KiwiRS4T

I see Link seem to approve of this unit but as it is a Haltech item have you tried emailing them? And/or email Link

You need to read more carefully. There is no mention of baby oil anywhere. The run in procedure is important. I would want to be there. To repeat a relevant question have you measured any oil consumption?

By run in I mean the initial start up and first hour and first 1000km of running the engine. How did you do it? And what is bore oil?

I upgraded my Stagea brakes to GTT and with a stopper, braided lines and better pads they were more than adequate for the road and coped with a couple of laps on the track - but didn't last well after a few laps. I upgraded to 330mm 8 pot D2s (same as K-sport etc) and better brake fluid and had no more trouble. If you just want better brakes you could try fitting a stopper, braided lines, new fluid and better pads. If that doesn't meet your needs then probably the next logical upgrade would be 324mm GTR brakes.

Did you run it in hard with mineral oil or baby it with synthetic oil? If you don't run it in properly you will end up with glazed bores and rings that don't bed in. Have you measured your oil consumption? Re the tuning do you have a wide band sensor installed?

Stageas have a leather option - (don't know about skylines). You may have to slightly adjust one of the four mounts for an R34.

R32 and R33 GTR seats will bolt straight in. R34 GTR seats will need a minor modification to the mounts - but not a big deal.

Yes its too much to ask. Aftermarket seats are usually race seats which you probably don't want. So you are restricted to a few other Nissan Models such as 350Z, Fuga etc and not all of them will bolt straight in. So you can do what I did - buy some Recaros from an Evo or a Honda etc but then you have to get a suitable frame and sliders and make them all fit. This will then require certifying - often with new seat belt mounts that bolt to the floor or tunnel.

According to Hoyle... Rank: RB25DE Members 0 324 posts Gender:Male Location:Manila Report post Posted February 2, 2004 Yes the different HP outputs quoted by different people is confusing, but not if you realise that N1 Turbos have different configuration from year to year and above all variations in boost, head work, cams, injectors, manifolds, EMS tune etc. All contribute to a different vehical response, driveablity and output. BNR32 (NISMO)......Serial No. 14411-06U00 (F/M273 deg. plain thrust bearing centre) T04B Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 62T T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and CD79 BCNR33 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-24U10 (F/M360 deg. plain thrust bearing centre) T3 Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 55T T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T Included this for information...all R34 GTR's are Ball bearing turbo's...all previous models are only plain bearing. BNR34 ......Serial No. 14411-AA300 (Ball bearing centre) C100 Compressor with a 0.53 A/R and 50T T25 Turbine with a 0.48 A/R and 62T BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA401 (Ball bearing centre) BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA402 (Ball bearing centre) BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA403 (Ball bearing centre) C106 Compressor with a 0.60 A/R and 55T GT25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T regards Phillip Quote

If you state the year and size of your engine someone can probably tell you what colour your injectors should be (supposing that the engine hasn't been modified).

And make that 2/3 change carefully or you will be needing gears as well as synchros.

The Michelins would be good street tyres but I believe they are quite pricey. Have a read through the tyre thread to see what other people have used. As per Murray's suggestion I had a spare set of wheels with slicks for the track. if you can afford it you could buy new ones. I used to buy used tyres from the V8 racing teams. They were fine for my purposes.

Well the correct answer is it doesn't go anywhere. Apart from the big hose that goes to your brake booster you should have a hose to your BOV, one to your FPR, one to your boost gauge (if your car comes with a boost gauge someone might have put an aftermarket one in as well)...there might have been a line going to a boost controller as well before it was realised that was a mistake....

Rays CE28N are available in a wide range of offsets https://www.vividracing.com/ce28n-10spoke-c-4593.html

I would just reiterate that the so called "oil drain " at the back of the head performs no demonstrated function. Then again it also will probably do no harm. There is little room between the RB engine and the bulkhead. How it fits on your car you should be able to discern by measurement.

But you still have to measure them because they are made in many , many different combinations ( for you the constant will be x x.xx to 66.1) although the most common is 73.1mm.

Z32 is better i think as it has the ability to control VCT.

Rb hubs are 66.1mm Most aftermarket wheels are 73mm and you will need hubcentric rings. What wheels are you using? If they are off another Nissan such as a 350Z etc they will most likely also be 66.1mm

You are not a punching bag. People are trying to save you from a world of pain. At the end of the day if you do go ahead (and anything is possible given enough time, money and determination) you could end up with something you don't really like..

Sounds good! If anyone over here wants to try it I have a Fairmont with 186,000 on it they can have for $500 drive away! BTW I think the RB diffs are pretty bullet proof and will take a lot more torque and power. Its the half shafts that break after 500kw.

Hi James! The Stagea section is named "Wagoneers" now and you will find a wealth of information there. Someone has even summarized a lot of the M35 information in one thread...

That was 10 years ago - he's probably got married, sold the car and drives a Mazda3 by now! For some ideas for your car go to the top of this section to the RB25 turbo upgrade section and you should find a few cars with turbos like yours.

That'll teach you for using a Honda engine!

No amount of tuning is going to give you significantly more power with the stock turbo and nor will changing manifolds or air intakes. Go to the forced induction section and look at the RB25 turbo upgrade thread and you will see the kinds of things that people do to increase performance. And look at the Hypergear thread. Tao has done a lot of work with Neo engines.

Why are you wasting money on manifolds? The stock items will be good for at least 350kw which your stock turbo is never going to threaten. As above get a Nistune and save up for a better turbo and the injectors etc to go with it.