KiwiRS4T

Power loss is not a percentage but a fixed amount of power - I think SK estimated 70kw for the Series I 4 wd

This appears to be the manufacturer have you tried contacting them? http://gizzmousa.com/boost-controller.html these instructions are for a different model but they may help you or you might be able to get the right ones by asking above http://gizzmousa.com/file-copies/Gizzmo-MS-IBC.pdf

Thanks for that - will do.

Do you have the code for the front bar? I'm looking for a 24mm front bar for my Stagea: BNF27XZ or BNF27XXZ - would be happy to pay postage to Auckland NZ if you have the right bar. bobvanruyssevelt@yahoo.com

Sorry... unable to delete Posted in error

MyStag260 lists an attessa torque split controller in his sig - perhaps contact him? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/m40810.html

Have you checked out the R32 and R33 ones for sale in the general parts classified? (And no, I don't know which ones might fit sorry). Another thought - some shoe repair or clothing outfit could probably change the colour for you.

"s"just stands for standard super copper core electrode 5 is higher up the heat range than 6 but I don't know if that would make a dramatic difference 11 means pre-gapped at 1.1mm The improvement probably comes from the fact that you have put in new plugs.

Buy a manual. If you're determined to convert there is heaps of information in the DIY section above: Manual conversion check list 2 "how to" threads one on why not to convert (editted - having regard to your comments on having problems finding a low mileage example)!

GTT is thicker and taller see below for dimensions and pictures; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...age-t69501.html

I've had 40 cases of wine inside 12 sheets of 2440 x 1220 x 20mm particle board on the roof, all kinds of large furniture items inside... After spending $2000 odd mine handles pretty good and, yes its quite heavy at 1620kg kerb weight but so is a Commodore SV6 @ 1733kg, a BMW 530i @ 1645, Alfa 159 wagon @ 1680 or an Audi RS6 @ 2025kg! Having said that I would have a Skyline but 1. I'm too old 2. Too much persecution from the law enforcement (my Stagea is bog standard on the outside but working towards the 200AWKW on the inside).

I bought a kit with a gasket and a filter but when I dropped the pan the gasket was stuck to the pan so it could probably have been reused - you could always put a bit of gasket sealer on to make sure I guess. (Make sure you have a plan b - someone else with a car to go buy a gasket in case you destroy yours getting it off but mine came off in one piece OK). Good luck!

- Sorry haven't got one but the front looks the same as my series I.

I have just done the auto fliud - what a mission! Drain the pan but note that the plug is not at the lowest point so when you drop the pan it will still contain fluid (yep it went everywhere). You need to drop the rear gearbox mount to get the pan off so you need plenty of stands/jacks. I replaced the filter but the one supplied was not quite right - had to cut off some of the square pickup pipe. You could probably just wash the old one. The pan was full of gunk so I am glad that i took it off. I put the pan back on (after I worked out that the new filter was stopping it from going on) and then pulled off the supply hose to the oil cooler and stuck it in a plastic 2L bottle and ran the engine til it filled. then I poured 2L of new fluid down the dipstick tube and repeated until the fluid ran clean. I used about 15L in this process ( I got a 20L Fuchs Titan 4000 semi synthetic cheap $60). My last Stagea I took to an auto service place that did a flush for $300 and they didn't even take the pan off so by doing it myself I am satisfied that I got it as clean as possible even though it was a major hassle. Even if you have to pay more for the ATF it is good for your peace of mind to do it yourself. You will probably only ever have to do it once!

Terrific car. If it were on the market in NZ I would seriously consider selling my house to buy it!

I have a head unit that plays MP3 or ordinary CDs . The centre console holds about 8 or so Cds and that gives the passenger something to do on a long trip. I wouldn't want a remote stacker but if you do some people put them in the left hand trapdoor in the boot (I have an amp under the passenger's seat).

Thanks for all your trouble. I tried to edit my earlier post to say that i had doble checked my old bars and SK's thread and established that I do want the 24mm bar but they were a special order and a lot of people were probably also confused and ended up with 22mm bars which is why i don't like my chances of getting one but I thought I'd give it a try. Ironically now that SK has taken over their manufacture they are no longer exported so i may have to try to find another brand or get one custom made here in NZ. Thanks again for your trouble. ...Bob

I don't know exactly who you're dealing with but try an enquiry via: gary.cook@superiorsuspension.com.au] or Matt Cook Superior Suspension 4 Lincoln St Minto NSW 2566

Thanks but have you still got your old bars to check? SK's initial observations did read like that: "The front stabiliser bar is 22 mm hollow, like an R33 GTR. The rear bar is 19 mm and solid, like an R33 GTS" but later he reverses the solid and hollow bars: " After I fitted up the bars I did about 100k's driving around Sydney, in Saturday traffic mostly. As you may have noted from the above, I set the rear bar on full soft and the front bar on full hard. That was my guess, as the rear bar was a pretty big upgrade going from a 19mm hollow bar to a 22mm solid bar (more than 155% increase in roll stiffness), so I figured softest setting would be a good place to start. On the other hand the front bar upgrade was pretty mild, going from a 22mm solid bar to a 24mm (42% increase in roll stiffness) solid bar, so I went for the hardest setting" and " As you can see from the pictures of the box it was BNF27Z, and I measured it and it was 24 mm. When I ordered it, I ordered "BNF27Z, 24 mm front adjustable stabiliser bar for 1997 Nissan Stagea". So I got what I ordered" I still have my old rear bar and it seems hollow wheresas the front bar on the car appears to be solid although it is raining so I did a very quick check. So I am still in the market for a 24mm front anti-roll/sway bar.

I'm looking to get mine done by GCG - how does your guy compare - what was the price?

I have all of the SK suspension kit but the front anti-roll bar is no longer available in NZ. If someone didn't get around to fitting theirs or wants to claw back a few dollars from their car before selling it or maybe has one from a wreck i would be most grateful if they were prepared to post it to me in Auckland. I am looking for the BNF 27 possibly with one or two XX after it and either adjustable (Z) or fixed would be fine so long as it is 24mm (the 22mm is still available here but that is the standard size on my car now). I know it would cost a few dollars in postage but am quite keen to get one!

Congratulations to those that did this themselves. I paid an auto electrician $300 to out and in the dash and it sounds as though it was money well spent!

Sounds like an exchange rechipped ECU. It will get rid of the 180k speed limit and remap your mixture and timing. Unless they will tailor make one for your car's stage of development (exhaust? Intercooler? bigger turbo, injectors etc) then it may not be all that great. If they do tailor make it then it will not be ideal if you further upgrade your car. If you are interested in this approach read below Tangles "remap ECU" thread. He has a "local" person (Toshi) to do the work who can probably make adjustments etc cheaper than Mines.

I would like one. PM sent.