Jaredo

The steering angle sensor is mounted to the surrounding housing that the indicator stalk in on - 4 screws. The harness is on the bottom left if your looking at the wheel. The horn also plugs into the front of it. There's two little screws at the bottom facing you that lets you remove the sensor circuitry . If you pop the bottom cover off you can get to the circuit board and you can then pop the board out.

Are the R33 GTST door seals for both left and right? are they the ones on the chassis that the glass seals against? Whats the condition of the HICAS ECU? Chasing a working one to replace my dieing one? Thanks.

Steering Position sensor is the culprit. I found a R34 Super Hicas manual that lists the pinouts of the HICAS ECU and acceptable voltages. Tested everything on the list and kept getting weird readings from pins 22 and 21 (Steering position signal 1 and 2 respective). In the neutral position pin 21 puts out 5V - this is the netural position signal from the steering position signal. It puts out 0V if moved away from neutral Pushing the steering wheel left or right resulted in varied voltages from 0v to 5v and this is the allowable range. Now I came across a scenario where the steering was neutral and both pins 22 and 21 where at 1.46v, and did not change. I started the car and low and behold HICAS light was on. I mucked around for abit and got 5V on neutral and 0 off neutral and pin 22 showing voltage swings. I started the car and HICAS light was out - and full power steering. This could explain why I can't get into Diag mode (or not as I'm running a PFC). But It must be ok while driving and doesn't throw a error - Only when powering down and up again in quick succession does it root up. This will also explain why others can't get into Diagnostic mode because neutral position doesn't exist or it doesn't see the turning left to right. Next thing is where to obtain a steering position sensor lol, yes I could lock it but I would like to retain a working HICAS system.

Seems to be time related and to do with the HICAS ECU, or inheriantly voltage drop over repetative engine cranking, but doesn't explain why I can drive for 5mins and reproduce it. I confirmed the HICAS light on over 3 starts with less than 10 seconds with the ignition in "OFF". I tested switching off, unplugging - replugging the HICAS ECU and starting the engine - 17seconds and the light is out and everything normal. I've never been able to reproduce more than once Confirming I have the light on over 3 short starts - switch off the engine and wait 20-30seconds. Restarted and everything is normal. This has worked about 5 times. I've seen a similar issue with old Computer power supplies where if there's a brownout and power comes back the PC won't start unless you switch off the power supply for 1-2mins.

Hey Stich, Having the same issues, You start the car and its fine for god knows how many K's you drive (did about 20km), but as soon as you stop it and then attempt to start again <2-3mins the HICAS warning light comes on and the system is completely out heavy steering ect. If I leave it for 5mins then start again its fine. I've been able to reproduce it easily but having a aftermarket ECU is making it hard to diagnose. Pulled the HICAS ECU from the boot replaced the cap that was leaking (C35) also did 2 others next to it while I was at it. I thought I had fixed it but on a quick test run up the road pulled over, switch off then on again and the light is back on and get the same symptoms. Also checked connectors on the HICAS motor @ the rear diff - cleaned with contact cleaner. Again no fix Its been fine until today where I noticed it for the first time ever. Battery has been swapped out, upgraded the power and earth cables ect(needed a new batt anyway) - this was done before I replaced the caps as above no fix. Prior I put a earthing kit in the engine bay - which is the only large change to the electrics system. Prior to that the dash was out for a heater core but at the time It didn't have issues (a few quick stop and starts while bleeding air ect). From my limited knowledge of electrics - it definatley seems related to power. Exactly where the issue is has got me. Thinking the rain while driving this morning, but have been driving in rain for the past 3 weeks and never noticed it. I'll look around the engine bay tommrow, then to the steering position sensor behind the steering wheel. Also hunting a stock ECU for diagnostics. EDIT: Forgot to mention the car, 94 R33 S1 GTS-T. Only owned it for 6mths but the HICAS system has been serviced - to my knowledge by a Redcliffe company (Brad steering, brake something.)

thanks simpletool, did mine today after finding a massive split in 14056NB piece [source of all my water loss] . Such a pos job pulling the intake manifold off though. I think you also need a piece with a 90deg. of 1/2" for the top outlet oil cooler (weird device ontop of the oil filter) to the T piece above the starter. I got away with a normal piece of 1/2" adding one of those spring clips to the bend to stop it collapsing. Also grab yourself some PBR Rubbber grease, it really helps when trying to get a stubborn pipe on and also that small section behind the head for the turbo water feed. While your at it I would also replace all the clips with worm clamps and use a socket to do them up(alot easier than struggling with a screw driver).

tighten them up starting with the alternator belt. I had really had squealing from my belts and tried to sys out which one it was, dropping the revs with the clutch and brake stops it aswell for some reason, with the aircon off the only thing I could think off having load is the alternator, tightened her up and sqeal begone . Don't over tighten it though. I've got new belts on mine and didn't know wtf was causing the squealing (prev owner did belts before purchase).

Hi guys, Picked up a 94' R33 GTST about a month ago. Its slightly modified putting out around 220rwKw, high flow std turbo, pfc, splitfires ect. Its incredible fun and a massive jump from the Hyundai Excel haha, surprised how easy it is to drive. Drives and idles along beautifully thanks to a few DIY's Not sure on future power mods, because it'll be pushing stock internals a little too far . Needs some suspension work though, having 1 half rooted rear shock = fun. I'm up in Rockhampton, not sure many cruises happen around here but hopefully I'll join one haha.