KiwiRS4T

Go for a ride in the one I posted above (in Manukau city) to see if you like it...he might go down to $5k. It won't be lightning fast but for no cost you can reroute the hoses to get a bit more boost and a bigger exhaust and gutted cat etc will make it quite zippy. You sometimes see repossessed ones being auctioned and they go for less but the Manukau City Car looks mint and i sometimes regret that mine is not as original as i would have liked.

Mine was already in the car but if you are getting a brand new one it should come with wiring instructions and you can have alook and see if it means anything to you and if not a sparky should be able to do it in 30 mins (or phone around a couple and ask for a price).

You have got the chips the wrong way round. If you look on the instructions you will see that they both have the same PIC number but IC1 has written to the left , vertically, the number EZ8996 and IC2 has printed left to right just below it (LINE) EZ8997 and these numbers are printed on the chips ...also can't see from your photo but cutouts on the chips have to go as per the printed diagram ( up for LC1 and to the left for LC2) Other things to check (can't see from your photo) is that the jumpers should be left off (or removed) from LK1 and LK3 but the one on LK2 should already be in the right place. The usual reason for lack of display is that you need to turn the trimpot all the way up (clockwise I think). If you think you have damaged a component you should be able to get a replacement from Jaycar. There is a link that some people forget ( I can't see mine just now its in the car ) but I think there is one that goes undert the DB25 socket - I''l have a look when its daylight and check. Some warnings: always plug in the hand controller before powering up. Also it seems a good idea not to switch between boost maps while powered up. (I plan to use one map only anyway). I have these kits for ages and have only just finished them (I would have bought them assembled if I could) but haven't got around to installing them so I will try to install at tleast the IEBC in the morning.

This looks like the best buy on Trade Me at the moment - good Km looks good in photos - haven't checked it out because I already have one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-176055917.htm Would be a good buy at $5k to $6k

Have a read of the last page or two of the "poll:stroker kit of choice " thread in this section - I have PM you re going to R.I.P.S for some info and pos parts

You can avoid R&R with an Apexi SITC and SAFC (or the Jaycar DFA) and a good boost controller such as Jaycar EIBC.There are at least a couple of guys on this forum who will remap your ECU: Toshi and Dr Drift

Can you post up your dyno graph? What is the air/fuel like? If you have spark and compression check out the fule supply (filter, pump, regulator, injectors) - what did the dyno guys have to say? If its totally ummodified 110kw isn't too bad.

Just look under the bonnet - check the plate. The RS did come out in n/a form but I'd give it a miss - all the disadvantage of a big heavy car with only a 2L non turbo engine - if you're on a budget you would be better off with the Avenir and save up for a 2.5L RS4T. There was a mint low km (80,000) RS4T in Manukau City just now for $6500 - you might get an OK reposessed one for about $4k to $5k if you look around. Give me a phone in Auckland if you like (09) 838 8602

I can't follow your graphs. You say both runs were at 1 bar of boost but one chart says 15psi (around 1 bar) but the other seems to say 200 kpa (about 2 bar).

That ECU number you have quoted appears to be for an auto. Ref http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/E...ntification.txt but to get the correct ECU for your car you need to go on this site to "Vins you want fasted"and someone with access to the Nissan's "FAST"system will be able to give you the correct number for your car's ECU if you give them the number from the ID plate on your car.

The tuner should adjust the timing to eliminate any knock. For best performance also get an Apexi SITC to get the best timing across the rev range.

These are for front only. S = slotted l=left r=right a= heat treated (optional, more expensive but better). I believe these are made in Australia so you may be able to track down the manufacturer or else try some other auto parts places (not Nissan). p.s. If you are on a budget (for now) and not intending to hammer the brakes you could see if the rotors could be machined.

There is nothing special about the Nissan fluid except the price. You can use the same ATF in the auto, Atessa and power steering.

Just get the Bilstein shocks and tell the guy you still want a decent ride and they should be able to valve them accordingly and still drop it 30mm or so. If not you can look for some springs later (not Teins - I reckon mine are too hard).

I'm sure you will. If you look at my chart you will see the power goes up sharply between 5000 to 7000 rpm. (I expect that fitting the IEBC will bring that power up earlier in the rev range).

Did they advance the timing until it knocked and then bring it back a bit? If so by how much - 1 deg at a time or more? I've got an Apexi SITC so I plan to have a shot at doing this myself although it is not directly comparable because i guess in your case they are adjusting the base timing and it has to be safe at all rev ranges but I would be interested if you noticed how big (or small) their adjustments were.

Perhaps someone with access to FAST could compare the part numbers.

Yep your neo has a slightly bigger turbo and possibly different cam timing from my Series I auto which made 155AWKW (see above for chart). But when I install my IEBC etc and give it a tune I expect to get quite close to your figure.

Yep I just went there because someone else organised a dyno day. I plan to tune the car myself. I have bought an LM3 kit (O2 broadband sensor with datalogging meter) and have made up my own remote "det cans" ($20 radio mike and $15 radio earphones). Just have to fit my IEBC, DFA and SITC.

1997 Series I RS 4 T (auto) So far I have the front pipe fitted, cat gutted, replaced the SMIC with a Trust SMIC (bit bigger than the GTT one) uprated fuel pump and turbosmart fuel pressure controller. I threw out the pod filter and put back a factory cold air box with a Pipercross element. Not having yet fitted the boost controller I have bypassed the solenoid and am regulating the bleed with a needle valve to control maximum boost (can't wait to get my Jaycar boost controller fitted). When I have the IEBC, DAFA and SITC fitted and tuned I expect to get around 170 - 180 AWKW and since I want 200+I will have to upgrade my turbo. That should do it but if it doesn't I may finally be forced to fit a FMIC.

How are you regulating your boost? I guess you are on a budget like most of us or else you would have a Power FC or suchlike already but I would recommend getting a Jaycar Independent Electtronic Boost Controller or if you are just bypassing the solenoid reduce the size of the restrictor to lower boost. Mr car made 155AWKW (200bhp) with the stock turbo on 10.5 psi and i would expect to do quite a better with a GCG highflow. Have you still got the standard side mounted intercooler? If you car is a series II then maybe you already have the GTT SMIC otherwise that would be a worthwhile cheap and simple upgrade. There are two or three aftermarket options for the SMIC and I was luck enough to find a cheap second hand Trust one. But maybe first upgrade your fuel supply (pump and regulator) if you haven't already.

If they are the same as my RS4T then: Front rotors: DBA 4909SR and DBA4909SL (left and right) ...no longer certain about numbers for rears. BUT check prices and dimensions (esp offset on rears) before you buy. I think they are the same as S14 200SX (if they are more common in Australia) But double check... thre has been much confusion

I can't see your graph. Could you post up the KW please?

Have a read of the SK suspension thread. You should be able to adjust the ride height by moving the position of the circlip on the Bilsteins (that is the shocks) unless you have very much shorter springs (presumably not Bilsteins). I lowered my Series I Stagea by about 30mm so I have plenty of ground clearance except when angle parking on old fashoined high kerbs.

If you leave those fuses out in a Stagea you'll end up with a stuffed transmission (do some readind in this forum). BTW Jonny 200 pounds is AU$421 or NZ $516!