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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    If your block is straight and your head is true there will be no blow outs. I reused a Tomei Head gasket (yes the same one) three times when I was sorting out an issue with my RB30 and it never leaked and so far as I know is still fine years later.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    Here is an example of what people ask for these engines but whether they actually sell for that is another story: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/listing-2602793939.htm?rsqid=83e6b9a17d3c4771a610e83bec4e373c-002
  3. KiwiRS4T
    That difference doesn't look enough for bent valves. In case you haven't already looked it up 21 is ignition signal and 22 is fuel pump. Have you thought of swapping the no 6 injector to a different location?
  4. KiwiRS4T
    So are you going to get a MAP sensor or are you happy with the MAF? Have you had it on a dyno? Guess it won't be possible for a while.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    I would be surprised if the GTT and GTR items were the same ...possibly the GTR item was modified to suit the GTT. Have you studied the photos? Is there anything about it that makes you think it will improve air flow rather than raise the temperature of the incoming air? Oops - see you have already exchanged your snorkel for a mushroom! Either way I guess the difference will be marginal.
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Yes the number is 42
  7. KiwiRS4T
    For optimum boost control I would think you should get a Mac valve and let your Haltech do the job (assuming its capable - my only experience is with the Link).
  8. KiwiRS4T
    You may have some other features such as mirror heaters that come on with your rear demister.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Hey this is 2020 - we have aeroplanes! And I know for sure that postage from NZ to the US is a fraction of the shipping charges that ebay sellers seem to want!
  10. KiwiRS4T
    That's the usual... and by the time you have finished you'll be off your P plates anyway!
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Yep these would be more suitable at around $250 AU each if they flow enough for your needs https://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-1650ccmin-e85-compatible-top-feed-fuel-injector/
  12. KiwiRS4T
    If you follow my link you will find that they were OEM on a number of Ford cars. Sorry you have to scroll more than halfway down the page til you get to the heading "Ford"
  13. KiwiRS4T
    That's right but no doubt Bosch makes various kinds of injectors. These appear to be for petrol engines but the table I found may not have all the info the OP requires. This is what Lithium was talking about: SPECIFICALLY about "Bosch 2200cc" / ID2000 injectors.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Well at least they are proper car injectors supplied to Ford https://www.robietherobot.com/storm/fuelinjectorguide2.htm (sorry you have to scroll way down the page til you come to the heading "Ford")
  15. KiwiRS4T
    I have one for the DET but don't know how similar it is... Pinouts M35 VQ25DET.doc.pdf
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Are you going to buy it back for the parts?
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Why was the maximum track 1560? Did the wheels stick out of the guard or was it an arbitrary number?
  18. KiwiRS4T
    I thought the two links I supplied corrected you. Both suggest its two adjacent pins either bottom left or top right depending on orientation. And its certainly not the case that you have to have a V spec to do this.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    ? It looked like your problem was that you were trying to short out the wrong pins.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    See if this helps: Or this
  21. KiwiRS4T
    I know that RIPS has built a number of tough RB30s which rev to 10,000 and more and make 1000 Kw without blowing up with a number of measures including bracing and grout filling - but I don't know if RB25/26 blocks differ radically from RB30 blocks. The ideal solution seems to be Bullet billet blocks but at $14.000 they are probably not for everyone!
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Forget the rear oil drain. If you anticipate having oil control problems read (say the last third) of the oil control thread for some solutions.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    How are you going to compare it - do you have some kind of test available?
  24. KiwiRS4T
    You will notice that no-one is suggesting a return to twins so I hope you have ruled that out. The two most simple changes you can try are 1. If it is difficult for you to get custom cams put your stock cams back in with adjustable cam gears. 2. Turn up the boost to 2 bar Then (and this may be the most difficult part) get a good tune. You say your tuner is not familiar with your set up and not comfortable with increased boost. Maybe you need to look around for a tuner who has more experience with turbo engines. I assume you have an adequate fuel supply. Do you know what kind of pump and injectors you have? Also a little worried about your coils - do you know what type they are?
  25. KiwiRS4T
    You have to accept that the ecu pinout diagrams are correct. Then you start from the ecu end of the loom and apply power to the appropriate terminal of the loom plug and see where it comes out in the engine bay and make sure there is a connection through to where it is supposed to go. I suppose you know that you can't just use a multimeter in the engine bay end because many of the ecu pins do not supply a current but act as an earth.
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