power increase on the printout..unless its someone you know / can trust etc..

I dont think so, I think all tuners do a dyno tune then take it to the road to check that theres no knocks/get rid off knocks when they are present, they couldn't be arsed doing a road tune, when their time is money and another job is waiting in the line.. So there's no way to tell that your car has been road tuned unless you are a dud who believes most things people tell you and are easily mislead....ha ha

Dont wana spend on a 3071 or 3076 when I think the atr43 will do the job, correct me if I'm wrong??