bahanthich

hey, no it hasnt had timing belt changed yet. Im not sure on brands for exhaust/front mount. its lowered on springs not coilovers. yes you can have a look, call me on 0405017521

1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTST Turbo Series 2 silver, manual, 101,000 kms, long rego. RB25DET. -Gtr spoiler, -18 inch wheels, -front 18x9 and rears 18x10 /265 with good tread. -excedy ceramic clutch, -full exhaust from turbo back, -front mount intercooler kit, -k&n air filter, -boost controller (currently set at 10psi), -walboro high-flow fuel pump, -CD Player, 5 inch touchscreen navigation system (from japan) -and boost gauge. -lowered. Body is in excellent condition, and interior is also very good condition. Car has been taken care of mechanically and serviced regularly and has no mechanical problems, (no misfire etc) goes pretty quick. Call 0405017521 more details, inspections welcome during the week after 6pm at St Leonards, Sydney or during the day saturdays/sundays. **$10,200 (Not negotiable = no offers.)**

yeah you would think a place that does pink slips would know this stuff.

ah ok, thats good to hear. just checked and found the link to do the mod. Thanks

I just went to get my car a pink slip, and they said i need to fix my headlights. When i turn headlights on, i get the two lights working normally, but when i put on high beems, they come on, but the normal headlights turn off. anyone know if this is a known problem? or where to look to fix it? Im going to try fix it on the weekend, but if anyone has any suggestions that could help, it would be appreciated. I was going to check the wiring around the headlights.

ill sell the spacers for $150 for anyone interested

everyone asking about the spacers, i really want to sell them after ive sold the wheels, but pm me a price your willing to pay and i will think about it.

Reduced to $350 including spacers

gts4wd - i jush weighted them on scales, theyre about 17-18kg each. (rim with tyre)

reduced to $400

reduced to $450

off a r33 skyline, im not sure how compatible they are with other nissans but they have a multi-stud pattern, so i would assume they would fit most nissans but i could be wrong. Details off the rims Rears : 17x9s PCD 114.3, OF +38, 5H SL with 255x40 tyres (nearly bald, will need to be replaced). Fronts: 17x8s PCD 114.3, OF +38, 5H SL with 235x45 tyres (probably 60% tread, but look at the pictures to see yourself, i would imagine they will need to be replaced after a while). I have taken pictures from a few angles, theres not much noticeable gutter rash on the rims and they are in pretty good condition, i cleaned them quickly with water, but they will come up nice and shiny with when polished etc. I also have a set of 4 spacer plates which i will include in the price or sell separately if someone wants them. I want $500 for them. They can be picked up from near north sydney. Send me a pm or call me on 0405017521 if your interested.

the thing i dont understand is how it does it more often when im on a hill/incline and just start accelerating, i though if its the coils, this wouldnt be relevant

i have a r33 series 2 manual, it seems to hesitate a bit occasionally when i accelerate (normally, not foot to floor) from a traffic light etc, proably 8/10 times when im doing a start from slight to steep hill. when i put my foot down (clutch out around 1krpm), it seems to stutter,revs drop to about 500rpm, but the boost keeps building up and the car doesnt move for about 3 or 4 seconds. looking at the boost gauge, the needle increases violently (increasing not smoothly, eg instead of going from 0-1-2-3-4-5psi, its goes like 0-1-.5-1.2.5-2-3-2.5-3.5psi etc ) it gets to about 5psi, then suddendly the car picks up revs and takes off. Could this be a coil pack problem? as im getting misfire around 4500rpm also. I have changed spark plugs (bcp6res 0.8mm) and put in walboro fuel pump. Car has intercooler/full exhaust/air filter and boost is set to about 8psi. I though of regapping the plugs to .6 or .7, and putting epoxy on the coils, but is this a normal problem with faulty coils? (the starting hesitation issue), i though its a bit wierd because how it seems to happen more often when im on a hill then straight road. It also happens regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. I plan on taking it to a mechanic if its not the coils/spark plugs, but if anyone has any ideas before i do so, that would be appreciated

is software connected to the consult cable able to get a correct reading on timing? I assume it would, as the ecu needs to know what timing is running to adjust variables accordingly. is this as reliable as using a timing light?

does this sound normal? Ive connected a laptop to consult port and using a free program for logging. When the car is cold, the timing fluctuates around 0-5, but once its warmed up and idling on 700-800rpm, it sits at 0. Then at 2krpm goes to 25, 3krpm 35, 4krpm and + to 42. Not going higher then 42. Is this too high? I have a timing gun somewhere i can use on the weekend to verify (never used it before). Other values im getting MAF idle at 1.06 volts, 2krpm 1.49v, 3krpm 1.88v, 4krpm 2.18v coolant is 86c. This is free reving the car, not under load.

what im interested to know, is just say you can make a switch that turns off three of the injectors, and use this switch when you dont need power (ie driving in traffic) im pretty sure you can turn off injectors using a laptop connected to consult port, but if you do this, is it safe for the engine, and would it screw up the fuel mixtures etc? i would have though if half the injectors are available, half the fuel is being delivered, and its in proportion so it should still run ok but with much less power? or is it more complicated then that? some information on the net says the engines that have this done (using the physical system on the valves of the cylinders), get up to 20% more fuel economy.

its probably a stupid question, more out of curiousity then wanting to actually do it, but is it possible to shutdown 2 or 3 cylinders while driving for fuel economy? ie turn off some of the injectors temporarily or another way? im sure its not that simple and theres probably some bad effects on the engine/fuel system which is why no one does it, but if someone could explain why its not possible i would be interested to know. i was thinking of a 8 cylinder engine i read about a while ago that runs on half its cylinders to save fuel economy until you floor it, and then it runs on all the cylinders. theres a bit of information on the internet about it 'firing on half-cylinders' or 'cylinder deactivation' but im interested if its possible to implement a similar thing on standard cars.

whats the correct fuel pressure, and does the car have to be under load to show correct values? or can you test with bonnet up at idle/reving the engine?

when i bought my car the guy told me he put a vl turbo fuel pressure regulator on the car. Is there any benefit to this then the stock r33 one? (my car is r33 series 2 gtst). does this increase the flow to injectors, and use more fuel? or is just a cheap fix to faulty r33 fuel pressure regulator?

how much for a second remap? eg get a first remap, then bigger turbo/injectors/afm upgrade, and need a second remap but already have the daughterboard installed?

how much are they worth?

i couldnt find anything after searching for this, has anyone tried use the xanti (forget the exact name) touch screens that come in skylines for gps from japan with a car computer? I was going to take it out on the weekend and have a look and see if its possible, but if anyone else has looked at it before, it may save me some time.

in my old s15 a part of the turbo-dumppipe gasket was deteriorating, and a piece got jammed in the turbo exhaust wheel, was giving same as above, no boost car reved like a n/a car. but it was obvious the gasket was gone from the noise it made. when i replaced the gasket, and removed the gasket piece from the turbo wheel everything back to normal with full boost etc. probably should take the turbo off anyway and have a look

if fuel cut on r33s is anyting like fuel cuts on s13 silvias (i would presume its the same, but i could be wrong), it sounds like a different problem. fuel cut on silvias is almost like violent cutout, its feels different to hessitations/splurting when excelerating.