ClutchBurndout-:(

Volks se37 are nothing like mine :S i have but cant find them... cheers!

wtf are you using the melbourne server to conduct the speed test?

should have made the fuel station a multiple vote one cos i use both bp and shell

good luck finding them in aus to lol

i think ive seen it done before, but its a big job

be careful, its illegal to cut holes in your bonnet isnt it?

you can get some pretty large sheets off ebay i think, might not need a join, correct me if im wrong

thats a massive difference, i always wondered if its better to use the usb or ethernet in the modems.

yea i know right, but its very subtle, it dosent look like tis going to crack open, but then again im no radiator expert. im not sure if its the cap, could be though, how do i test it?

hey all, i discovered the other day that i have some weeping coolant on top my my radiator, its only a tiny bit along the top, but always looks fresh, so im assuming the top of the radiator is leaking, my coolant levels dont seem to drop, so im wondering if this is something i should fix asap? or just let it leak ever so slightly untill the radiator drops out...

ok will give it a go what do you mean by flame front spread?

instead of making a new thread what gap should i use for 8-10 psi boost, rb25det with splitfire coilpacks, zorst and fmic?? 1.1 or 0.8? rb25det

lose to above sick of seeing drifteks and te37s

= +1 for smaller rachet

if you have damper adjustable springs then why not play with them? should reduce some body roll, but like i said earlier, you can have your cake and eat it to, thankfuly the buety of adjusting dampers on your suspension is you can change it back after your "spirited cornering session"

lol $4k on suspension if you want just a bit stiffer, ask a suspension join for some stiffer springs, should be fine. other than that, i think if you lower non-damper adjustable coils they stiffen up as the shock gets less room to move? im not 100% sure on this, how low is your car?

not really... im pretty basic, i like the shape of mine, i dont really care for fancy wheels, i like basic, race style wheels. i love the style of tapering out from the center to the outer rim, like mine, i dont know any others in a basic 5 spoke wheel style, that being said i dont really spend a lot of time pondering about wheels everyone's different. unfortunately we live in a car community that thinks wheels are everything, exhibit A, commodores. im happy with my wheels, and now ill focus on the rest of the car.

yea not sure about the handbrake one, could be completely normal i dunno yea take it to a suspension place, but good luck finding a joint that wont say, "you need everything, $4k"

cheaper socket = thicker walled, invest in a nice socket set /thread

i wouldnt bother with your rear sway bar, sway bars main purpose is to help with over steer and under steer rather than body roll. invest in stiffer coils if your keen on track work, you wont look back, but say goodbye to comfy daily driving correct me if im wrong but you would treat a gtr the same as a fwd car. also remember that, the downfall of stiffer coils is they become less grippier in the wet, because to keep good traction in the wet the suspension needs to allow the tire to monouver the bumps on the road to get maximum grip. so all in all, you cant have your cake and eat it to. have you thought about strut braces?

it dosent matter what your doing with it, you would compensate for the worst case scenario, because you can have the thickest sway bars on front AND back and it wont affect your every day driving, because sway bars only come into use on cornering, it wont give you a stiffer ride. in most cases a thicker sway bar means stiffer, so by upgrading a sway bar it just means putting a thicker one in (correct me if im wrong) i believe with the bc coilovers you can ask for different spring rates??? maybe your ones just has a softer spring rate, i dont see why you cant go to a suspension joint and ask for stiffer springs to suit your coils. everyone talks about coils to solve body roll because to an extent a sway bar can help, but the term "more=better" dosent work in this situation, more (stiffer sway bars) will help till you find traction issues, with coils, they work individually and when cornering, one side of coils wont raise the other side, therefor not giving you traction issues. i have tiens in my car and they are super stiff, and i have little body roll.

to answer mads question you should really only upgrade the front sway bar because sway bars will lift the inside wheels or the "unloaded side" on a corner, and as we all know, the back of the car is the end that always loses traction first, so upgrading the rear sway bar will only make this worse. thats for rwd cars. for fwd cars the front wheels are doing all the work that the rear wheels on a rwd car do, so its best to keep the front wheels down buy using the rear of the cars suspension to keep the car flat.

about?

i have only read the first page this is normal, mine reads the same, sometimes double, guages are always faulty when warm mine sits in the middle of the first section like ur image, then when running goes up, but hey maybe my oil pressure is to low lol