adamp_r32

thanks guys, sorry if it was the wrong section, whooooops. lol

OK guys, Oil pressure on my skyline is at a tad under 4 when driving (never goes over 4) and abit under 2 when idleing and that to me seems low, im positive it used to be higher. So my oil pump is obviously on the way out and ive been told its an engine out job? Any information would be good. Cheers, Adam.

carby cleaner??

Ok the noise makes sense(the vibrating) but the start-up issue must be to do with something else then, it is not normal. I primed the pump 5 times this afternoon waiting about 10 seconds between each time and it still cranked for about 8 seconds before it started. For a reasonably stock car with the standard ECU it shouldnt be doing this... aaargh!

i wouldnt worry about it man, its not doing any harm so just leave it lol. could be for alot of thing but if its not connected then it doesnt matter.

Ok so i have a few questions regarding the bosch 040 fuel pump in my r32 gts-t... Firstly i have a hard to start problem, the car will start fine of a morning after its been left over night but if i leave it for half an hour or so after driving it will crank for about 5 seconds before it fires( regardless of how many time i turn the key to ignition and prime the pump, and also regardless of whether i give it any throttle) so i dont know whether this could be linked to the fuel pump or not, but since i have tested for injector pulse, put new plugs in it, injectors overhauled and cleaned, new fuel filter and coolant temp sensor... i figure its my next place to look. Also after starting the car i get a funny sound from the fuel pump like a grindy sort of sound, fairly loud (noticeable over the rather loud operating noise of the pump) and if i rev the car and hold revs on it, the noise dissappears. But as soon as i let it just idle again the noise will come back. I remember reading that their is an electrical trick to do when installing the 040 to do with the voltage the pump receives? could any1 shed some light on this? I also did a fault code check on the ecu and got code 55(all ok) Any ideas?

As the title states, i am after a front mount intercooler and piping kit to suit an r32 gts-t. Post up if you have something suitable! cheers

I doubt it would be in your engine but if it is, the only way to get it out is to pull the engine down

The process is no different mate, just start from furthest corner away from the master cylinder and work ur way to the closest when bleeding.

What sort of pressure would they run at? im just after the part number because then i can go and buy a brand new one

does anybody have a part number for a fuel pressure regulator for an r32 gts-t???

go with 2pack u will get alot better shine and its easier, and suprisingly not hard to spray like everyone says...

I wouldnt even worry about using an engine flush, some people believe not to and other people swear by it. If you change your oil and filter every 5000 km's and use decent synthetic oil then u shouldnt have any problems. But dont put it in after u change your oil and filter because if u had a flush in it and ran the car with it in until its next oil change, i reckon it may do some harm. And if u do use it you only really have to run the engine for 15 minutes or so.

Just wondering if anybody knows the genuine part number for a fuel pressure regulator to suit an r32 gts-t, I need a new one and am steering clear of aftermarket ones due to stories ive heard about some of them and im not aiming for over the 200kw mark, anytime soon anyway. So if anybody knows the part number that would be great! i would ask at the local dealership except they are a**holes and dont know sh*t from clay. cheers

Well why would u have to bleed the brakes if ur changing ur brake pads? u only have to bleed the brakes if you are doing a brake fluid flush(which is supposed to be done every 2 years) or if you have air in the system. Some people undo the bleeder valve when they are compressing the piston back in, this prevents putting pressure on ur master cylinder etc but other people just suck abit of fluid out of the resevoir(to stop it over flowing) and compress the pistons which pushes the fluid back up. If you are doing a flush you would suck most the fluid out of the resevoir, fill it up again and then bleed each corner(starting from the furthest away from the master cylinder) and suck the fluid through till u see a difference in color. Just keep an eye on the fluid level coz if u suck the resevoir dry u are well maggoted and is a pain in the ass. As for topping up the fluid it should say on the resevoir cap whether to use dot 3 or dot 4