ClutchBurndout-:(

ok, so im gonna take the fuses out, because i dont need flashy lights on my car when the alarm is engaged etc, will this affect normal indication and hazard operation? where can i find these fuses? you said inline but i dont know what that means haha cheers for the help!

awell ive ordered a turbotech boost tap so ill just use that instead me thinks! also, i noticed some boost creep today, at around 4500 ish it started to creep up, and its hosed direct to the actuator, would this indicate a leak in my system somewhere? or a wastegate flap problem? (i have a 3inch bellmouth dump system) ta

my guage goes off the plenum, should i tee it into just after the turbo? ok, the big question, if my spring really is 5psi, will a controller be able to change it to 7psi constant? or does the 5psi spring limit it to 5psi?

dont say that!

my car is manual and its 5psi, hosed to the actuator

if im not mistaken, the taps are quite unreliable, ive used them in the past and they cause boost creep issues...

as the title says, after an electronic boost controller, dont need anything special, just something to do the job! pm me or sms me 0432677253 matt

at least once a drive, to work for example, the hazards flicker on and off for 2 seconds then stop, randomly as hell, i would just be cruising and they go off, i think it may have something to do with my alarm, as when i open the door the hazards seem to flicker to indicate the door is still open or its tripping the alarm i have no idea which. i know its hard to say whats causing this issue but anyone have any ideas at all? or should i just take it straight to an auto electrician? cheers

out of curiosity, how much does the spare wheel weigh anyway? might ditch mine to

i doubt cops would pin u for it, ive never had a cop ask me about my spare... i had none in my previous r33 and i drove that for 2 years with no issues...

hey all, i got a set of old tiens that are only height adjustable, i was wondering, would lowering the coils result in stiffer ride? or softening it? im looking at lowering the car a little bit but i dont know if i want to if its going to make the rider stiffer! anyone got an idea? also, anyone know what a suspension joint would charge to lower the coils? ta

i dont really want to run 10psi, im not into the whole "must go faster" thing anymore, just would like the standard boost! 10psi = screwy mixtures etc since i just have the standard ecu

alright so im gonna have to hook it back up and then, do the DIY for high boost all the time correct?

yea standard, i thought the actuator is 10 psi? do i have to hook the solonoid back up to get 7-8psi?

hi guys, first things first, i have a psi guage, actualy in psi, and its the second one ive tried, and they both say psi. now my solonoid is out of the question, nothing runs to it at all nor is it plugged in, and i have the hose running straight to the actuator, im only getting 5 psi, i thought it might have been a leak in the system, but its a solid 5psi and dosent budge up or down when full throttling, if there was a leak the boost would drop slowly? or something anyway, any ideas? cheers

yea they are designed well, they are easy enough to get off if you know what to do once you have plastic primer down you can use whatever paint you want...

6s would be optimal 1.0 or 1.1 is fine, to small a gap wont have a strong enough spark, but if its to big the spark can be blown out, thats why 1.1 is the most optimal i think have you tried running an injector cleaner though?

gear 300 is more expensive than shockproof... i filled my box for 120 bucks for motul gear 300

burgundy, the body looks red for some reason just acrylic and plastic primer, with a nice wet clear coat

i sprayed my dash a week or so ago, just got a chance to take a pic of it! the colour is "tungsten" what do you guys think?

i haaaaaaaaate ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust they should made car shells out of stainless steel

If i am incorrect in any of the below, please correct me. I was speaking to a mechanic not long ago regarding my gearbox and its rare crunching habits it has, i was asking him about additives to help with the crunching, i suggested the commonly used Nulon teflon additive that you stick in your box to help lube up everything so it slips in easier thus reducing the crunching, but, this isnt the case with dying syncro's, syncro's are what cause the crunching, because the syncro's are worn down/expanded so much that it cant slow down the gear set for the next gear to engage safely (without crunching). Now lets look at what the Nulon teflon additive does exactly, its a lube that helps with friction and lowers it, thus being great for gearboxes and its life, a very good additive to use with a gearbox in good nick, NOT with worn syncro's, look at a syncro, and how they work, they use friction to slow down the gear set correct? and what will Nulon teflon do to the syncro? lube it up and reduce friction correct? thus making it harder for the syncro to slow down the gear set, which can ultimately make the crunching worse (not usually by a lot, but still...) What to do instead ive been a big fan of motul oil for gearboxes over the years, and more specifically, "gear 300" (im pretty sure thats what its called) it aint cheap, if your filling your whole gearbox it will cost around $120. From my understanding this is good old fashion good quality shit, with no additives etc, ive always used it, it has stopped 5th gear crunches in my old car, and it has helped alot with 3rd, 4th and 5th gear crunches along with making the gearbox a lot smoother in my current car. Previously in the current car i have (R33gtst) was redline shockproof, which so many here believe is a god send, and what is redline shockproof's special ingredient? thats right, teflon, the same stuff as the Nulon additive, and perhaps it is for newer gearboxes, but i had it in my box and it wasnt doing it very good (well, just not as good as motul) So, if your having issues with crunching (not reverse crunches, as this is most likely a clutch issue) and the shockproof oil hasnt helped, then fork out the extra money for some motul oil if you dont want to pay for a reco just yet. Like i said at the start, i may be wrong with some of the above terminology or mechanics etc, but in a nut shell its what i have done with my gearboxes, and what a decent mechanic has told me.

got an autometer NV boost guage here, its a 52mm version, will post at buyers request and cost $40 cheers

For Sale? Or Wanted?* FS Price/Amount 1900 State VIC Short Description for title? Group A kitted VL Currently Registered? Yes Transmission? AUTO REGO/VIN Number? WOF966 Contact Info Other than this Forum? 0432677253 Description Im selling my 87 VL Commodore due to upgrading to a skyline, this is a very smooth running car fitted with a group A kit , has low kms (184,000) mechanically great! , all the clutches are great!, transmission in great nick, engine runs very smooth. Engine is the turbo model with the oil and water feed holes! fitted with extractors and 2.5 inch exhaust (sounds good for a vl) cold air box with k&n pod filter . lowered nicely with pedders springs and shocks. u pgraded discs and pads on the front. has a rw momo padded steering wheel also. kenwood/pioneer sound system with 6x9s on the back and 4s in the dash, (no holes cut out of the doors), also comes with remote central locking yet to be fitted. Car also has NO rust anywere. Last owner lived in Sheparton and had the car for years, so it has alot of country miles on the dial. Car comes with rego but no rwc, i had the car rw'ied not long ago and its fine (before you say "yea yea bulls**t" i have the receipt to proove it), it has a brand new windscreen since thats the only thing they changed (have receipts from the rw and receipts for windscreen) rego is untill sep 2010 . Only bad side is it needs a respray on the roof bonnet and boot as the sun has attacked it, after a quick spray you will have a very neat car. Has 16 inch holden rims, not sure from what model. with rw rubber. also have the group A bonnet scoop and spoiler if the buyer wishes to have it. If you want anymore pics please pm me etc Looking to get rid of this asap so i can upgrade, buyer can take the car with the rego and no rw, but rego will be canceled 2 weeks after sale if the buyer has not transferred the car. Please contact me any time on 0432677253 - Matt if your phone shy your welcome to email me - [email protected] or add me to msn with the same email. Located in Narre Warren S.E Victoria Cheers P.S, the windscreen got a lovely chip from a stone the other day, so that dosent seem so new anymore

got a stock cat in perfict nik, got the studs in it still, good for epa or watever 30 bucks pickup matt