nut

'• No rear engine 6 Cylinder or above vehicles allowed.' only exist in Clubsprint class.

did u read the rules? u can drive GT3 RSR or Ferraris in both pro class and open class

Using street tyres make the event 'friendly' and 'close' to everyone, it encourages street cars to race in the event, in the end a WIN-WIN for both car enthusiast and the industry. Sorry I should reply it in one post...

would you like to try the evo? cheaper, lighter, nice awd system and it has 4 doors I just found evos are quite popular here in WTAC

Tube frame chassis extensions are allowed, but according to the rules it seems impossible to use FULL tube frame in Pro class. Tube frame chassis extensions are NOT permitted in open class and clubsprint. So it is not pointless IMHO.. Category 3 – Pro Class Rules Chassis • OEM strut towers must be retained. • OEM firewall must be retained. Modifications to the firewall are allowed for roll cage, engine fitment, transmission fitment and wiring. All holes must be sealed. If the firewall is provisioned for to allow clearance for a different engine or allow gearbox/drive train fitment, all material must be replaced with the same thickness sheet metal as the factory material. • The rear most part of the engine block may be no more than 2 inches rearward of the most forward point of the firewall, If the vehicle is rear engine, the front most part of the engine block may be no more than 2 inches forward of the most rear point of the firewall. • Chassis rails may be modified for fitment issues, all chassis rail modifications must be submitted to the promoter for approval.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RuGajWd_ys Hi guys, It's a R33 GTS25T. When it is cold, it idles fine, after 4mins warm up, problem appears(in the video). Sometimes, after 10mins driving, it just getting worse. When i stop at traffic light, rev could drop to 400-500 and start fluctuation between 400-700rpm, and the car shudders. I have to keep the rev at around 1000rpm to prevent stalling, but I can still feel it shudders a bit. The headlights go dim when rev drops, voltage also drops a bit. I checked the alternator belt, it seems still tight. Sometimes the voltage is not stable, changes between 13.9-14.2. It drives fine, i mean, if i keep the rev higher than 2000, hard to feel any problem. It seems only happens when car is standstill after warmed up. AFM is good, AAC valve has been cleaned. spark plugs are new. maybe the O2 sensor? But O2 sensor problem seems worse than this one... maybe the alternator itself?