KiwiRS4T

You're kidding right? Of course the order of the injectors matters. And of course you can extend your wires as long as you like. You'll probably need a longer accelerator cable as well. And I take it you have an aftermarket ECU??

Have you had a look to see if the whole R32 drive train including rear end will fit in the R33 (you may need to use the R33 drive shaft if it fits or get the R32 one lengthened if it doesn't). The R32 has an R200 diff and the R33 only has an R180.

Strangely the R33 has the same cam for DE and DET but the Neo has a dramatically lower lift for the exhaust. You should be able to pick up a stock Neo DET cam easily from someone who has put Poncams or suchlike in. Not worth getting aftermarket - you'll just go slower.

BTW what engine are we talking about? RB20? RB25? Neo?

Try an email to the factory quoting your part number.

What do you want to know? Google Arias Pistons and there are heaps of entries including the makers.

Tolerances are in the engine manual. If you don't have the necessary micrometers etc you can hire them.

This is an article about LS conversions. It is not new but many may not have seen it. I am not myself interested in arguing for or against LS conversions but this is a good resource for anyone interested in the subject. https://themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2015/6/19/ls-v8-conversions-is-the-grass-really-greener-we-talk-to-the-experts

Your best bet is a Nistune chip. It will give full ability to tune and look stock at a good price. Depending on where you are if your tuner is not keen find another tuner. The only worthwhile easy/cheap mod is a small increase in boost. Then a better exhaust and front mounted intercooler will help a little but for a decent power lift you are looking at big money - a better turbo etc.

Wait til the car turns up. The intercooler will be perfectly adequate for the engine which is no ball of fire. If you plan to modify it with a massive single then you can get an appropriate intercooler at that stage.

What is it that you want to convert and why? The 32 sedan with an rb20det and manual gearbox sounds like the better car. Got any pics?

Nice looking car - I am a fan of the R34 4 door - I hope you're not really drifting it - shame to wreck such a mint car.

I think you have made too many assumptions with your wiring. Has the ecu got the required power supplies and earths connected? Pull the plug out of the ecu and assuming that the pinout diagrams ( they all say the same thing) are correct, test every wire to see if it is going where you think it is and where it ultimately goes to. Have you got fuel at the injectors? If you turn the CAS by hand can you hear the injectors? Are the plugs sparking? Have a read through this (there is some useful info half way through) https://www.gtrusablog.com/2016/07/nissan-skyline-gt-r-ignition-coils.html

Just read an Aussie test of ten tyres and Dunlop Sport Max came out on top in most categories. I was looking because my new (to me) car came with a set of brand new HiFly 805 (and they came between 8th and last in everything?). https://alltyretests.com/hifly-hf805-test-review/

Its got to be stolen. The km is unbelievable and where are the plates?

Follow the sound...

How's it going? Just came across this: they also sell the parts

Most popular seem to be BC MCA Bilstein You don't say where you are but a competent suspension shop (not Peddars) should have some options for you. Search and you will find.

Yes There are plenty of detailed step by step instructions around in our forum, and many popular skyline forums out there (This is your cue to Google the question).

I know you're not going for power but have a look at Hypergear's latest effort with a Neo engine - 523 RWKW without FFP....

Excellent result. Just for the record is that with the stock throttle body?

No. Just need to put it in neutral. If you put a wire on the starter solenoid you may (or may not) be able to inch the motor around. If you take all the plugs out you may (or may not) be able to turn the engine by the fanbelt if you can hold it on the fan. Otherwise yes, spanner.

If there is a straight line from the plughole to the piston you can try this: Remove the plug and put something in the hole that will stick out of the top. Turn the engine over by hand until you observe tdc and then see the piston starting to go down again. Then use a strong (probably wooden) stick and try to push the piston down. If it moves appreciably without the engine turning you have a problem.

The only sure way to eliminate boost leaks is by pressurizing the system . You can't tell if a joint is leaking just by looking at it and often boost leaks occur out of sight.

Your computer can set lower boost levels in the lower gears. Different suspension set ups. Drag friendly tyres.