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Black33

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Everything posted by Black33

  1. not heaps because with those sorts of mods the std ecu runs rich as we all know and have experienced. I reckon around 140 - 150 rwkw depending on dyno. Your future mods sound good but I think when you get the power fc, thats when you can make the most of the mods u have.
  2. wouldn't the boost drop jhust be due to the stock turbo not being able to flow enough at high revs?
  3. I've thought of this in the past and think it would be pretty simple to do - if i could be stuffed
  4. yeah, I did this and still no good - might have to try using a lead to extend the module away from the plug and clip over this (ie get a reading after the module not b4 it)
  5. I tool readings from the loop and also from coil pack 1 and both were the same - 30 degrees advanced
  6. Hey all, I've searched the forums a bit and found that people are saying that it's hard to get an acccurate reading using a timing light on an r33 gtst! I checked my base timing by using my timing light I have and found that it was showing 6 white marks past the orange one. Does this really mean that my car's timing is advanced 30 degrees??? cos I've heard that timing is hard to check with a normal timing light on an r33 and that the readings that you get are double what it actually is??? That would mean my timing is 15 degrees which is correct. The car has been running for months and i've never had a problem on this timing setting so I have a feeling that it prob is actually 15 degrees. To be safe for the time being, my tuner retarded it, but that has robbed me of precious power and I think that the readings we are getting are wrong. Can someone please help and shed some light on this!!!! How can I get an accurate reading of my base timing???? I'm happy to take it somewhere and pay for them to check it if I have to!! I need urgent help. thanks
  7. Hey all, I tried to check my base timing by using a timing light I have and found that it was showing 6 white marks past the orange one. Does this really mean that my car's timing is advanced 30 degrees??? cos I've heard that timing is hard to check with a normal timing light on an r33 and that the readings that you get are double what it actually is??? That would mean my timing is 15 degrees which is correct. Can someone please help and shed some light on this!!!! thanks
  8. you realise that an R1 does 10 sec 1/4's, stock! It would take an animal of a car to keep up with one of these bikes, not worth comparing in my opinion.
  9. yeah man, def advanced alloy wheels as mentioned - they did a great job for me at a great price
  10. but wait............there's more
  11. if u had a prob with the turbo, it's not like a bell sound - like the others said - it is more like a sqeal which increases with revs. Can you hear the sound when driving?
  12. just turn your climate control off "Auto" and it wont change vent positions on its own to suit the wanted temp - this is the source of the noise
  13. some people bend them - I made up 2 small brackets that bring the plates out so that they are flush with the bar, looks really good
  14. I wonder how long the nissan factory consider "long" and "short" for a turbo timer???
  15. - remove and clean out thoroughly with some sort of degreaser - Cut a hole in the perforated plastic panel behind it (removing it entirely makes the front bar a little less stable) - make up a plastic surround to channel (force) all of the air through the core. - definitely don't mount it at the front, waste of time and you'd look like an idiot , also it will actually get better airflow in the stock pposition where air can flow "through it" and out the back - as mentioned, a good upgrade (& cheap) is an r34 gtt intercooler.
  16. thanks for the info guys, so if i tune my car to around 190 rwkw's and the A/F ratio's are looking ok and the pump is supplying enough fuel with enough pressure - then I assume all should be ok!!
  17. if i'm gonna get a pump i'll get a gtr one, but wanted to know if it's dodgy to push my stock pump a bit further
  18. yeah I know that - but I wanted to know if it is bad to push a pump to its limits, does this mean it is more likely to fail. example: say an r33 gtst fuel pump has a power limit of 200rwkw before it starts leaning out. I tune my car to 195rwkw meaning that at peak power the pump is running at 97.5% of its capacity. Is this bad? Does this mean it will fail sooner or is it not really a problem seeing as how in reality the pump will only be flowing at this rate very infrequently (not for track use)????
  19. Hey all. when dynoing a car - is it easy to tell if the fuel pump is getting close to reaching its limit? How would this be done, can a pressure gauge be hooked up to the fuel system to see if the correct pressure is still being supplied?? Will tuning a car using a pump at the top end of it's flow rate mean it is more likely to fail? ie. tuning an r33 gtst stock pump to 190rwkw, if it can supply enough fuel on the dyno, then is this ok or does it mean that because this is getting to it's power limit, it will die sooner? I would think that this isn't the case seeing as how if your pump is able to supply enough fuel at your peak power, it doesn't really spend much time flowing at that rate in street driving, only for WOT blasts every now and then. What do u all think??
  20. .....to buy a 2nd hand fuel pump (ie. gtr pump)??? I know most will say don't do it, but heaps of people do buy them second hand and use them, has anyone actually had failures due to a 2nd hand pump?
  21. whose dyno was this on.............................unichips?? (only stirring)
  22. exactly what I was thinking, so if we are to block this hole to allow for better response and boost coming on earlier - what boost pressure do you think the BOV spring alone can hold (ie with no pressure on the backside due to the leak helping to keep the valve shut)?????
  23. no stuffing around at all to fit the r34 stock cooler, striaght fit. I should know - I have one
  24. In my opinion: - don't go for 2 coolers with 1 in front of the other as you wont get enough airflow through the two - too thick! - don't go for a std cooler front mounted - you actually get more airflow in the std cooler position as air can flow through it and out the back (through perforated plastic guard in wheel arch) - why not go for something like a stock r34 gtt intercooler. will handle 12psi in my opinion and is cheap for around $150 (minus the $80 or so you get from selling yuors, so even cheaper!) the stock r34 cooler is arond 45% bigger then the r33 std one, and this means it'll flows significantly better for the cost! - you could also look at getting a supra cooler which is 100mm thick from memory and might fit in the std position, but may need a bit of stuffing around to make it fit and these are hard to find!
  25. i have a series 2 and it has the rear strut brace - i thought it was standardon sII? oh yeah, and mine says skyline on a red sticker!
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