Black33

Hey All, I'm looking for a cheap power FC for an r33 gtst (series 2, does it matter????). I don't need he hand controller and would prefer it to be 2nd hand for extra cheapness, anyone know where I can look and how much they should go for??? ps. I'm happy to look overseas and have it sent if it works out cheaper! thanks

One million dollaaaaarrrrsssss!!!...........................(places little finger to edge of mouth)

Was looking for a cheap 2nd hand PowerFC without the hand controller. This is for an r33 series 2 gtst. thanks.

try www.japanesemotorsport.com.au

easy way to to get the pickup out: just turn your car upside down and shake it until it falls out

bosch and most tuners who know, (strongly) recommend you don't use it in tank

a bit silly??? i think it's fair enough for him to remind them not to drive his car, so they know he'll be looking out for it, they should only have to move the car a few metres, max when moving it around the shop. 86km's isn't a joyride, it's over a 1hr drive.

maybe they legitimately had to road test your new rear bar???? seriously though, I would not let them get away with this, I would hate the idea that people have been thrashing the sh1t out of my car when I've left it for them to repair, if you haven't paid, then I wouldn't pay the full amount.

sydneykid thanks for the info, helpful as always, how does a voltage clamp work??

sydneykid, can I bleed some air from the factory boost gauge line (or disconnect it) so that it thinks the boost is lower than it actually is, and it won't pull out so much timing?

but wouldn't this cut the car out completely, not just give you a flat spot like I feel???

what sort of times??

do you mind me asking where you bought it? I've thought of getting rid of my sII r33 gtst for one. What sort of condition is it in? Is it noticeably quicker (compared to a 200rwkw r33 gtst)

is this still happening if it rains tonight as forecast??

what about quoting an increase in power for the performance mods and then a $ per kw value (performance mods only obviously)

I totally agree, but I also think it is a god idea to change the pipe as the corrugations in the rubber pipe around the bend, can't be too good for the flow. Also, the cast piece at the end of the pipe from the intercooler to turbo intake looks tiny in my opinion - it's gotta go.

the pipe itself can't be the restriction, as was said, you would need a restriction upstream, ie air filter to cause a vacuum in the pipe and collapse it. (start motivational talk) I think it's a great idea to replace the rubber pipe, it would be very easy to make up a steel pipe composing of a few bends and straight bits of pipe, joined with silicone joiners and hose clamps. All we would need is one person to make up a couple of sketches with seperate pipes with lengths and bends required and it would be a make it yourself kit for everyone to use. (end motivational talk)

shakes fist! I think I might just turn down the boost a few clicks before driving away on a cold night and see how it goes.

Thinking about it a bit more, not sure if the cold air causes a boost spike which in turn means more air volume flow - it's prob more like the denser cold air meaning there is more air volume and that causes the boost spike. Sort of the same thing, but you get what I mean. so what can I do to fix?

hey all, When accelerating I find that my car seems to go faster when only using, say 75% throttle, but this only really seems to happen on cold nights. During the day when it isn't too cold, I can use 100% throttle and car feels really fast, but on a cold night, use 100% and it seems to get a flat spot over 4000rpm. I think it may be due to a boost spike (bleed valve) which I have noticed on cold nights, but I thought a spike wouldn't really rob power cos it only happens on a cold night when there shouldn't be any knocking (cold air), will the ecu retard timing based on boost alone or on the knock sensor? I don't want to reduce my boost because it goes fine during a warmer day, and pls don't just say "go buy an EBC"! Has anyone experienced this? Can anyone shed some light?

nah, nothing wrong with it, just wanted to lower the "grab point"

thanks Rob. I actually already looked at that thread and a few others when I did a search, but they didn't answer my question.

thanks Rob. I actually already looked at that thread and a couple of others when I did a search, but they didn't answer my question specifically.

Hey guys, I wanted to make a small adjustement to my clutch "grab point". Clutch is standard and works fine, but grabs a bit high for me and wanted to make it grab closer to the ground or firewall. I understand that the clutch is hydraulic and self adjusting, but If you look at the clutch pedal you can see that it has some degree of adjustment. The top of the cllutch pedal has a rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder and has a rod with a locknut going to a pin sort of detail off the pedal. If I want my clutch to grab lower, the way I see it, all I have to do is adjust the rod a bit so that it is made shorter. Is this right? How do I do this? cos I can't rotate the rod coming out of the cylinder, do i have to rotate the end with the pin? To do this, the rod must be pushed to the side to let the end rotate, it this ok? Will it stuff the cylinder?? any help appreciated.

i think def go with something that says skylinesaustralia.com, as a sort of slim banner sticker and then incorporate "VIC" or "VIC Chapter" in there somewhere....and the 4 lights.