The BOP

Hey guy's im intrested in slapin in a 6 speed box out of the 34 into a 33, im doin a engine upgrade and am just tryin to get some idea's on which direction i should head in. I'm going for some good hp bout 500+ at the wheels will it handle this or should i go to a dog box? Any help would be great thanks guys.

AAAAAAGGGHHHHHH HA HA that is the funniest shit I've seen in a looong time, yeah mate were fully sick the cop won't catch us were fully fast and furious in our pimped out excels yeah mate!!!!

true the seat belts are a grey area they say to use original points thats a bit hard as the seat belt clicky thing is part of the seat (R33 anyway) I spoke to them about that as im keen to put a cage in my car and what i was told it would br a quick check and thats about it i'm making my rail connect to the original seat fixing. With the rear seat your right if you put a full cage in it will need to be classed as a two seater as the bar work hinders the passenger from getting out quickly hopfully i'll be starting it soon i'll post up any problems i come aross in the fab section

You can do it but there is only one type of harness thats legal it has the same type of buckle as a standerd car (push button) I would advise you to go to vicroads.com to check, and you can leave your back seats in so long as your harness does not interfere with the rear passenger (check this it's from memory) if you got though the rules and regs you'll find out we can get away with more than you think such as a roll cage doesnt need engineering for vicroads to pass it, just follow the guide lines they state and it all nice and legal but cams will need engineering just a couple of thoughts good luck

All the machines are supplied by sponsors but if we change sponsors at the end of the year and still have them you might be in with a chance were strictly a racing team no sales unless you want to buy a car or select parts! All consumables are supplied by the sponsors too unless there a emergancy and we run out then we get it from however has some, i'll have a look round for Carroll Smith when work slows down a bit so prob around xmas! ha ha thanks again for the books if your ever down Melbourne give me a call i'll show you some of the stuff we make cheers

Yeah that was me nice car man very clean

+ 1 for the acetone I clean all surfaces and filler rods with the stainless rule of thumb is use at least the same or higher grade stainless filler, and with all stainless work (and ali) always use inox grinding and sanding disc's never use anything that has ground mild steel touch your work to prevent contamination and directly connect the earth to the job as close to the weld area as poss this will stop arcing and get better current flow. Try to put a sheet of the same materialon your bench when working also to prevent contamination. Almost all the work I do is either CrMo, SS (309-316-321) and ali I try to use the closest filler I can get my hand on for the ali work I use 5% mag, stainless the same grade as material and CrMo filler wire for the moly (you can use mild steel but if you do use low hydrogin mig wire's not to bad) just remember the weld is only going to be as good as your prep work I hand file all joints and debur and clean everything before I tack up and then I will clean it again just before welding it out. Back to the ali when grinding sanding or whatever use bee's wax as a lube and when your drilling use kero or WD40 ( I prefere kero myself) and if your going to polish the job after pre polish all of the ends were your going to weld this way you can leave your welds looking lnice and not half sanded of after polishing (if you like to leave your welds exposed I think it looks trick myself) you would do this for stainless also.

Saw a sweet black 33 at muzz buzz near stud rd then he stalked me!! up Sth Gippy freeway

Hey mate sorry I can't take photo's at work against team policy, but with all the ends of the pipes you can get away with just useing tape you could go that extra step and have machined bunges made but you only need that when your welding right near the end of the pipe and yeah you will have wear the extra cost of a reg. Also put a small hole (in the end cap or tape) in the opposite end of the tube your welding so the gas flows and doesnt put to much pressure against your weld trust me it will blow the weld out if trust me it happens. My personal machine is a kempi ac/dc 200 amp with foot control and pulse function with standerd reg and flow meter, my work machines are lincon a whole bunch of them

Hey mate I'm keen always more you can learn pm me and I'll give you the address (both books if poss) cheers

And Im sure they woulnt be intrested in paying extra for inconel or titanium as well as the extra cost of welding in a atmosphere of inert gas it also depends on the application (race or street) I know we cant use either of the alloys in our cat of racing, but when you look at the cost of a full race spec exhaust (around $16,000 is what it cost for us) that small amount of extra gas used for purgeing is neither here or there.

All exhaust I make are purged, I use 0.8 filler and sometimes go for a helium/argon (20%) mix for better pen on low amp's. Trust me for racing applications it's needed you get alot of vibrations and extra stress on the exhaust. I'm just a bit more fussy about how I go about my work, always take the hard way and make it bullet proof that's what I'll be doing to my exhaust down the track but hey that's just me

HORSE SHIT If you want a half ass job don't purge, but if you wan't a GOOD job purge it the extra gas is f*#k all about 5l per min is all that's needed. And to say a fused weld is as stong as one that has full penetration is a load of shit you can go on the way you wan't but I will alway's purge any stainless tube/pipe I weld nuff said

Hey mate were are you located? I might have a few machinings laying around let me know if your in Melb

It's getting there just did brakes and suspension, thinking of putting in a cage too I'll prob be taking the car off the road soon and doing full exhaust and full intake system. After that it's respray time if I can stop myself going to nuts on custom bits!

Hey all I've got a contact for fuel if you need any for track day's top quality at a fair price. One of the up sides to working in my field!

Thanks mate I'll give him a call soon I'm thinking bolt in side intrusion bar to get past the vicroad bastards, might try and get cam approved? Don't know if this can be done but I'll give it a red hot go! thanks again

I'm luvin them can't believe I liked my other rims now there f"in sweet if you need those rims still let me know they are still sitting at work collecting dust

Thanks mate do you have David Browns number or a way to contact him so I can work out the legal side of it, and yes I will be building the cage myself I've done a fair few race cars so no problems on hat side of things! thanks again

Use a die grinder or dremel with a small cutting disc works a treat. If you rough cut it first then go over with a sanding barrel it will come out fine, I've done countless times and never a issue once. Just use high rpm's when cutting and all will work out good luck mate.

FARK NOW THE LADS AT WORK THINK IM GAY FARKIN GINGER BASTARD!!!!! Damn funny but

I've got some 17's pm sent

Hey guy's I'm thinking about putting a rollcage in my car, I'm looking for a good engineer to write off my cage does anyone know a good one in melbourne, outer east would suit me better let me know cheers

GIVE THEM TO ME!!! I'm down for the group buy 33 gtst please

Can you please though it back on the demo car for a picture please and about how high do those vents stick up? And the bonnet pins you refered to are they flush mounted, do they have extra locks the ones I've seen are flush and have locks in each bonnet pin oh how much for the bonnet pins too? Just noticed your in melbourne any chance I could pop round and check it out for myself?