ClutchBurndout-:(

darn, i dont think mine is dead center, infact its off a bit, its a stock ecu so i can only do it via a timing light, and the ecu should learn correct?

and your car ran fine with the different afm?

the hicas is at the rear, not in the engine bay.

hey all, i was wondering, im getting a S2 afm off a friend and my loom is to fit a S1 plug/afm, is there any harm in modifying the loom to fit the 3 pin S2 plug/afm? i know that you join both the ground wires to suit, but is it detrimental at all to the running of the motor/turbo? are each model afm to suit that particular model engine? or are the both exactly the same except the pin outs? cheers

if it is however twisted but you get the cat on, it will put a lot of pressure on the dump pipe-turbo studs and even the manifold studs to the block

i dont want to advance it, i want to put it to stock (if its not timed right, i need to check) is there indications on the unit that says 15 degrees etc?

cheers

lol @ sex spec go for jdm spec...

hey all, been reading up about cas timing and what effects it has if its go the wrong settings, now, i know sfa about CAS's, do you need the car to be professionally tuned when working with the CAS? how do you know what setting it should have? i hear a lot of people adjust them themselves but i realy have no clue about them, i only just learnt that CAS stands for cam/crank angle sensor lol can anyone shed some light on adjusting it if it is the cause of overfueling/misfiring at higher rpm? and what to set it to? my car is stock apart from the exhaust, fmic, and im running 8-9psi, so it needs to be set to standard or something to support the basic mods i have there. cheers guys

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTT.htm could be incorrect though

r34 actuator spring is 10psi id rather get an r34 spring than a r32 spring, to much r&r on 12 psi

garret all the way

im with nismoid, check the plugs, could be hella dirty from the track day also, check for boost leaks on ur piping, sure sounds like a boost leak

hey guys, im desperately seeking a R33 series 1 AFM with the plug and a small amount of wireing attached so i can attached to the loom. pm me or 0432677253 - matt (sms) cheers

ive done the intercooler, where can i get a new afm plug? is it a standard plug that i can get from bursons or something? where do the grounding wires in the afm loom go to? do they T off to the car body or something?

minor update tonight, i put the old intercooler piping back on, with the proper wastegate line, and re hooked the proper bov line, so all is as it used to be before the car was buggering up. the car ran as normal and jerked a tiny bit but wasnt as bad, didnt stall, this was 20 mins after driving, the revs started to drop at this point and i kept violently pushing the accelorator to get the revvs back up and continued driving, this was the only time in the 30 mins i was driving that it acted up. also, i was playing around with my dodgy afm wireing and plugs, and when i pushed down hard on the plug the car stalled, i tested this 3 times and everytime the car stalled apon pushing down on the afm plug and once when i was fiddling with the wires, so i think something iffy is happening there. also, was bossting really dirty, major flat spot and minor poping, but not as bad as last time, this was happening above 4500 and eaver increasing as the revs rose. i havnt yet reset the ecu the whole time, should i do this? will this fix anything? or am i hoping for the impossible?

i dare say he got it from justjap, so more of a trouble sending it back than to just get a zorst joint to fix it, wont be expencive. are you 100% sure that the stock zorst wasnt twisted which would result in the flanges not lining up? and u sure its not back the front?

how far off is the flanges? it looks ok to me. can you explain further whats wrong?

ah ok, ill shut my big mouth

seal it up, dont see any harm...

did the seal fix your problem? to me i dont think it would, it wont cause overfueling, it will just give you a boost leak

just thought id mention it theres a shittonne of air blasting out that hole, goto make sure that nothing is going to obstruct the air from coming out, and your cable tie looks like its right in the way. but, im not going to question you

by sealing do you mean, sealing all the gaps around your cold air box with silicon or watever? i had a similar setup on my old car, same front bar and everything, i didnt seal my box. you wont find much of a difference in just sealing the box up, sure it will make the air a little bit colder, but meh. the ecu wont change be prepared to clean your pod alot more often, as the cold air induction pipe brings in all the dirt off the road, i was amaized how dirty mine got after about 6 months of using the pipe.

are you sure you havent blocked the bleed valve at the back of the controller with all those cable ties?

couldnt you just put in a boost controller?